Tom’s 2014 XLT 4X4

[ExplorerTom]

More shocks pictures.

 

[ExplorerTom]

The truck came with some oddly worn General Grabber AT2. They were about 5 years old. The tires on the front were worn pretty bad but the rears still had decent tread. However, this February has been one of the snowiest Februaries in recorded history for Denver. The Grabbers struggled. The tires were extremely hard- which is why they sucked in the snow.

I had Cooper Discoverer ATPs on my 2000. They were pretty good but I wanted to try the AT3 4S. These have the 3 Peak Mountain Snowflake symbol, which doesn’t make them great tires in the snow, but potentially better than a tire without the symbol.

Even though I upsized the tires on my 2000, I went with new factory sized tires 275/65/18. These aren’t even LT. I don’t plan on taking this thing too far off the road. If a sedan could make it, that’s where I’ll take this thing.

 

[grdsman]

I knew my shocks were original and noticed some clunks and bumps going over bumps in the road. The right rear seemed especially bad.

I decided to go with a full set of the Bilstein 5100 height adjustable shocks.

Installation was...... involved. It’s mostly just what I call a “nut and bolt” type installation- one where you just need to remove a bunch of nuts and bolts. Of course there is the added fun of the spring compressors, but I’ve swapped plenty of springs before.

The issue came in the rear. Part of the install is to swap over the lower spring seat. I removed the coilover and got the spring off. I started pounding away at the lower seat but it’s not budging. It was pretty dirty and there is some rust on components here and there so I thought maybe it was just rust holding it on. After a closer look, it looked as though the lower seat was welded on. Crap! An even closer look revealed that the shock I pulled out was fatter than the Bilstein slated to go in. Even if I got the seat off, it wouldn’t fit.

I put all my hopes on that mine had some kind of unique suspension and something at the junkyard would work. So off to the junkyard I went. I found a 2010 with the skinny rear shocks. I pulled those out pretty quickly and easily. All I really needed was the lower spring seat, spring and upper mount, but I bought the 2 complete assemblies. For $35 I can’t complain too much.

However, the 2010 springs are thicker in diameter than my 2014 springs- which probably means they also have a higher spring rate.

The rest of the install went fine. The right rear was totally blown and leaking fluid. One of the front had good compression control but had a really quick rebound.

I set all the clips on the Bilsteins to their highest position. I think the 2010 springs caused the rear to set a little high.

Resulting ride is MUCH improved. Feels like a truck- but in a good way. View attachment 34606View attachment 34607View attachment 34608View attachment 34609

Your rears look more like my Nivomat self leveling shocks. Do you have a close-up of the part number on them for comparison? I’m hoping the ‘14 rears that I just ordered on EBay are the standard smaller shocks so I can put my Bilstiens in them.


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[ExplorerTom]

Your rears look more like my Nivomat self leveling shocks. Do you have a close-up of the part number on them for comparison? I’m hoping the ‘14 rears that I just ordered on EBay are the standard smaller shocks so I can put my Bilstiens in them.


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this part number is only on the spring, nothing on the shock body itself.

From my limited research, I believe the self leveling shocks use a hydraulic pump to level out the back. These looked just like regular shocks (only fatter). No hydraulic lines, no hydraulic fittings.

 

[ExplorerTom]

Huh. I guess I did have the self leveling rear with the Nivomat shocks. And I thought my headlights weren’t aimed properly when leaving my house- but seemed to be better when returning. I didn’t think too much of it.
https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/nivomat-shock-absorbers-self-leveling-monotube-ride-control-units/

But that right rear was totally blown.

I’m happy with the Bilsteins. Glad I made the switch. Plus I got a little lift.

 

[07navi]

Huh. I guess I did have the self leveling rear with the Nivomat shocks. And I thought my headlights weren’t aimed properly when leaving my house- but seemed to be better when returning. I didn’t think too much of it.
https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/nivomat-shock-absorbers-self-leveling-monotube-ride-control-units/

But that right rear was totally blown.

I’m happy with the Bilsteins. Glad I made the switch. Plus I got a little lift.

So what do you think about buying the whole unit ready to drop in? Waste of money?

 

[ExplorerTom]

So what do you think about buying the whole unit ready to drop in? Waste of money?

The Monroe Quick Struts?

 

[07navi]

The Monroe Quick Struts?

Yes, any quick struts.

 

[ExplorerTom]

Yes, any quick struts.

No experience with them. I got quality shocks and swapped over the spring and necessary parts.

 

[07navi]

No experience with them. I got quality shocks and swapped over the spring and necessary parts.

Sounds like a better idea but many people are buying the spring with it so they can just throw it in.

 

[ExplorerTom]

Sounds like a better idea but many people are buying the spring with it so they can just throw it in.

It would certainly make it faster since you aren’t needing to mess with a spring compressor. A lot of people are wary of those things.

 

[07navi]

It would certainly make it faster since you aren’t needing to mess with a spring compressor. A lot of people are wary of those things.

The compressor doesn't scare me but you take a chance of the spring not being the same and it costs more money.

 

[star-art]

I just read where the original post author said his 2000 was "going through too many radiators." Sounds like it could have been electrolysis. That is a problem with aluminum engine cooling components and gets worse with age as the chemistry changes inside the cooling system. It's fairly easy to remedy though and places like San Carlos Radiator sell several different products that can help prevent it. I'd use these on any older vehicle I planned to keep for a long time.

 

[ExplorerTom]

I’m positive it was electrolysis. I think using distilled water during my coolant changes also didn’t help. I’ve since learned that distilled water has ions that are looking to react. Soft water is supposedly best, but straight tap water is better than distilled.

Part of me is bummed that I got rid of my 2000. It was paid for and ran well despite the radiator issues. But part of me is glad. The 2014 is an overall nicer vehicle: smoother, quieter, faster.

 

[07navi]

I flush my radiator every 2 years completely and use the cleaner first.

 

[JExpedition07]

I’m positive it was electrolysis. I think using distilled water during my coolant changes also didn’t help. I’ve since learned that distilled water has ions that are looking to react. Soft water is supposedly best, but straight tap water is better than distilled.

Part of me is bummed that I got rid of my 2000. It was paid for and ran well despite the radiator issues. But part of me is glad. The 2014 is an overall nicer vehicle: smoother, quieter, faster.

Paid for is always golden

 

[star-art]

The best prevention for electrolysis may be a grounding wire kit. The last time I changed a heater core I made sure to install one since I had to take the dash out just to get to it. That was in a Mercury Grand Marquis and not a truck, but at the time I hoped never to do it again!

 

[ExplorerTom]

The best prevention for electrolysis may be a grounding wire kit. The last time I changed a heater core I made sure to install one since I had to take the dash out just to get to it. That was in a Mercury Grand Marquis and not a truck, but at the time I hoped never to do it again!

So I did the Big 3 Upgrade. It’s commonly done by guys building car audio (big amps). This mod replaces the battery cables and ground cables with large gauge wires. And I also added a another battery cable from the radiator to ground.

But since I bought it at 174k miles, the potential neglect may have taken its toll. And the distilled water wasn’t helping- even though I thought that’s what you were supposed to put in a radiator.

Live and learn. Bought it for $4000, drove it over 80k miles, sold it for $2000 (spent over $14k in gas and a bunch of repairs and maintenance). I doubt my 2014 will provide that kind of return.

 

[ExplorerTom]

I’ve had this Eezi-Awn platform rack for several years now. This is actually the 3rd vehicle it’s been installed on.

The factory rack came off pretty easily. I noticed an odd “ring” around the factory feet. I’ve also noticed a similar discoloration on the lower part of the tailgate. I think I’ll try some claybar on it and see what happens.

Wind noise has increased. It’s not horrible, but noticeable.

 

[ExplorerTom]

Although I don’t expect to go heavy 4wheeling with this truck, I was bothered by the utter lack of protection of the front of the engine. If road debris gets kicked up or I am on some forest service road.......

I ordered a skid plate from RCI Offroad:
https://rcimetalworks.com/product-category/ford/expedition-navigator/