Off-road in '17 EL 4WD - steep, rutted climbs (videos - link fixed)

[shinysideup2]

I had the opportunity to take my 2017 EL Limited 4WD to Cleghorn Ridge Trail here in Southern California. The famous "Edison Hill" section (and many others at Cleghorn) provides multiple great opportunities to test our rigs' ability to climb rutted hills of varying steepness.

NOTE: 10/16: I fixed the below link. Here's the URL just in case I screwed it up again: https://photos.app.goo.gl/gyFpEJzu1rUasVFW7

Here are some videos illustrating what this EL could and couldn't do, configured as follows:

2017 Expedition EL Limited 4WD (3 adults + 3 children on board)
- 33" tires (275-60R20 on Method NV305 20x9 +18 offset - +1" outset vs stock)
- Front hitch receiver (acts a bit like a skid plate)

NOTES:
- I didn't push it too hard because I was towing a travel trailer that weekend and didn't want to risk breaking drivetrain and axle parts.
- This is also the reason I'm currently preferring narrower tires (275). I want the tires to give before drivetrain & axle parts break.
- I was surprised at how much traction there was in 2WD, and how much nicer it was to 'wheel in 2WD, given the EL's rear Limited Slip Diff (3.73).
- It was interesting to hear the ControlTrac kick in 4Lo. Very capable system, but not as robust a real lockers, which I had in my old 4Runner 4WD. You could feel the brakes being modulated and holding the rig back a bit.
- I did not disconnect the sway bars this time, but will try it next time. That bit of extra articulation may help with traction on the one hill that I couldn't get up (see this video at 1:47). My 4Runner (with locker and bars disconnected) did this hill without a problem.
- While I like the 3.5L EcoBoost for towing, the turbo lag gets in a way for low-RPM off-roading such as this. Throttle response is not great at low RPMs which is where you need it when going up rutted hills like this. A torquey NA engine (V8) would be better for this type of stuff. Left-foot braking helps a bit when trying to delicately traverse a series of deep ruts in order to keep turbo boost from sneaking up on you, but it's definitely annoying to have to do.
- Going up Edison Hill, I incorrectly mentioned the rumbling noise as coming from the LSD. I later figured out that this is ControlTrac using the ABS motor to modulate out excess wheelspin (software emulated "locker").

Next up / off-road wishlist:
- Skid plates (tranny and gas tank) - likely RCI
- Rock sliders - probably will have to go with a 90" universal fit weld-on unit.
- Upgrade dampers Rancho RS9000XL (Icons are too expensive for what I want to do).
- Rear sway bar (Hellwig #7688) for towing stability & on-road handling.
- 1"-2" Body Lift - if I can find a kit or figure out how to cobble one together with washers & extended bolts + figure out what connection issues might arise (steering, hoses, etc).
- Upper Control Arms (Icon)
- Maybe a mild lift after UCA's are installed.

My goals (in order of priority) are to have
- a reliable rig with which I can haul my family of four,
- tow our 4000 lb travel trailer, and
- venture out to interesting (and challenging) off-road destinations.

I'd love to see videos of others (especially EL's) off-roading!

 

[JExpedition07]

Thanks for posting, but I can’t access the videos. Is it my phone?

 

[shinysideup2]

Thanks for posting, but I can’t access the videos. Is it my phone?

10/16: I fixed the below link and the one in the original post. Here's the URL just in case. https://photos.app.goo.gl/gyFpEJzu1rUasVFW7

The link is to my Google Photos album with multiple videos and photos. I don't think it's viewable on iPhone without the Google Photos app. You can also view it on a computer in a web browser.

I just posted the main video (Edison Hill) on youtube here:
The quality is good (up to 4k UHD) if you expand to full screen.

 

[Munkiebunz3]

I'm loving the little screams in the background there. Looks like a lot of fun. I just got the RCI engine & transmission skid plates installed. I'm having a small clunk upon starting now so I'm going to check my motor mounts. I have a similar wish list as you on what to do next.

 

[Black]

Thanks for the write up. Hoping to have a similar setup upon my completion.

Why are you wanting to go with Ranchos??
You could go with Bilstein and have a 1-2” lift for the front and a 1” in the rear. Gaining you ground clearance and far better shocks than Rancho.

What front hitch are you using and have any pics?

 

[shinysideup2]

Thanks for the write up. Hoping to have a similar setup upon my completion.

Why are you wanting to go with Ranchos??
You could go with Bilstein and have a 1-2” lift for the front and a 1” in the rear. Gaining you ground clearance and far better shocks than Rancho.

What front hitch are you using and have any pics?

I like the adjustability of the Ranchos. Had good results with the non-adjustables on an old '92 Explorer.

@Black Tell me more about the Bilsteins. That's the perfect lift height (1 to 2 inches). I want to avoid more than 2" due to our independent suspension. How is the lift achieved? What's the part #?

Here's the front hitch. Curt 31068 (link to Amazon)


It's really saved my truck from damage a few times, though it does reduce front clearance significantly. I needed it for other purposes, so in balance, it works for me.

 

[Black]

You have a couple of different options for the front based upon budget. You’ll be using the shocks from an F150.

Best option in my opinion are the Bilstein 6112 Coilover. This is a 62mm shock coupled with a new coil spring and lower spring perch that reuses your OEM top mount.
It is adjustable from 0”-2” in height by using a snapring to adjust where the lower spring perch sits.

Bilstein 47-256958 B8 6112 Suspension Leveling Kit Front 0-2 in. Lift B8 6112 Suspension Leveling Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJW1XFR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CfIXBbTAP0VA1

Your less expensive option is the Bilstein 5110 adjustable shock again utilizes a snap ring to adjust the position of the lower spring perch and is only a 46mm shock.

Bilstein 24248129 Shock Absorber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N994D9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fiIXBbSCV12MT

For this option you will need to cut your OEM spring perch off your OEM shock and reuse your OEM spring and top mount.
You can try to locate the OEM spring perches from an older Expedition (I had zero luck with this).

However, I was able to source the lower spring perches from NAPA as their models still use a removable spring perch. Full disclosure this was an extra special order that had to be done by the regional NAPA manager as the perches alone are not normally an orderable part. The part number is P-1388 and does not show up on their website nor did it show up in the stores ordering system. My NAPA guy rocks so your results may vary. They cost me $12 a perch plus shipping and a 2 week wait.


As for the rear you are stuck with the Bilstein 4600 from an older model Expedition. This like the 5110 you will reuse the lower springperch,spring and top mount.
The 4600 is not an adjustable height shock.

Bilstein 24-197724 Shock Absorber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FU7ERS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z-IXBb4TCEBTP

Now to achieve the 1” lift on the rear you will need to utilize the aluminum lift collar from the 5100 shock. If you go with the 5100 front you can just use the collar from that on the rear and set your spring clip to the highest setting (I believe) on the front.

If you choose the 6112 coilover you will need to contact Bilstein to get the collars from the 5110 and I do not know that part number.


Also, how did you come to decide on ICON upper control arms? They are number 2 on my list behind BPS.

 

[shinysideup2]

Also, how did you come to decide on ICON upper control arms? They are number 2 on my list behind BPS.

Awesome information @Black. Thank you - this is exactly what I need. I love finding solutions to make vehicles do things that they're really not supposed to do. e.g. My '05 Altima V6 has adjustable shocks from a '99 Maxima and a '96 300 ZX. I used to race my '99 Maxima. New goals with the family - get the long-ass Expedition EL to go places it shouldn't be able to go.

RE: Why Icon UCAs? mostly just going with well-known name brands when it doesn't cost me significantly more. I've been taking cues from JL Zaring @ http://www.1lifelive.com/1lifelive-rig-specs.html as I don't see many other serious-off-road 3rd gen Expedition builds. I wish they would have stuck with a solid rear axle or made the diffs otherwise droppable (vs. half-axles threaded through the frame). I don't know anything about the BPS UCAs. Feel free to educate me.

 

[powerboatr]

hearing the kids really makes it seem REAL
thanks for sharing

 

[Black]

Sorry auto correct must have gotten me earlier or I just fat fingered it but I am likely to go with BDS, not BPS, UCAs.

http://bds-suspension.com/blog/?p=15139

Here in Kentucky we get a lot of ice so lots of road salt is the way of winter life so uniballs are an absolute no go for me.
I like the idea of the ICON Delta Joint but can’t justify the nearly $200 price increase from the BDS Arms.
BDS utilizes a standard style ball joint but is beefed up and lengthened along with better arm angles.
Also in a few videos I have seen people have made mention of ICONs lack of customer service. I have no experience with ICON so I can not speak to it. But the main reason for BDS is a standard style ball joint and solid reviews.

 

[shinysideup2]

I like the idea of the ICON Delta Joint but can’t justify the nearly $200 price increase from the BDS Arms.

I thought they were both around $700 ?

Thanks for the info. I may change course towards BDS too.

 

[Black]

ICONs with uniballs are $750, $850 with Delta Joints are $850 and another $40 or so for the top cap if you want the top semi sealed.
If you have seen better prices let me know where.

BDS are around $700

 

[Munkiebunz3]

Oh, I forgot to mention that RCI skid plates don't have the one for the fuel tank. I heard yesterday the expedition also came in the ssv (police) and had full skid plates. If true, nobody else does fuel tank skids and that might be an option. I'm slowly building up my rig. A lot of the parts acquisition is some fabrication too. The RCI skids don't fully bolt on w/o issues since they are for the f150 but happen to have similar mounts. There are cutouts for the exhaust but it will still clang unless you have a couple thick washers at the rear of the transmission skid.

 

[Black]

I had not heard about the clank issue with the RCI plates.

You are correct in regard to the fuel tank skid plate you can get the one from the SSV. You will also need the 3 fuel tank straps from the SSV as they have the studs to mount the plate where ours do not.

7L1Z-9A147-D Skid Plate

Fuel Tank Straps:
front: 6L1Z-9054-AA
center: DL1Z-9092-B
rear: 6L1Z-9054-BA

There is also a side protector for the tank.
AL1Z-9K014-A

The fuel tank skid plate is thick plastic. I think I’ll have it LineXd for some added protection.

Still not sure on a transfer case skid plate option.

 

[Munkiebunz3]

I'll look into possibly my motor mounts going bad then. If I don't have those washers it rests on the exhaust. Currently it does a single clang upon startup .

 

[Trainmaster]

I ordered the Ford skid plates for my 2008 from Tasca. They had a free shipping deal so the three cost me about $350 with the hardware. As Black said, the fuel tank plate is heavy plastic. The engine plate and the transfer plate are steel. Not very heavy, but they'll stop gravel and rocks and wood that kicks up.

All SSVs had all three skid plates and if you are lucky you can find them at a junk yard.

The regular length Expedition tank plate only has two straps and you can swap the straps without dropping the tank. I had all three plates on in less than an hour.

 

[iaazan]

I like the adjustability of the Ranchos. Had good results with the non-adjustables on an old '92 Explorer.

@Black Tell me more about the Bilsteins. That's the perfect lift height (1 to 2 inches). I want to avoid more than 2" due to our independent suspension. How is the lift achieved? What's the part #?

Here's the front hitch. Curt 31068 (link to Amazon)
View attachment 27222

It's really saved my truck from damage a few times, though it does reduce front clearance significantly. I needed it for other purposes, so in balance, it works for me.

How do you like the front hitch? Looks like it mounts up and out of the way pretty well. I'd like to get one for moving my boat in and out of the RV gate on the side of the house, where I have to navigate a low retaining wall and pool pump. Was it easy to mount up?

 

[shinysideup2]

For gas tank skids, I'm thinking about fabricating one myself (and use the SSV straps - thanks @Black for the part #'s). The design looks like we would just need to be able to cut, bend, and drill through thick plate steel. No welding or tricky bend patterns. I'm generally handy, but haven't done a lot of fab work. I put down my first weld last week. It was ugly. I need a LOT of practice (and time on YouTube).

Looking at photos on RCI's website, it looks like the transfer case skid plate may not fit because it appears Expeditions have an additional cross-member just behind the transfer case that the F-150's do not have (or have in a very different position). This also means that the transfer case might be less susceptible to damage since it sits between the 2 cross members that jut downward. This is also my greatest concern when it comes to breakover angle for our Expeditions as it juts down pretty far in exactly the wrong place.

Here's a photo under my 2017 EL 4WD with the "extra" cross member in the center of the photo. That's the one I don't see on the F-150's.

 

[Black]

For gas tank skids, I'm thinking about fabricating one myself (and use the SSV straps - thanks @Black for the part #'s). The design looks like we would just need to be able to cut, bend, and drill through thick plate steel.

There are two things I would be mindful of when fabricating my own.

1st being weight since the straps are already supporting 33 gallons of gas or about 200 pounds.
We’re talking a pretty big steel plate so all that weight will be held by the straps as well.
Gas tank straps tend to be fairly thin. And certainly not as strong as bolting to the frame like most skid plates. I would go as thin as possible for my steel or use aluminum.

2nd is that it appears from the diagram I posted that the portion of the skid plate where the holes for the studs are indented up so when the nut is applied from the bottom the nut and stud are not exposed. I’d be somewhat concerned about a rock or other obstruction shearing off the nut and stud if it was exposed.

 

[shinysideup2]

How do you like the front hitch? Looks like it mounts up and out of the way pretty well. I'd like to get one for moving my boat in and out of the RV gate on the side of the house, where I have to navigate a low retaining wall and pool pump. Was it easy to mount up?

@iaazan. Yes. It was very easy to mount. I ended up NOT cutting the fascia, but I did remove the air dam. It works as designed. Only thing I didn't think about is if the trailer is tall, you can't see around it like you can when you're hooked up to the rear hitch (with rear view mirrors). Your boat might not be too tall, as long as you can see over it. I ended up only using it for navigating my 10' tall travel trailer through extreme angles in tight spaces where the long wheelbase of the EL would not allow backing the trailer in.