Fuse to tap dashcam?

[Jeka]

So my local car audio shop hardwired my dashcam, radar detector, and USB Type C charger in my Expedition on switched fuse #37 (heated steering wheel). All of the hardwire units work great without any issues, however now my steering wheel is intermittent. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes it doesn't work at all, and sometimes it will work fine initially, then shut off.

Anybody either experienced this before or have any idea what might be causing this?

Disclaimer - I am not a car mechanic, electrical engineer or anything like that - just a weekend enthusiast.
For me it sounds like poor cable connection; or voltage drops - but it’s usually car battery/alternator issue and should affect other systems as well.
I connected my dashcam battery packs to fuse #37 - everything is good for almost two years now. Those battery packs draw more power than any dashcam, radar detector and USB-C 100watt device all together.
So I would say something is not right in your setup. Take it back to the shop.

 

[Lou Hamilton]

UPDATE:

My dash cam has parking mode so I had to use two fuses -- one for ACC for for BATTery.

I ended up using the #16 (Tailgate Release) for my BATTery and #37 (Heated Steering Wheel) for my ACC power. Everything seems to be working fine after about two days. LOL.

Hope this helps others.

 

[Shaffer9]

I installed a dashcam last night by tapping into the power behind the mirror as detailed in the radar detector forum. I have the ROAV S1 and used this cable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFRWC3X/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_safuEbMKNJ0EX

So far it seems to do the job and was a very easy install. Cant even see it from the drivers seat (blocked by mirror), which was desired.

 

[Molaf]

I installed a dashcam last night by tapping into the power behind the mirror as detailed in the radar detector forum. I have the ROAV S1 and used this cable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFRWC3X/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_safuEbMKNJ0EX

So far it seems to do the job and was a very easy install. Cant even see it from the drivers seat (blocked by mirror), which was desired.
View attachment 34581 View attachment 34582

Link to forum for steps on how to do this? Looks awesome btw! I have a very similar dashcam like yours so I'm happy to see that it can be tapped right into the mirror.

 

[Calidad]

Dash cameras are low power the powered mirror tap is the best approach in pretty much all vehicles today. Non powered mirrors like my old Toyota I simply tapped into the sunroof power also right there by the mirror.

 

[Shaffer9]

Link to forum for steps on how to do this? Looks awesome btw! I have a very similar dashcam like yours so I'm happy to see that it can be tapped right into the mirror.

https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/radar-detector-mirror-wiring.36557/

 

[Shaffer9]

I bought a right angle micro usb adapter to make it a little bit cleaner looking, but the connector on the one I bought was a little too thick to plug in. So I'll just let it run like this for a little bit.

 

[Molaf]

https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/radar-detector-mirror-wiring.36557/

Thanks! Getting the adapter tomorrow. I'm glad I found this thread. I was not look forward to running a long usb cable through headliner, A pillar, glove box, and finally to center console lol(I did this on my F-150).

 

[Molaf]

I bought a right angle micro usb adapter to make it a little bit cleaner looking, but the connector on the one I bought was a little too thick to plug in. So I'll just let it run like this for a little bit.

Just wanted to update that I got this earlier in the week. Took 5 minutes to install. Runs flawlessly and the only part that's peaking out from the mirror cover is the USB connector itself. Might cut a small hole in the side of the car in the future so it's a flush fit. Anyways, thanks again @Shaffer9!

 

[StealthyBulldog]

UPDATE:

My dash cam has parking mode so I had to use two fuses -- one for ACC for for BATTery.

I ended up using the #16 (Tailgate Release) for my BATTery and #37 (Heated Steering Wheel) for my ACC power. Everything seems to be working fine after about two days. LOL.

Hope this helps others.

Hi Lou, is everything still working good with those fuse choices? I'm looking at installing a Blackvue 900S with the Power Magic Pro and it need both constant and switched. Thanks!

 

[Lou Hamilton]

Hi Lou, is everything still working good with those fuse choices? I'm looking at installing a Blackvue 900S with the Power Magic Pro and it need both constant and switched. Thanks!

Yes. No issues at all. I just used my heated steering wheel the other day and it worked as did the camera.

I would recommend those two fuses to anyone looking for the fuse box method versus the mirror tap.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Dice Roll]

My fuse tap to the heated wheel hasn’t worked out. I’ve got the keyed power I need for the dvd. Now the wheel doesn’t heat up. Light comes on the button and also the icon on the infotainment comes on.

but no wheel heat at all, not intermittent. I read some on this and haven’t tried anything yet, but one thing I saw was to use the same size fuse for both places on the fuse tap. Leaves you open to problem if dvd pulls more amps though since it takes like 5 and. It the 20 for the wheel.

other thing might be polarity of the fusetap is wrong. Not sure on that, and not sure it would fit in the Sides of fuse box turned over.

 

[Dice Roll]

Anybody else have problems getting the wheel heat to work when tapping that Fuse? I have my DVD players working fine, but the wheel heat won’t come on. I do get the button light and the dash icon for the wheel when I push it though.

 

[Lou Hamilton]

I use the heated steering wheel fuse location with my dash cam. I am using a fuse tap that came with the dash cam “kit”. If I remember, I will post a pic of how it is connected tomorrow.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Tocapet]

Some dashcams run off 5 volts. The adapter is in the plug that goes into your cig lighter. If you have a USB in your expy, that will give you 5 volts.

 

[StealthyBulldog]

Finally took a couple pics of my setup, forgot to take pictures of the fuse taps, but used the same as @Lou Hamilton , been installed for almost 3 months now, no problems. Heated wheel still works. It's a Blackvue DR900S, with the Blendmount mounting attachment. I also installed the Blackvue Power Magic Pro hardwired kit. Mounted the box in the passenger foot well (right above where their feet are directly below the glove box) not visible, still accessible. Here's a few pics

 

[5280tunage]

For future sake, I used one of these kits. you have to pay very close attention to securing the taps, and they are made of such hi gauge wire they are quite brittle, but once you get them in place and secure them with a zip tie, they work great. I have mine connected to both a radar detector and a dash cam. The dash cam, since it operates on USB at 5V's, I had to use a 12V to 5V convertor from the manufacturer, which I simply attached to the windshield in the blackout region with double sided tape. The radar detector is 12V, with a direct RJ11 connection, so it was pretty simple. Both work great and are on a switched circuit, making it nice and easy. They have different wire kits for different uses as well.

ESCORT,Passport IX Radar Detector Direct Mirror Power Cord (MP-ESCT) | eBay

 

[thepennster]

Yes. No issues at all. I just used my heated steering wheel the other day and it worked as did the camera.

I would recommend those two fuses to anyone looking for the fuse box method versus the mirror tap.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I know this is an old thread, but wanted to thank you for identifying #16 for constant power. I'm a little late to the dashcam game, but I am glad I cam across your post. Quick question - I ended up getting the same camera that you did, and the fuse tap kit came with a 20A fuse. #16 is 15A, and my understanding is that the fuse going to the camera has to be smaller than the original fuse. What size fuse did you end up putting in for the camera? I read 5A should be enough, but wanted to make sure.

 

[username]

I know this is an old thread, but wanted to thank you for identifying #16 for constant power. I'm a little late to the dashcam game, but I am glad I cam across your post. Quick question - I ended up getting the same camera that you did, and the fuse tap kit came with a 20A fuse. #16 is 15A, and my understanding is that the fuse going to the camera has to be smaller than the original fuse. What size fuse did you end up putting in for the camera? I read 5A should be enough, but wanted to make sure.

It may be an older thread but I found it useful as well. I used #37 for accessory but had to use #29 for constant power as my trim doesn't use #16. From what I read, a 5A should be more than enough - I actually see some recommend as low as 1A or 2A fuses.

 

[Fastcar]

I've mounted radar detectors under my mirror for years. There is plenty of room to tie in a fuse using an invisa wires. Use a meter to grab a hot side of a interior light above the mirror and there ya go. No need to run back to the box.