Looking for advice

[Cincykz]

Hey all, I don't have an Expedition yet and am between that or an excursion. I was leaning towards a later model IRS expedition but found a pretty clean bodied 2001 EB 4x4, although it's 3 hours away. I went and drove it and had mixed feelings. Body/undercarriage was very good for 18 years old in the north east. 125k
Interior nice.

My concerns:
Seemed to be a little rough at idle, mostly when stopped in D. I know my town car did a similar thing and a couple of coils cleared it up. Power seemed fine when moving.

Steering seemed a little hard, made a quiet protesting sound (not a squeal).

Felt like it was in 4x4 the whole time to me. 72 out and dry. Rode nice, drove straight.

A tiny bit of rust on one wheel well under the trim, and some corrosion at the leading edge of the hood.

I've never driven a gen 1 expy before. Price is 3500. Part of me wants it, part of me is worried it will be a nightmare. Steering/ 4x4 feeling normal or a likely problem?

Thanks for any insight guys.

 

[Plati]

Sounds like you know more than I do!

although ... $3500 sounds a bit high for that vintage in NYS?

i can tell you one thing
there WILL be things that fail, even if it was perfect right now
plan on $800/year (average) MINIMUM maintenance cost
and thats just for routine stuff (not incl tires/brakes)

IMHO

 

[1955moose]

Well as all the regulars here know, I drive a 2000 Eddie Bauer, essentially the same SUV. Looking through my past records, Im coming up on 4 years this month. Past used car Dodge dealer replaced my Steering box. My Suv had just 64k showing when I bought it 4 years back. Within 5 months after purchase had to replace idler arm, pitman arm. New steering box had to be adjusted by me about 10 months back. My steering is heavier since I adjusted it. I'd pay someone to do a full inspection, especially the front end. And yes he's priced a bit high, $2700-$3000 is where price should be, especially since some front end work is definitely needed. As far as $800.00 per year maintenance, only stuff I do is oil change every 5-6k Mobil 1, trans service every 3 years or 30k for me. Other than that I rotate tires. My Ford brake pads are over 30k, and still have 40 percent left. If you drive these trucks easy like I do, and not like you stole it, they last a long time. One last item for you or mechanic to check is leaking oil at head gaskets. If leaking, work that into price. The owner knows these are good SUVs but a little tough to move used. Good luck.

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[Plati]

Would be interested to hear what others regular maintenance costs are for a 2000 vintage Expy. Wheel hubs, fuel pump, rear wiper parts, suspension parts, window regulators, air conditioning, Junction boxes, parking brakes, vacuum hoses, plugs & cops, fluid changes, battery, blend motor, alternator, fuel & brake lines, calipers, belt & idler pulley, alternator, lower steering shaft, high pressure steering hose, u-joints, etc. all go bad in NYS which is a tough environment on vehicles. I've never heard a water pump problem though!

You can have a good year or two or 4 but it catches up with you just like homeowner costs do. Roof, water heater, appliances ...

AND ... do you do all work yourself or hire somebody ...
.... big difference in cost.

MrTrainMaster ... whats you number? or numbers?

 

[Cincykz]

Thanks for the info folks. I think she's pretty set at $3400, I might just look for a newer one. I'm sure people fall both ways on this and I can bet it's been beaten to death, given similar miles/condition, would you say more or less trouble from a gen II+ or the original?

 

[1955moose]

Definitely more on the 2nd, especially 05-07. Read up on those years. Anytime you buy a used vehicle theirs always going to be problems. The only way to get around that is buy new, take the bus, or buy a bicycle. Used cars are a crapshoot, even when meticulously maintained. I've always had best luck with low mileage cars/trucks. The Expedition had 64k on a 15 yr old vehicle, my 84 Lincoln, had 55k, and was 12 years old. It went 17 years, a water pump, timing chain/gears due to plastic gears were the only major things. Some here say higher mileage examples are better, but personally I like to pile on the miles, not totally rebuild someone else's mess.

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[Cincykz]

Sorry, second gen is more reliable? Wasn't 100% sure which you were saying. I've gotten good service out of quite a few hard run 4.6 2v engines. I figured that hopefully the 5.4 would give similar service. Probably more worried about the rest of the truck...

 

[Trainmaster]

That price is way too high. Keep shopping.

 

[1955moose]

Some like the early second gens the best 2003/04. Supposedly they fixed the leaky head gaskets, put more threads on the cylinder heads for spark plugs. Fuse box resoldered is only real issue, but an easy fix. Late 07 on up is best bet for the 24 valve motor. Best advice, look for clean outside examples, watch for rust, especially around door rockers, radiator support, and on roof. The service records are real important. Especially oil changes. Good luck in your search. Dry climates like around Arizona or Bay area are usually cleaner examples as far as rust.

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[Cincykz]

Thanks for the input. Yeah I think 3400 is high, I guess I was just mesmerized by a 99% rust free body, being from Syracuse area where cars rot through in 10 yrs. I'll keep looking... I'd like a 3v/6sp, but it'd have to be a pretty good deal...

 

[Cincykz]

I think I'll stick to gen 1s. I don't mind the solid axle and I did like the one I went to see. I might offer 3200 on it, even though I feel it's a little high. Hard to get clean body and solid rockers in nys (although this one is in pa).

What are the possibilities for a 4x4 issue giving me 4x4 when I should be in rwd operation?

 

[Plati]

Wish you the best of luck with your new (to you) Expy.

Not sure what your concern was with 4A or 4WD.
I dont think there should be a noticeable difference.

The steering thing, was it consistent through the turn or have spots where it was binding? A typical problem on an older Expy is the lower steering shaft knuckle binding.

Do people put a code reader on a vehicle before they buy it?
I've been using one this past year .. so I'd probably do that now.

Hopefully the tires & brakes are all good, a/c works, etc. Did you test the parking brake? Do all the doors lock/unlock, windows work ok, rear liftgate glass opens? 2 keys come with it? I've learned the hard way to check features before I buy. It's just a lot of work to do that. Plus if you find things wrong that gives you leverage to lower price. If stuff works and is fairly new (like tires/brakes) ... that can make the price a lot more attractive.

 

[Trainmaster]

Take a good look at the steering lines where they go into the steering box. I replaced the steering box on my 2000 several years ago when it had rusted so badly that it leaked. Also check the rear suspension links, they tend to rust along with the transmission cooler lines where they are bent near the radiator support. Rear brake lines above the fuel tank and of course the exhaust manifolds. That's about all my 2000 needed in 230,000 miles of New York winters.

The 2001's are Control-Trac all-time 4x4, though they shouldn't feel like it. Take a tight turn in A4WD and if the wheels feel like they are binding, you have a problem. Then put it in 4H and/or 4L and you should feel a big difference. At the price you are paying, which is about double the book price, you should not have a drivetrain problem.

Good luck with the truck. They are tough.

Here's the owner's manual:
https://justgivemethedamnmanual.com/ford/2001-ford-expedition-owners-manual/

 

[1955moose]

I'd wait a week or 2, go back to her if it's still available, she'll come down in price. Whatever vehicle you decide, yes run a code reader, and either you or a shop do a full inspection. If the seller won't agree, their hiding something. An honest individual will always allow for it. Try everything, heat, ac, seat operation, mirrors, etc. Bring a bright flashlight, and never look at one at night, unless in a well lit garage. Too much hides in the dark.

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[rjdelp7]

The seller has it priced in the ball park. $2800poor-$3800 excellent. I have owned a 2000 for 11 years. Here are a few things to check. Rear trailing arms, they rust out(Ford should of recalled them). Radiator core support, they rot in the corners. Body mounts in the front, same thing, hidden rust. Emergency brake(inspection time). Scan for 'pending' trouble codes. PO430 is a Cat, going bad. Does the AC work? Rear brake lines rot out and leak, near rear door. How is the driver seat, ripped/torn/wore out? When were the plugs changed? I always ask, "why are you selling?" and watch there face. People that are pulling a 'fast one', will have tells. Ask yourself, "how long will I keep this vehicle"? You will have to maintain it and put money into it. You don't want to throw too much money, into an old one. The 1st Gens are however excellent and long lasting. They easily go 200k and beyond. Mine makes the same power steering sounds and feels a little heavy, its normal. It has Auto/4x4. It engages when need. It will feel, at times it is engaged, but its normal. I pull the electric clutch fuse, to disable in the summer. I bet a dealer, wouldn't even take it for a trade or is offering $500. There are also, not many buyers on Craigslist, looking for one. Pick it apart and offer $2500firm and buy it. Remind the seller the things, I mentioned.

 

[cobalt46]

I have a 2001 EB 4X4. Before you buy look underneath the body. Just about everything will be rusting away.

 

[1955moose]

Depends on what part of the country, and how it was waxed, and cared for. But yeah mid west and east coast ones need a second look. Shame Ford couldn't have done a better job on rust prevention.

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[rjdelp7]

wax

Depends on what part of the country, and how it was waxed, and cared for. But yeah mid west and east coast ones need a second look. Shame Ford couldn't have done a better job on rust prevention.

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Waxing? The undercarriage has almost no protection. A couple hundred dollars of plastic splash shields, better materials and coatings are needed. Toyota, factory undercoats. Ford does not want there vehicles lasting 20 years, in 'new condition'. They want people to buy new ones.

 

[1955moose]

True, but you can up the anty by spraying or manual application of anti corrosion gunk to parts. For those that live in the snow/salt belts, a good spraying of water to clear salt/snow will do wonders. Used to tell my wife to spray down her 74 Celica to get rid of salt when we lived 1 1/4 miles from the beach, but did she listen? No! Car rusted up in 3 short years. Silver was a bad color for Toyota's in the 70's, rusted and faded quicker than others. A quick blast of the garden hose goes a long way.

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