How to install a real oil pressure gauge in a 5.4 (with pictures)

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07navi

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I tried to hook it up directly to the engine but couldn't find the right adapter. The only sandwich adapter that you will want is the one with all 1/8" NPT ports. Most of them come with oil cooler ports that you will have to block off and 1 NPT.

The sleeve in the stock mount stays in there and it has a 22mm x 1.5 thread. The sandwich sleeve takes a 26MM or 1" socket. The sender has a 1/8" NPT, most do.
sender.jpg
Run 8' of wire up through the firewall from the sender. Pry the center out of the large grommet on the far left, take a sharp punch with grease also and poke a hole in the rubber membrane behind it. Tape the wire onto a clothes hanger and push it through the hole.
firewall.jpg
Find a fuse in the box by the passengers right foot that is hot when the key is on, cram a wire in next to it (no need to buy special piggyback fuses), and run the wire to the driver side.
fuse.jpg
The gauge light only lights when the key is on.(that fitting is the one that didn't work originally and not part of this)
ga1.jpg
Trace around the bottom of the plastic dash cover at the bottom so you can locate the gauge mounting area. I used self tapping screws here.
dash-nav.jpg
It works fine and there is plenty of leg room plus the original one still works and it is inconspicuous . I could only load 5 files here which jumbled up the whole thread but they are all in now. The one with a bunch of fittings was part of my first attempt.

 
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Sunflowergirl

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I tried to hook it up directly to the engine but couldn't find the right adapter. The only sandwich adapter that you will want is the one with all 1/8" NPT ports. Most of them come with oil cooler ports that you will have to block off and 1 NPT.

The sleeve in the stock mount stays in there and it has a 22mm x 1.5 thread. The sandwich sleeve takes a 26MM or 1" socket. The sender has a 1/8" NPT, most do.
View attachment 37768
Run 8' of wire up through the firewall from the sender. Pry the center out of the large grommet on the far left, take a sharp punch with grease also and poke a hole in the rubber membrane behind it. Tape the wire onto a clothes hanger and push it through the hole.
View attachment 37769
Find a fuse in the box by the passengers right foot that is hot when the key is on, cram a wire in next to it (no need to buy special piggyback fuses), and run the wire to the driver side.
View attachment 37772
The gauge light only lights when the key is on.(that fitting is the one that didn't work originally and not part of this)
View attachment 37774
Trace around the bottom of the plastic dash cover at the bottom so you can locate the gauge mounting area. I used self tapping screws here.
View attachment 37776
It works fine and there is plenty of leg room plus the original one still works and it is inconspicuous . I could only load 5 files here which jumbled up the whole thread but they are all in now. The one with a bunch of fittings was part of my first attempt.
Just out of curiosity, why would you want one of these and why mount it where you’ll never see it and is a distraction to you while driving if you try to look at it? Is it really that important?
 
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07navi

07navi

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Just out of curiosity, why would you want one of these and why mount it where you’ll never see it and is a distraction to you while driving if you try to look at it? Is it really that important?
All I have to do is glance down at it for a split second while driving (very visible) and it is important on these engines due do low oil pressures killing them. The stock gauge only comes on at 10 or 12 psi but shows about 60 PSI. It is only an idiot light type switch, not a real gauge. This gauge will mainly tell you if you need a new oil pump or if your engine is completely worn out...........very good to have. I am glad to see that my engine has 50 PSI hot and in gear idling. Some people have them inside the console, it's not something you have to monitor. Looking at it once a week is 100 times better than not having one.
 
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sjwelds

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So if I understand correctly, you aren't using all the pipe fittings in the last picture? Cuz if you are I'd be really concerned with the pipe cracking or breaking with the weight of the sender hanging on it....

Also, just stuff a wire in alongside the fuse...... classic, just classic.
 
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07navi

07navi

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So if I understand correctly, you aren't using all the pipe fittings in the last picture? Cuz if you are I'd be really concerned with the pipe cracking or breaking with the weight of the sender hanging on it....

Also, just stuff a wire in alongside the fuse...... classic, just classic.
I just threw that in (it said it's part of my first attempt). I was concerned about a pipe cracking (originally) but I was going to fabricate a bracket to hold the sender firmly. The sandwich is probably a better idea anyway plus the stock gauge still works with it.
 
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07navi

07navi

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ohhh geez that's a safety hazard
interference with safe operation of gas pedal & brake
and the wire add ... why i never want a used vehicle

thanks for the info though, nice effort
The gauge is nowhere near my leg, totally safe. Plus there is just a wire to the fuse box and one to the the sender. I would rather buy a used car with a real gauge, you could have 10 PSI and not know it! Also with a hardwired gauge you could get a cab full of oil.
 
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