LOW profile rooftop rack

[Fozzy]

For those looking to mount a bunch of lights and or accessories, this seems like a good option for minimizing switch clutter. Also offers some strobe functions if you want to be clever "off road"...


https://www.thepublicsafetystore.com/c-4010-feniex-4200-mini-controller.html

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I went Switch-Pro. If you get it let us know how it works out.


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[Tys expedition]

id love to see your switch pro install photos when you get it done. im also looking to go arb style rack. im planning to take my bars stock bars off and make some feet that match the factory holes. but haven't started down this rabbit hole yet. after my first trip in the expi i know i need a roof rack. i have an arb on my 4runner that I've really liked so i think ill go that route again. im thinking something along the touring line

 

[Fozzy]

id love to see your switch pro install photos when you get it done. im also looking to go arb style rack. im planning to take my bars stock bars off and make some feet that match the factory holes. but haven't started down this rabbit hole yet. after my first trip in the expi i know i need a roof rack. i have an arb on my 4runner that I've really liked so i think ill go that route again. im thinking something along the touring line

I ordered one of these mounts to see if I can modify it to hold the controller. I am torn where to put it. I have also seen a mount for the Raptor that uses the sunglass holder, but I think the Expys are different than the F-150’s with the baby mirror.



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[Shaffer9]

https://www.gobiracks.com/product/g-wagon-stealth-rack/
I'd be interested to see how this spaced out on top of an expy/nav. It's 88 x 54 so seems like decent dimensions to possibly fit. Would have to address the mounting feet.

 

[Fozzy]

So I got a good start on my roof wiring project. I have had a few ask about the Switch-Pros. The original pre wired switch was the Spod. It uses relays and fuses but had everything was pre wired. Mainly for Jeeps. The SP has a small panel with 8 switches and one control wire. It is all solid state. No relays or fuses. You have 4-20 amp and 4-35 amp circuits. You can actually program the fuse settings, delay, on/off, momentary, dim,strobe, flash or even combine one button to turn everything on. It also has 2 trigger wires for high beams, revere signal or what ever you can dream off. It’s Bluetooth and you program and can control the lights from your phone. It runs about $550.00 at any distributor. So it is a good bang for your money. If I was to do it again I would try the Spod Bantam with the touch screen controller. It is now solid state as well but a lot more money. The box is huge compared to the SP. But it has a place to land all the ground cables and wires. The SP just had wires you splice into and ground to the frame.


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[Fozzy]

After all the mounting ideas I ended up putting the buttons by the brake controller with a short RAM Mount.





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[Fozzy]

I bought the SDHQ F-150 Switch-Pros under hood mount to hold the control module. It was not a perfect fit. I had to put a small bend in the plate to catch the fender mounting location. The firewall is the same but the fender is different. No big deal. I just forced it in and got all the bolts started then sucked it down.



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[Fozzy]

I ran 2-4 wire 12AWG to the roof. I went across the engine compartment to the drivers side and fallowed the trailer brake wires to the back of the vehicle. One loom holds both the power cables. The other holds the control wire and A-pillar light wires.





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[Fozzy]

There is a gap between the tail light and bumper cover. I ran the wires up through the gap and behind the weather stripping. There wasn’t enough room for both wires to be ran together at the bottom of the opening. I separated them until I was past the trim piece mount and past the lift ram for the tailgate. I put a bend in the cables and sheath on them as they left the tailgate. There is a split in the rubber piece at the top. The tailgate opens and closes fine and this does not affect the main tailgate seal. I left plenty of slack so the cable moves with the tailgate.








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[Fozzy]

Years ago I invested in a complete Weather Pack Kit. It’s so nice and convenient to make your own plugs. I was going to make a couple of plugs so I can take the rack off with all the lights still wired. I couldn’t find a good ground or even a place it is easily accessible on the roof. I used 2 of the wires for ground straight from the battery and ended up putting a trailer wiring box on the roof. This may be temporary. Once I get all the lights how I want them on the roof I may still do a plug but the ground will still be an issue.





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[Fozzy]

I still have more lights to add and still wanting to try the KC Gravity Pro 6 roof bar. I love the looks but do not want anymore noise from the roof. Any better ideas out there for lights and wiring let me know. So far it has been pretty solid and clean set up.





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[Artie]

I still have more lights to add and still wanting to try the KC Gravity Pro 6 roof bar. I love the looks but do not want anymore noise from the roof. Any better ideas out there for lights and wiring let me know. So far it has been pretty solid and clean set up.





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That’s clean AF, nice!

 

[AKentPhoto]

Wow,
Great work!! Super clean install... Thank you for answering my question about the mounting plate. Did the loom come with the kit or did you have to buy it separate?

Honestly if it were me I'd put the brightest thing you can find in the bumper and see if you still want more. If my memory serves those pro rigs are bright as hell but are not the quietest. Your insulated windshield will help with the noise though... I had a single 40in BD on my raptor and it was plllllleeeeeenty of light. All my other lights disappeared. Down the road I have 4 Lightforce HIDs in storage I want to mount on a removable mount of some kind. Do you have the rack lights set to come on with the reverse lights?

I'm thinking while I'm doing the switchpro it would be nice to have it wired to its own battery. I found a 2k inverter on another forum cheap so having to not worry about the starting battery would be nice. Doesn't seem too difficult with one of these isolators... Amazon Link and one of these battery boxes. Long or Wide. This isolator even comes with the jump start button if the starter battery should need a boost. As long as you can cut your own cables it doesn't seem to difficult. Famous last words....

 

[Fozzy]

I got the loom on Amazon. I do not have the rear lights hooked to the reverse lights. They are way to bright and high. It would make a lot of people mad I think. Main reason for the rear lights and the whip is for boating season. We always pull off the lake at night. We will use the lights to wipe down the boat in the dark. The whip is for my wife. I fight the a-holes on the ramp and can help her guid the boat in. She’s pretty good at getting it off and on the trailer. But we went up from a 21’ to a 24’ and she loses sight of the truck and trailer a few trailer length away. I put the whip up and she can still see the center line and knows that’s the back of the truck. Works in the day as well with the flag. Dune season the whip is a novelty item and then loading lights as well. I am liking the idea of not having a bar on the roof and have a real good one in the bumper. I’m scared of the dark. [emoji12]


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[LGE_CTS_motors]

Here's a little teaser of what we have going...

 

[Shaffer9]

Here's a little teaser of what we have going...

View attachment 36348

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@LGE_CTS_motors Glad you guys are in here! I have been planning to have forum member spam you with requests for the roof rack! Hahaha in this same thread I showed everyone multiple examples of expeditions with your roof rack and bumpers. Saw the bumper was available on your site and hoping the roof rack follows.

 

[LGE_CTS_motors]

I got the loom on Amazon. I do not have the rear lights hooked to the reverse lights. They are way to bright and high. It would make a lot of people mad I think. Main reason for the rear lights and the whip is for boating season. We always pull off the lake at night. We will use the lights to wipe down the boat in the dark. The whip is for my wife. I fight the a-holes on the ramp and can help her guid the boat in. She’s pretty good at getting it off and on the trailer. But we went up from a 21’ to a 24’ and she loses sight of the truck and trailer a few trailer length away. I put the whip up and she can still see the center line and knows that’s the back of the truck. Works in the day as well with the flag. Dune season the whip is a novelty item and then loading lights as well. I am liking the idea of not having a bar on the roof and have a real good one in the bumper. I’m scared of the dark. [emoji12]


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@LGE_CTS_motors Glad you guys are in here! I have been planning to have forum member spam you with requests for the roof rack! Hahaha in this same thread I showed everyone multiple examples of expeditions with your roof rack and bumpers. Saw the bumper was available on your site and hoping the roof rack follows.

Stay posted to see what we have in store... its going to be huge for this community.....

 

[joethefordguy]

A badass would mount a spare tire on top of the hood

thanks for the idea! I've been meaning to move my spare out from under to make room for an aux fuel tank.

 

[Artie]

Stay posted to see what we have in store... its going to be huge for this community.....

Don’t forget us Navigator owners. I know not many will want to spec out anything crazy but I’d really like some skid plates for mine.

 

[Fozzy]

Stay posted to see what we have in store... its going to be huge for this community.....

My wish list. 6” lift, flares, skid bumpers front and rear, rack. [emoji1695]


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