no start after heater core change

[lunchboxlust]

Well after the heater core change and h/o alt and big 4 my rig wont start. I crank the key and the solenoid clicks but it wont crank. I have double checked all the connections and unless I cant see it they are all plunged in. The shifter goes in and out of park. The solenoid only clicks when I try to start it in park or neutral. The fuel safety switch on the passenger side kick panel is pushed in. All my lights and windows work.

Not sure what it could be. I have the batt charging but I really don't think that will help. I did a quick Google search and I see that lots of people have had something similar but not exactly the same and what worked for them didn't work for me. I will keep reading but figured id post here.

 

[stamp11127]

Make sure you have a good clean and tight connection at the battery and terminals.

 

[lunchboxlust]

i just thought of that after reading a no start post. I did install terminal lugs and i bet they have paint on the inside where the batt posts go. ill be back

 

[lunchboxlust]

Nope the batt is charged. I cleaned the terminals and it didn't help. The coating on them is conductive any way. The terminals read 12.72 -12.64 same as if i go from the pos to any of the grounds I installed. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the fusible link in the positive cable. I was worried that when installing the h/o alt and the big 4 that it might blow but I couldn't find any info and nobody answered my post but from what I understand about electrical I don't think it should of mattered. I'm just at a loss. I just don't understand what it could be,

 

[lunchboxlust]

oh also I do have a starter and alarm. I don't have fobs for it and it has never went off before until I took apart the dash. It started going off if I disconnected any ground under the dash. But it isn't going off now and I have all the wires that were connected to the unit hooked back up but maybe it tripped something that I cant fix without fobs?

 

[stamp11127]

Make sure the starter solenoid on the firewall is tripping when the ignition is turned to "start". Then verify you have 12v at one of the large studs - should be hot at all times.
Once you do have the 12v there, jump the large studs on the solenoid. The starter should spin.

 

[lunchboxlust]

i do hear one click when i try to start but it is just me so i can not confirm it is the solenoid but i would assume it is. ill go try.

 

[stamp11127]

If you have a test light or dmm that will make life easier. Or just jump the large studs on the solenoid. You will have a little sparking normally. A bunch of sparks will indicate a heavy draw and may start welding things if you leave it connected to long.

 

[lunchboxlust]

I have 12.62 volts on the lower stud. the upper read like -30 so I'm guessing it is zero. I tried multiple times to jump it and it clicks but wont crank.

 

[lunchboxlust]

i just want to say thank you for the help once again.

 

[stamp11127]

Give the starter a good whack with a hammer on the starter body and try again. Your welcome, I enjoy the challenges members bring on here and look forward to solving a few problems.
The lug that has 0 volts is the lead to the starter. The other is the feed from the battery.
You shouldn't hear any clicking at the solenoid when jumping since you are bypassing the internals.

 

[lunchboxlust]

Nope the hammer Didn't work. If I try to read the voltage across the starter it would have to be done when cranking correct? The started is wet with oil and doesn't look very clean but it is upstate Ny. Also I did removed the ground that goes to the starter while doing the big 4. I cleaned the frame and used dielectric grease on all the connectors. I installed two 0 gauge ring terminals underneath the starter ground but the terminals are copper so I would think that it would help.

 

[stamp11127]

The dielectric grease is an insulator - blocks current flow. You need to remove it everywhere you installed it. You always want good metal to metal contact in circuits.
There are paints formulated for protecting electrical connections. Use that once everything is cleaned up and working. If you have jumper cables you can install a temp ground from the battery to the engine and try again.

 

[lunchboxlust]

hmm I do hear clicking but it might not be the solenoid but I couldn't really tell I just thought that it should so I didn't pay attention. Maybe it is the starter clicking?

 

[lunchboxlust]

haha that's funny the tube even says to coat everything in it and then connect it. I knew to not use it on the batt but didn't know not to on the grounds.

 

[lunchboxlust]

Well it starting to get dark and I work in my unlit driveway so Ill have to pick up for tonight but I will clean all the grease off tomorrow and make sure the ground one the starter is cleaned better. If you have anything else I can try ill do it and report back to you.

 

[stamp11127]

Use a jumper cable as a temp ground between the engine and battery. Should start then if nothing else is wrong.

 

[lunchboxlust]

pics of wiring on other post

http://www.expeditionforum.com/f45/need-info-installing-my-300amp-alt-27122/#post220907

So I removed all grounds and cleaned off all of the dielectric grease and re sanded all surfaces and connectors... No help.
I also tried to use a jumper cable as a jumper wire from the neg on the starter to the neg on batt... No help... should i try the pos side? As for the clicking I hear when I try to start the engine I believe that it is the starter making the noise or somewhere on the drivers side of the engine bay but it is just me so I'm not 100%. Again I cannot find my hynes manual even tho I know I have two. One is usually in the truck but I have it gutted so I don't know where it got off two. I'm going to start checking fuses when I find the book in a few. I just need to get out of the sun a bit. Any other suggestions would be great.

 

[stamp11127]

I'll look at my starter setup when I get back home to see if it has two heavy cables. Most auto starters I have run across use a neg ground and not a negative cable. The neg groung cable is usually used on semi and heavy equipment where there is a very high current load when starting.

 

[stamp11127]

Do you have a meter or test light?