Looking for advice

[Cincykz]

I think I'll stick to gen 1s. I don't mind the solid axle and I did like the one I went to see. I might offer 3200 on it, even though I feel it's a little high. Hard to get clean body and solid rockers in nys (although this one is in pa).

What are the possibilities for a 4x4 issue giving me 4x4 when I should be in rwd operation?

 

[Plati]

Wish you the best of luck with your new (to you) Expy.

Not sure what your concern was with 4A or 4WD.
I dont think there should be a noticeable difference.

The steering thing, was it consistent through the turn or have spots where it was binding? A typical problem on an older Expy is the lower steering shaft knuckle binding.

Do people put a code reader on a vehicle before they buy it?
I've been using one this past year .. so I'd probably do that now.

Hopefully the tires & brakes are all good, a/c works, etc. Did you test the parking brake? Do all the doors lock/unlock, windows work ok, rear liftgate glass opens? 2 keys come with it? I've learned the hard way to check features before I buy. It's just a lot of work to do that. Plus if you find things wrong that gives you leverage to lower price. If stuff works and is fairly new (like tires/brakes) ... that can make the price a lot more attractive.

 

[Trainmaster]

Take a good look at the steering lines where they go into the steering box. I replaced the steering box on my 2000 several years ago when it had rusted so badly that it leaked. Also check the rear suspension links, they tend to rust along with the transmission cooler lines where they are bent near the radiator support. Rear brake lines above the fuel tank and of course the exhaust manifolds. That's about all my 2000 needed in 230,000 miles of New York winters.

The 2001's are Control-Trac all-time 4x4, though they shouldn't feel like it. Take a tight turn in A4WD and if the wheels feel like they are binding, you have a problem. Then put it in 4H and/or 4L and you should feel a big difference. At the price you are paying, which is about double the book price, you should not have a drivetrain problem.

Good luck with the truck. They are tough.

Here's the owner's manual:
https://justgivemethedamnmanual.com/ford/2001-ford-expedition-owners-manual/

 

[1955moose]

I'd wait a week or 2, go back to her if it's still available, she'll come down in price. Whatever vehicle you decide, yes run a code reader, and either you or a shop do a full inspection. If the seller won't agree, their hiding something. An honest individual will always allow for it. Try everything, heat, ac, seat operation, mirrors, etc. Bring a bright flashlight, and never look at one at night, unless in a well lit garage. Too much hides in the dark.

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[rjdelp7]

The seller has it priced in the ball park. $2800poor-$3800 excellent. I have owned a 2000 for 11 years. Here are a few things to check. Rear trailing arms, they rust out(Ford should of recalled them). Radiator core support, they rot in the corners. Body mounts in the front, same thing, hidden rust. Emergency brake(inspection time). Scan for 'pending' trouble codes. PO430 is a Cat, going bad. Does the AC work? Rear brake lines rot out and leak, near rear door. How is the driver seat, ripped/torn/wore out? When were the plugs changed? I always ask, "why are you selling?" and watch there face. People that are pulling a 'fast one', will have tells. Ask yourself, "how long will I keep this vehicle"? You will have to maintain it and put money into it. You don't want to throw too much money, into an old one. The 1st Gens are however excellent and long lasting. They easily go 200k and beyond. Mine makes the same power steering sounds and feels a little heavy, its normal. It has Auto/4x4. It engages when need. It will feel, at times it is engaged, but its normal. I pull the electric clutch fuse, to disable in the summer. I bet a dealer, wouldn't even take it for a trade or is offering $500. There are also, not many buyers on Craigslist, looking for one. Pick it apart and offer $2500firm and buy it. Remind the seller the things, I mentioned.

 

[cobalt46]

I have a 2001 EB 4X4. Before you buy look underneath the body. Just about everything will be rusting away.

 

[1955moose]

Depends on what part of the country, and how it was waxed, and cared for. But yeah mid west and east coast ones need a second look. Shame Ford couldn't have done a better job on rust prevention.

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[rjdelp7]

wax

Depends on what part of the country, and how it was waxed, and cared for. But yeah mid west and east coast ones need a second look. Shame Ford couldn't have done a better job on rust prevention.

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Waxing? The undercarriage has almost no protection. A couple hundred dollars of plastic splash shields, better materials and coatings are needed. Toyota, factory undercoats. Ford does not want there vehicles lasting 20 years, in 'new condition'. They want people to buy new ones.

 

[1955moose]

True, but you can up the anty by spraying or manual application of anti corrosion gunk to parts. For those that live in the snow/salt belts, a good spraying of water to clear salt/snow will do wonders. Used to tell my wife to spray down her 74 Celica to get rid of salt when we lived 1 1/4 miles from the beach, but did she listen? No! Car rusted up in 3 short years. Silver was a bad color for Toyota's in the 70's, rusted and faded quicker than others. A quick blast of the garden hose goes a long way.

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