New to me 2007 EL LIMITED & all it's problems

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Ben Ford

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I bought a 2007 EL LIMITED and since buying it have discovered one problem after another. Mind you it has 175k miles...[emoji849]

There is a growling noise that gets louder as your speed increases and quiets as you slow down. So everything I know that tells me it's a wheel bear which means hi assembly. Bummer but ok. I plan on replacing that this weekend.

When braking the vehicle pulls to the left hard!! We'll that sucks cause the right caliper is bad.... Fixing that this weekend too... I was hoping that that was it. Nope!

All the lug nuts need to be replaced cause they have that crappy "tin foil sleeve" that makes it I'm possible to remove the lug nuts. So I have some new lug nuts on order thanks to another forum where a guy posted a link on Amazon to what seems by review a good set of lug nuts.

Then while driving it the first day after purchase what do y'all know!! The freaking check engine light comes on indicating P0171 and P0174. Bank 1 & 2 lean. So being the slick guy I am I look over all the vacuum lines and believe I find the culprit and replaced it[emoji16][emoji41]

But, the check engine light came back on same codes[emoji45]. So now I am inclined to think that the issue is the intake gaskets as they are prone to leak with high mileage...[emoji21][emoji26]

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GaryH2

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I bought a 2007 EL LIMITED and since buying it have discovered one problem after another. Mind you it has 175k miles...[emoji849]

There is a growling noise that gets louder as your speed increases and quiets as you slow down. So everything I know that tells me it's a wheel bear which means hi assembly. Bummer but ok. I plan on replacing that this weekend.

When braking the vehicle pulls to the left hard!! We'll that sucks cause the right caliper is bad.... Fixing that this weekend too... I was hoping that that was it. Nope!

All the lug nuts need to be replaced cause they have that crappy "tin foil sleeve" that makes it I'm possible to remove the lug nuts. So I have some new lug nuts on order thanks to another forum where a guy posted a link on Amazon to what seems by review a good set of lug nuts.

Then while driving it the first day after purchase what do y'all know!! The freaking check engine light comes on indicating P0171 and P0174. Bank 1 & 2 lean. So being the slick guy I am I look over all the vacuum lines and believe I find the culprit and replaced it[emoji16][emoji41]

But, the check engine light came back on same codes[emoji45]. So now I am inclined to think that the issue is the intake gaskets as they are prone to leak with high mileage...[emoji21][emoji26]

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I have similar miles and also have the growling/rubbing sound from the from end. I've also heard that it could be the solenoid partially engaging the hubs. I plan to try that before the IWE expense.

Regarding the braking, I had a similar problem too. It turned out to be the flex lines to the calipers. If you haven't, you might want to replace them.

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Ben Ford

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I have similar miles and also have the growling/rubbing sound from the from end. I've also heard that it could be the solenoid partially engaging the hubs. I plan to try that before the IWE expense.

Regarding the braking, I had a similar problem too. It turned out to be the flex lines to the calipers. If you haven't, you might want to replace them.

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I will absolutely replace the flex lines before the caliper!! Thanks!!!

I let you know how the growling noise goes!!

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GaryH2

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I will absolutely replace the flex lines before the caliper!! Thanks!!!

I let you know how the growling noise goes!!

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Likewise on the solenoid. It's a $30 part located on the radiator fan shroud of all places.

My 07 never stopped all that well until the lined were replaced. That made a huge difference. It's never brakes better at 195k miles!

My growling is intermittent, so it's difficult to sort out. I'm hoping I'm on the right track to sort that out.

Also, check the frame right behind the front wheels, at the base of the body there below the windshield. On the passenger side, it looks like the AC condenser outlet drips there and causes rust. I cleaned it up and coated with POR15, but it looked pretty bad. The corrosion looked like it was on the cover plate over the frame rails, not so much the frame itself.

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Ben Ford

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I failed to mention that it has a hard start. When you start it everytime after you shut it off it takes two or three cranks to start. I have come to the conclusion that the fuel pump check valve (that is part of the fuel pump assembly) is bad because the vehicle has no fuel pressure after shutting it off.... So there is that as well[emoji19]

And the air suspension compressor is very noisy when it starts[emoji58]. I suspect it's because the rubber grommets that mount the compressor and bracket are worn and need to be replaced[emoji848]. This too I will be replacing in the next week[emoji19]

And the last thing as of right now[emoji51] is the hydraulic arms for the glass on the lift gate are bad as the hydraulic fluid is leaking and the glass won't stay up. Not a big issue just more to add to the list my list of repairs!![emoji52]

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GaryH2

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I failed to mention that it has a hard start. When you start it everytime after you shut it off it takes two or three cranks to start. I have come to the conclusion that the fuel pump check valve (that is part of the fuel pump assembly) is bad because the vehicle has no fuel pressure after shutting it off.... So there is that as well[emoji19]

And the air suspension compressor is very noisy when it starts[emoji58]. I suspect it's because the rubber grommets that mount the compressor and bracket are worn and need to be replaced[emoji848]. This too I will be replacing in the next week[emoji19]

And the last thing as of right now[emoji51] is the hydraulic arms for the glass on the lift gate are bad as the hydraulic fluid is leaking and the glass won't stay up. Not a big issue just more to add to the list my list of repairs!![emoji52]

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I don't have those issues, but my hatch struts are looking some of their strength.

I also just replaced the sunroof seal. That was getting brittle.

It's been a great truck, but now it's got some of the issues your get with an older vehicle.

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East-TN

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Hopefully you got a good deal on the purchase...once you get it all sorted out, you’ll enjoy it.
 
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Ben Ford

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Makes a pre-purchase inspection at a mechanic of your choice seem pretty reasonably priced.
Maybe, the circumstances had a lot to do with the decision made to purchase. Older expedition, we we're leaving town the next day, small window to look and purchase. Just all the red flags that I ignored and know better. One of the better worse purchases I've made!!![emoji12]

If I had the time of day with the previous owner I would've taken it to a hobby shop and raised it up and inspected it thouroughly. Well lesson learned... Expensive lesson but, lesson learned...[emoji19]

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East-TN

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Price is subjective...they vary for a lot of reasons. It was worth it to the OP.
 
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Ben Ford

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Youch...verrrry expensive
I can understand why you say that because never would I pay so much with so many miles and need so many repairs.

But in reality getting an EL LIMITED with low mileage and in good order that is around $10k is very very difficult to find next to impossible. Especially with the right "look" that both you and your wife are agreeable. So for what I got I believed I was getting a deal. But because of all the issues. Really I paid what it's worth.

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Cooldog

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I will second the brake flex hose comments. Replaced my calipers, but still had dragging brakes. Replaced the hoses and it's like new now.


Last August I bought a 2010 Expedition EL XLT 4x4 with 172K on it, from a dealer up in northern New Jersey. It ran terribly when I went to test drive it, but the price was right $5,775, so I took it anyway. I limped home for 180 miles, barely able to maintain 65mph.

In the end, it had some bad coil packs, and the plugs looked like they had NEVER been changed; the gap was just shy of TWICE what it should have been.

The O2 sensor codes it was throwing turned out to be false too; a $99 ECM update fixed the problem. I was planning to do the 3X drain and fill for the ATF, but stopped after one (and the filter) because the fluid was clearly quite clean and fresh. The transfer case fluid was another story ... looked like it had never been changed.

It runs beautifully now. The only issue left is the usual paint problem on hood and tailgate. The hood is barely noticeable, but the tailgate needs attention.

I stole it!
 
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Ben Ford

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Anywho, just a minor update. I replaced the brakes hoses and a huge difference in braking.

I also replaced all the spark plugs and it looked like they had never been changed[emoji54]!! After doing so it started up and ran better immediately!! Then after a day or so it went back to long cranks.... I am sure it's a fuel pressure issue. I need to test it but I believe that one or a couple of the fuel injectors are an issue as there can be fuel leak pressure leak down with the injectors as the point of failure.

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stamp11127

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Cycle the ignition switch 2 or 3 times, for 3 seconds, to the run position before starting, that will prime the fuel rail until you are able to replace the pump.
 

Adieu

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I am super confused by this comment... How is $8,200 NEWER Navigator money? The going rate for NEWER is $20k+

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My '12 Navigator L cost me like 12.5k... lower miles, no check engine

I've seen 08 or 09 for $8 something
 
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