Radiator or transmission line?

[BigRed2004]

I recently discovered that I have a leak at one of the radiator connections. If I’m not mistaken the area of the leak is from a transmission line connection. Would anyone be able to confirm this from the photos? And is this something where I need to replace the whole radiator, or is the connector something that could be replaced? My vehicle has a VIN build date of 03/19/2004.

 

[BigRed2004]

1st, I apologize for the double post everyone.
2nd, I’m pretty sure it’s the radiator based on pictures I was able to take in the day time. And not an o-ring where the hard line goes in.

Has anyone had luck with a junkyard pull? I know that for me it would be much quicker and cost effective to go that rough instead of ordering and waiting for a new one.

 

[whtbronco]

I have never tried a junkyard or used radiator. It's enough work that I prefer to go with a new unit for the extended life expectancy. Not to mention the potential that a used radiator may be plugged up with crud and corrosion. It's also gonna be over 20yrs old and the plastic on the used radiator isn't likely to be in much better condition that yours is.

Being a 2003 I suspect it's a downflow and so your used selection will be even more limited.

 

[BigRed2004]

I did not take age and into consideration for degradation of the materials. Or what the inside is like.

Thank you @whtbronco for the input. I may just visit the junkyard to do a practice run on the disassembly.

 

[whtbronco]

I may just visit the junkyard to do a practice run on the disassembly.

That's a good idea.

The only thing I find difficult to do is get the fan loose. I need a helper to hold the water pump pulley and then I use a large adjustable wrench and smack it with a mini sledge hammer. You pretty much need the correct wrench that fits over the water pump pulley mounting bolts. Mine is designed for a 1/2" breaker bar.

 

[Hamfisted]

Yeah, I would never risk my engine and tranny to a junkyard radiator. If that internal tranny cooler goes, so goes your trans ....

You can order one off Amazon and have it in 2 days. Or if you have an AutoZone nearby they stock 'em.








.

 

[BigRed2004]

I’ve looked at the Autozone prices and they are surprisingly pricey compared to other options, Amazon or even Rock Auto. I need to verify the correct radiator still. I have to pull the shroud off to make sure I get the number from there and compare it to the sticker on the side. If the Spectra units on Rock Auto are the correct fit I can get one of those with next day delivery for just over $115ish.

 

[BigOleFordFan]

No way I would trust a junkyard pull for a 20 yo part...especially something like a rad, which is not only essential to engine operation, but subject to crud & sludge build up....

Even if you get lucky and get one that lasts 6 months, then you will have to go back in & do the same work all over again....not really worth it IMHO, when you could just do it once for ~$150 & be golden for another 5-15 yrs

However, the practice disassembly/reassembly would probably be time well spent !

 

[BigRed2004]

I know they say use the right tools for the right job, but they also say there is more than (1) way to skin a cat. Does anyone happen to know what size wrench I would need for the fan clutch? I would find this more cost effective to smack and shock the fan loose as opposed to paying for a fan clutch tool set or hoping my local Autozone has one to rent that isn’t warped. I think it’s 1.5 inch, but I want to verify before I buy. I know it’s larger than 1.25 as that is the biggest I currently have.

 

[whtbronco]

I had to use my 18" adjustable wrench for the fan. The hard part is holding the pulley. The belt isn't even remotely close to enough. The fan wrench in my set is worthless, I don't even try to use it anymore. I only use the pulley bolt wrench with my breaker bar, but it really takes a dedicated person to hold it. Mine looks like this.



I'm sure there are other ways to hold the pulley, but nothing I have works. One of these days I will cut my own wrench. It'll have 2-3 holes for the pulley bolts(the bolts will go through) and a 1/2" square for my breaker bar.

 

[whtbronco]

Well for $20 I think I'll just buy this set since it has what I wanted to make.

 

[SafariGoneWrong]

I had success with a good strap wrench on the pulley and a sharp rap on the kit fan clutch wrench. Three times in 7 1/2 years it’s worked. Your results may differ…

 

[BigRed2004]

I was just on amazon checking these out to see if I could find one with good reviews.

 

[Hamfisted]

Should be a 36mm wrench. I have an air chisel wrench set for the job. But that's probably overkill....LOL

Air Chisel Wrench Set on Amazon

 

[BigRed2004]

If I had the ability to use air tools I would for certain jobs. I’m tempted to go the 15” route with strap wrench for the pulley. Especially since I won’t be able to buy air tools.

 

[SafariGoneWrong]

The strap wrench I've had luck with is the Boa Constrictor available on Amazon. I've also used the 15" Craftsman adjustable wrench on the clutch nut similar to @whtbronco. The weight of the big adjustable is more helpful than the kit wrench...it's nice and heavy and when cocked about 30 degrees to the left after a sharp rap, well...it's worked for me.

 

[BigRed2004]

Thanks @SafariGoneWrong

 

[whtbronco]

Should be a 36mm wrench. I have an air chisel wrench set for the job. But that's probably overkill....LOL

Air Chisel Wrench Set on Amazon

That's what I'm going with. I have a big friggin air compressor now to run my HVLP paint gun and I have an air hammer. This will make it easy.

A strap wrench that would actually hold would likely work as well. I've never been impressed with strap wrenches, maybe I just never got my hands on a good one. They were all used, maybe abused.

 

[SafariGoneWrong]

I should have added the strap wrench needs a little help. I use a sawed-off aluminum baseball bat (my go-to leverage extender for over 40 years--light with decent length, very rigid and good opening size) over the Boa Constrictor handle with the bat braced against a suitable piece of wood, etc. Wind the strap up tight with the adjustable or kit wrench on the fan clutch and then whack it. I'm too lazy to find the air hammer case, fire up the compressor and then deal with putting it all away. The bat is surprisingly strong--has held up to multiple differential pinion crush collar torqueing over the years but it always makes me nervous.

 

[TheOneDH]

I had a similar issue on my expedition, my transmission cooler line had rusted where it connected into the cooler on the radiator, I ended up going to a local Pick-n-Pull and found a brand new almost radiator and what I used was a pipe cutter to cut off back away from the transmission lines because they were in good shape and I reattached them to my transmission lines attached to the transmission itself in a nice clean spot I used some compression fittings as well as some high pressure hoses and it's been working great for me for about 6 or 7 months now, it was a little time-consuming but it was worth it for me because I paid $45 for a practically brand new radiator