MY 08 EL EDDIE BAUER SUSPENSION IS STIFF AS A BOARD - REPLACED WITH STANDARD ABOUT 18 MONTHS AGO

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Thunderbirdsport

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I know it's not really relevant to your case, my '11 XLT EL had quickstruts on the back, OEM shocks/springs front. I replaced the struts with Bilsteins (front & rear) and for the time being, have the springs out back from the quick struts. I've a set of Moog rear springs ready to go on, I was chasing a no-start issue so the springs weren't much of a priority, LOL.

Point is, the existing rear spring seem too soft, floaty, and the front sits a bit higher. I do have a Readylift 3/2 leveling kit, but I'm gonna be swapping rear springs ASAP.

I don't mine a bit rougher ride, but, if you'd like, I could grab the calipers and measure the coil dia of my fronts...I have no clue if an EB would have thicker coils, more coils, or the springs are the same. But, it may be something for you to ballpark. Mine rides pretty cushy, to me, anyhow. If you were closer, I'd let you take mine for a spin to gauge your ride harshness by..
 

Machete

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Agree w previous posts. You got used to worn out ride.
 
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panama

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I know it's not really relevant to your case, my '11 XLT EL had quickstruts on the back, OEM shocks/springs front. I replaced the struts with Bilsteins (front & rear) and for the time being, have the springs out back from the quick struts. I've a set of Moog rear springs ready to go on, I was chasing a no-start issue so the springs weren't much of a priority, LOL.

Point is, the existing rear spring seem too soft, floaty, and the front sits a bit higher. I do have a Readylift 3/2 leveling kit, but I'm gonna be swapping rear springs ASAP.

I don't mine a bit rougher ride, but, if you'd like, I could grab the calipers and measure the coil dia of my fronts...I have no clue if an EB would have thicker coils, more coils, or the springs are the same. But, it may be something for you to ballpark. Mine rides pretty cushy, to me, anyhow. If you were closer, I'd let you take mine for a spin to gauge your ride harshness by..
Thunderbird, measuring the front would be of great help to me. At least I would know what I'm looking for. I've turned to Ebay for used OEM coils to at least get the original ride back besides the lowrider feel I have now in this gigantic 2.5 ton vehicle. thanks for the assist....
 

tommyddsr

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Detroit Axle makes really nice OEM equivalent parts and they are made in USA. I have used them a few times.
 

Jst ROM

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To the OP:

I have an 08 Expy Limited (not an EL), mostly stock with minimal upgrades. I changed all 4 of my strut assembly to Moog (4, @$725.00 | installation: $800.00 | total: $1,525.00), then OEM at around 200K miles. If you are getting a harsh ride than that smooth ride that Expy's are known for, I too had a similar situation on my truck. Check your body bushings there are 8 under your belly. Most of the time you'll only need to replace the main 4 in the middle. If that's your problem get the body bushings from Dorman's the OEMs don't last very long, if you want them to last longer than your truck you'll need to cross-reference Ford F150's to get polyurethane. Good luck.
 
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To the OP:

I have an 08 Expy Limited (not an EL), mostly stock with minimal upgrades. I changed all 4 of my strut assembly to Moog (4, @$725.00 | installation: $800.00 | total: $1,525.00), then OEM at around 200K miles. If you are getting a harsh ride than that smooth ride that Expy's are known for, I too had a similar situation on my truck. Check your body bushings there are 8 under your belly. Most of the time you'll only need to replace the main 4 in the middle. If that's your problem get the body bushings from Dorman's the OEMs don't last very long, if you want them to last longer than your truck you'll need to cross-reference Ford F150's to get polyurethane. Good luck.
Got it...thanks.....
 

Kevin08

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Following this thread to see what is decided on to be the OEM comparable smooth ride.
But I also would like to know affordable options to lower my Expedition and still have a smooth ride? Transmission hasn’t swapped yet, about to start yesterday and the temps have dropped here again. Only thing I know for certain is this truck is too high for me to get up into. It’s 2WD. Previous owner had the rear air suspension swapped out for coil overs. Wish he’d left the solenoids in if that would have stopped the warning at every start up?
 
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Ride quality - it's not just your shocks and struts...

I'm not responsible for anyone getting killed/hurt or crushing or losing body parts during this procedure. I lost some knuckle skin myself..

Well, I found another culprit to the issue which I addressed last week......... body bushings/cab mounts, or whatever you want to call them.

While under my Expy a couple of weeks ago checking the transmission oil level which I serviced a few weeks ago, I happen to pull myself on my crawler by grabbing at what I felt was something solid and cool to the touch, my front-middle body bushing; the rubber that was supposed to be there crumbled in my hand like dry mud.

After checking my transmission fluid about 5 times for accuracy as the engine reached operating temperature and found that it was all ok, I turned my attention to the rest of the mid-section body bushings on both sides of the vehicle. The very front bushings on both sides just behind the front bumper were ok. The very last bushing just before the rear bumper was good as well. The two center bushings along with, what I would call the main bushing second from the very front bumper bushing were shot. That specific bushing has two 13mm bolts that hold them in place from the top. So you will know that you are working on the second body/cab bushings on either side... Remember, there are bushing closer to the front bumper that you'll need to loosen as well; maybe an inch or so...The bolts are about 2.5" long or longer.

I ordered the kit to replace the two body mid-section bushings and the main front bushing, second from the very front with the two 13mm top holding nuts. It's not an easy task to perform if you don't have access to a lift or a 3-4 ton jack or two.

I've attached the youtube video I found to be helpful below... Good luck..

 
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Machete

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Ride quality - it's not just your shocks and struts...

I'm not responsible for anyone getting killed/hurt or crushing or losing body parts during this procedure. I lost some knuckle skin myself..

Well, I found another culprit to the issue which I addressed last week......... body bushings/cab mounts, or whatever you want to call them.

While under my Expy a couple of weeks ago checking the transmission oil level which I serviced a few weeks ago, I happen to pull myself on my crawler by grabbing at what I felt was something solid and cool to the touch, my front-middle body bushing; the rubber that was supposed to be there crumbled in my hand like dry mud.

After checking my transmission fluid about 5 times for accuracy as the engine reached operating temperature and found that it was all ok, I turned my attention to the rest of the mid-section body bushings on both sides of the vehicle. The very front bushings on both sides just behind the front bumper were ok. The very last bushing just before the rear bumper was good as well. The two center bushings along with, what I would call the main bushing second from the very front bumper bushing were shot. That specific bushing has two 13mm bolts that hold them in place from the top. So you will know that you are working on the second body/cab bushings on either side... Remember, there are bushing closer to the front bumper that you'll need to loosen as well; maybe an inch or so...The bolts are about 2.5" long or longer.

I ordered the kit to replace the two body mid-section bushings and the main front bushing, second from the very front with the two 13mm top holding nuts. It's not an easy task to perform if you don't have access to a lift or a 3-4 ton jack or two.

I've attached the youtube video I found to be helpful below... Good luck..


What was the final effect? How much difference, if any, did it make?
How much better would it ride if all were replaced?

Looking to understand all the contributing factors to improving smoothness on these 1st gens.

I have the 4-corner Monroe coil over kit. I’m looking at getting Michelin’s, and these body mount bushings, and perhaps engine/tranny mounts replaced to get best results, or perhaps none at all?
 
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panama

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What was the final effect? How much difference, if any, did it make?
How much better would it ride if all were replaced?

Looking to understand all the contributing factors to improving smoothness on these 1st gens.

I have the 4-corner Monroe coil over kit. I’m looking at getting Michelin’s, and these body mount bushings, and perhaps engine/tranny mounts replaced to get best results, or perhaps none at all?
It made a huge difference in comfort. Going from basically no cushioning with worn/non-existing bushing to brand new bushings; immediately felt a big difference; even made me smile a bit, and I don’t smile very often.

The height change is immediately noticeable. In fact, after finishing the driver’s side, I place the truck back on the ground, as I’m absolutely fortunate to have access to a lift. The body lean was very noticeable with the newly installed bushing on the driver’s side.

I did not change the very front and last bushings as they where in good conditions. The middle three bushings where basically dirt, literally dirt that crumbled in my hands.

After looking at the video a few times, and getting over the floorboard warping concerns, the passenger side took less than two hours.

Please do not use an impact gun or ratchet as prescribed. The receiving nuts between the underbody and interior floorboard are not welded, they are held in with brackets that will loosen if you hit the bushing bolts with an impact. in fact, I had to drill through my interior floor board to get an extended socket through the floorboard to hold one of the nuts that broke lose, although I didn’t use any power tools. I patched up the hole with a rubber grommet and RTV once I got the bolt out and the new bushing in.

No noticeable issue so far. Make sure you have a tube of lock tight or whatever is called to smear on the bolts before reinstalling them.

A little penetrating oil/spray each bolt helps; I did that on my passenger side and it made the first breaking of the applied factory torque + umpteen years of crud a bit easier.

A breaker and bar/assistance by someone who doesn’t mind helping with “very slow pull and release, then pull and release” until the you get that bolt turning will make life a bit easier as well.

Take your time and also have a few Tylenols available afterward, your shoulders, elbows and arms are going to be on fire; those bolts are long and tight the entire way out and back in.
 
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