Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

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Shinobi'sZ

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Thank you shinobi for your response. I will keep the possible leak problem in mind. I did have the shop flush the cores. They pinched off the lines individually and forward & back flushed each one until nothing came out of them. I took my truck to a radiator shop who specialized just in this. Right now my truck get enough warm air to keep it comfortable in the cabin. I would say it gets to around 70 degrees inside the cabin after half an hour on a 35 degree day. Fortunately our expedition is our extra vehicle that gets used mainly in the summer to pull our popup trailer for camping or for when one of our other vehicles are in a shop.

I am contempt right now with my truck. I will try the CLR flush when I start losing heat. I asked about the hoses & CLR because others on here have claimed to sprung leaks in their hoses after using the prestone flush, sometimes as early as 3 months.

The Prestone flush is an acid like CLR, both which are contained in plastic. More than likely the people who have had issues are having leaks from the actual core itself after the rust was removed. Im doubtful it would eat the thick rubber hose enough or melt it. I spilt some on the outside of my hoses and it cleaned them, they look like brand new hoses. No sign of eating the rubber.
 

gkelly

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I been debating on doing this I definitely have a clog but shops tell me that it will definitely leak after they reverse it but I also just seen a video on YouTube of two guys doing a heater core swap in 45 min completely removed and installed! So I think I will have a shop reverse flush and if it leaks ill have a nice job to do one day
 

vivaster

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I been debating on doing this I definitely have a clog but shops tell me that it will definitely leak after they reverse it but I also just seen a video on YouTube of two guys doing a heater core swap in 45 min completely removed and installed! So I think I will have a shop reverse flush and if it leaks ill have a nice job to do one day

I would find a radiator shop that specializes in flushing. The shop I took mine to pinched off each core individually and forward & back flushed each one until nothing came out. Whereas my regular mechanic changed a thermostat for me and then told me to change the heater cores without diagnosing any further. it probably is 45 minutes to change the heater core, but the front one requires hours to remove and re-install the dash.
 

gkelly

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I would find a radiator shop that specializes in flushing. The shop I took mine to pinched off each core individually and forward & back flushed each one until nothing came out. Whereas my regular mechanic changed a thermostat for me and then told me to change the heater cores without diagnosing any further. it probably is 45 minutes to change the heater core, but the front one requires hours to remove and re-install the dash.

They had the dash out in 15 minutes!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPtM2vWMSZ4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 

vivaster

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The biggest misconception is the feeling of the hoses to see if they are hot.

First, the factory OEM hoses are VERY well insulated, thick and beefy and keep the heat well within the hose. As I posted earlier in the thread I could hold the hose no problem for a min or so until it was just a tad bit uncomfortable.

Cutting the hose and replacing the first half of it with a foot of auto parts bought hose (to rule out restrictor) and you can't hold the auto parts part of the hose for more than 2 seconds. Because the auto parts hose is for crap and not insulated like the OEM hoses.

So that test just doesn't tell me anything.....

Here is what I am still trying to figure out......

1) How can BOTH front and rear units be having a problem at the same time? The only thing in common is the water flowing through the lines, and we know its hot.

2) Am I safe to assume that the water line has a tee in it and the front and rear units are in series somehow?. Is there a diagram of the piping on the DVD I bought or can someone draw it for me? If I blow in the hose with my mouth I get water coming out the other end so I don't have a clog right?

3) How can I have two bad blend doors one in the front unit, one in the rear unit?

4) Why do people on EBay, auto parts stores and other places say there is a heater line valve for my 2002 Expedition if there isn't one?

Sooo frustrated, but appreciate all the help thus far.... Just wish someone had the magic answer.....

Saving up to take it to ford for diagnosis or do a water pump myself if it gets above freezing long enough here.....

Hi, did you ever get it worked out? Did the wayerpump fix it? Maybe you can try the CLR like shinobi did. I was told my mechanic that over time the heater cores develope a layer of gunk/corosion on the inside of it and the heat transfer is lessened to the cores themselves.

I also read that the alternators could also cause problems with the coolant system.

Do you know if you are getting good coolant temperature, I think my mechanic checked the temperature at the thermostat housing. I've read that if the fan clutch was stuck, the fan over cool the system.

Sorry, I couldn't help, but these may be other things to look at.
 

Shinobi'sZ

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Hi, did you ever get it worked out? Did the wayerpump fix it? Maybe you can try the CLR like shinobi did. I was told my mechanic that over time the heater cores develope a layer of gunk/corosion on the inside of it and the heat transfer is lessened to the cores themselves.

I also read that the alternators could also cause problems with the coolant system.

Do you know if you are getting good coolant temperature, I think my mechanic checked the temperature at the thermostat housing. I've read that if the fan clutch was stuck, the fan over cool the system.

Sorry, I couldn't help, but these may be other things to look at.

My front heater blows hot enough now that I have to lower the temp on the head unit to 72* without sweating. I don't see any leaks on the floorboard or under the vehicle in the rear where the rear Heatercore would leak from. I also have not seen a change in the coolant level. The rear Heatercore is easy to get too compared to the front. As for the guy saying somebody got the front dash out in 15 mins I have to call ******** on that.
 
B

bedrck46

I watched the video was about 15 minutes but was also on a F150 so they didn't have to contend with the center console and also was two people removing the dash
 

vivaster

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My front heater blows hot enough now that I have to lower the temp on the head unit to 72* without sweating. I don't see any leaks on the floorboard or under the vehicle in the rear where the rear Heatercore would leak from. I also have not seen a change in the coolant level. The rear Heatercore is easy to get too compared to the front. As for the guy saying somebody got the front dash out in 15 mins I have to call ******** on that.

I don't think we should call it bull, but the average guy would take longer. I watched the video and they did it, but they are fast and seem to know where everything was.. The book says it's an 8 hour job. My coworker used to work at Ford and the fastest he's seen it done was 3 hours. He used to do it in 5 to 6 hours, but he was careful with customer cars. Thanks for the update on your truck. I will try the CLR this fall.
 

gkelly

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Well i bit the bullet and had my heater core flushed and back flushed taking a chance since the core could leak and so far so good no leaks but my heat is so damn hot I cant keep it on for that long .. definitely not going to complain about that! It was getting cold driving that truck with the clog!
 

Shinobi'sZ

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I don't think we should call it bull, but the average guy would take longer. I watched the video and they did it, but they are fast and seem to know where everything was.. The book says it's an 8 hour job. My coworker used to work at Ford and the fastest he's seen it done was 3 hours. He used to do it in 5 to 6 hours, but he was careful with customer cars. Thanks for the update on your truck. I will try the CLR this fall.

Comparing removal of a F150 dash to an Expedition Dash and telling people that it can be removed in 15 mins is bull. The Heatercore might be the same but the dash is more involved.
 

ls1chevelle

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flush it with CLR

i read the first four pages of this thread... and didnt see anyone hit solution. I'm short on time and if I dont post now ill forget.

I had the same symptoms in my 01 5.4 EB no AT ALL in front or rear. Yet I had heated lines all the way to the rear. I dremeled a whole in the plenum and could see the blend door moving....
Here's what fixed it for me. I have it on youtube but I dont have the link handy just search heater expedition CLR should pull it up.

Anyway the fix:

Drain the coolant a few times until it drains clear. (After the 3rd time i just opened the drain, then stuck my hose in the fill jug and started the truck. after about ten minutes it actually was clear.)
Go get the prestone flushing kit, the Gallon jug of CLR from home depot, and some antifreeze.

With the coolant system empty poor half the CLR into the radiator and turn your hose on then start your truck as the hose begins to fill the coolant system. I had been fighting this problem so many times I knew how much to turn my hose on to allow me time to make it from the driveway to the spigot to the ignition switch. My approach was get the truck running with the most concentrated amount of CLR flowing as possible. Im not sayin idle your truck with 2 quarts of liquid in it.. im saying start it up as quick as possible while filling it at a moderate speed. once full drive it for ten or so minutes. I suppose you could sit in your driveway and run the rpms up to 3000 for a couple minutes.

Now with it still idling open the drain valve and I should mention at this point I had rigged up an old piece of hose and hose clamp to direct the flow from the drain valve... if I had not have had a hose on the drain valve the hot coolant would have spewed and maybe splashed me while i was opening it.
so car idling with CLR + water drain, valve open, let your hose add water such that it matches the speed of whats coming out. let all the crap come out till it looks clear again and turn the truck off. and let the water drain back out.
close the drain. install the prestone T fitting and follow their instructions for flushing. I suggest a couple large towels protecting the COPs and injectors from any drippage or if you fubar it like i did and put that valve backwards and spew water all over everything the towels will catch it or give you time to haul ass back to the spigot... it was dark and late and i was cold :p

anyway after flushing with prestone and filling back up with straight water I found my heat working. The next day it got even warmer. I felt my problem solved so I drained and filled with 50/50. In hindsight I should have flushed it again with the remaining half gallon of CLR and have let it sit for a few hours on the second fill.... then drained and flushed.

You might say well how do you know it was the CLR and not the prestone well because I had flushed this thing a dozen times using prestone and anything else I could find on the shelf at walmart and pepboys over the last three years.
That day I happened to be cleaning something and i realized the correlation between what CLR is meant to clean and what our cooling system is comprised of: water and metal. i went to straight to HD and by 8 that evening I was flushing with CLR. By 9:30 I had heat..
 
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stamp11127

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CLR has a note that it will take the finish off of aluminum and copper. I take that as an etch so your hitting all the aluminum parts of the cooling system.
 

ls1chevelle

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CLR has a note that it will take the finish off of aluminum and copper. I take that as an etch so your hitting all the aluminum parts of the cooling system.

You're correct and upon reading that I pulled out some aluminum foil and poured some car on it.. The aluminum foil became warm and there was a tiny tiny bit of either smoke or steam rising up I let it sit for 45 mins or so and nothing terrible happened to the foil... So... All I can say is that it worked
 
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