Hello all..
I posted a while ago about an exhaust manifold issue and was steered to the correct solution (manifold studs basically disintegrated)...
My expy appears to looked lifted. I cannot find any OEM or aftermarket identifications on any of the suspension parts but there were "trail master" stickers on the window when I bought the truck.
It looks like its lifted ... How can I be sure?
Also I had two issues since posting about the exhaust manifold problem I had..
The first is the damn driver side rear wheel snapped off the studs as I was driving on the highway. Like wtf!!?? It was fun towing it, then replacing the pressed studs.. I had to make the hole bigger at the drum-in-hat backing plate where the parking brake star wheel adjuster is in order to fit each stud in the hub. I really don't have access to the tools to pull axles.
The second (three weeks after the wheel coming off and free balling ) is as I was leaving my classes at 930pm, the truck didn't want to start. I turned the key to listen for the fuel pump and I got nothing. No hum or prime. So I figure great! Fuel pump went up. It was too dark to diagnose it and it started to rain.. So I slept in it so I wouldn't get towed and waited until sunrise.
Before calling it a night I checked for fuel pressure at the fuel rail and again nothing...
That morning, i pulled up the schematic from the schools alldata subscription and I then took the relay out for the fuel pump and jumped terminals 30 and 87 and the fuel pump fired right up...
I then started to check for spark then my battery went dead. Took about an hour to source a jump start. I then pulled a coilplug and while it cranked and saw no spark. Again, wtf... What causes no spark..? I then notice when the bulbs on the dash do a self check, the two lights that did not come on was the " check engine light" and the " theft " light. The rest comes on..
I checked all the fuses under the hood and they all were good. I then checked the under dash fuses and found my culprit... The ignition fuse (30amp and #31)
So I put a paper clip in it to jump it (I know.. Very stupid!) And it turned red... Again.. Wtf.. What could cause that...
Then I found it.. One of the noise suppressing capacitors was touching the exhaust pipe that has the dpfe hoses coming from.. It welded itself on there due to it shorting out. So I isolated and replaced the fuse and a day later she fired right up. Never hated this truck so much before that. I'm just lucky I could fix it between classed and with no tools basically...
I also found my low pressure switch on the a/c accumulator <?> was ripped out and the wires were connected, bypassing the low refrigerant switch which engages the compressor clutch whether or not if its low. I was trying to figure why the ac was warm and the compressor was running... I ask myself why would the previous owner do this...
I also replaced the heater core ... I found the hoses that led from the coolant under the hood were cut and isolated from the cores.. By the time I'm done with this truck... It'll be brand new again!!
Today, the driver side strut came out and broke the tower it was mounted on (on the upper control arm).. FML....
Also noticed my "" BRAKE! "" light only comes on when the system does its self check. It didn't come on when I was low on brake fluid nor does it come on when the parking brake is engaged..
I'm also chasing a "low grade" misfire and have no codes. It stumbles in idle... While in idle, if I try to raise the rpm to 1500 by holding the pedal solid, it will "surge" to 1800 rpms and go back down to 1300 and will never hold steady at 1500rpm.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
I posted a while ago about an exhaust manifold issue and was steered to the correct solution (manifold studs basically disintegrated)...
My expy appears to looked lifted. I cannot find any OEM or aftermarket identifications on any of the suspension parts but there were "trail master" stickers on the window when I bought the truck.
It looks like its lifted ... How can I be sure?
Also I had two issues since posting about the exhaust manifold problem I had..
The first is the damn driver side rear wheel snapped off the studs as I was driving on the highway. Like wtf!!?? It was fun towing it, then replacing the pressed studs.. I had to make the hole bigger at the drum-in-hat backing plate where the parking brake star wheel adjuster is in order to fit each stud in the hub. I really don't have access to the tools to pull axles.
The second (three weeks after the wheel coming off and free balling ) is as I was leaving my classes at 930pm, the truck didn't want to start. I turned the key to listen for the fuel pump and I got nothing. No hum or prime. So I figure great! Fuel pump went up. It was too dark to diagnose it and it started to rain.. So I slept in it so I wouldn't get towed and waited until sunrise.
Before calling it a night I checked for fuel pressure at the fuel rail and again nothing...
That morning, i pulled up the schematic from the schools alldata subscription and I then took the relay out for the fuel pump and jumped terminals 30 and 87 and the fuel pump fired right up...
I then started to check for spark then my battery went dead. Took about an hour to source a jump start. I then pulled a coilplug and while it cranked and saw no spark. Again, wtf... What causes no spark..? I then notice when the bulbs on the dash do a self check, the two lights that did not come on was the " check engine light" and the " theft " light. The rest comes on..
I checked all the fuses under the hood and they all were good. I then checked the under dash fuses and found my culprit... The ignition fuse (30amp and #31)
So I put a paper clip in it to jump it (I know.. Very stupid!) And it turned red... Again.. Wtf.. What could cause that...
Then I found it.. One of the noise suppressing capacitors was touching the exhaust pipe that has the dpfe hoses coming from.. It welded itself on there due to it shorting out. So I isolated and replaced the fuse and a day later she fired right up. Never hated this truck so much before that. I'm just lucky I could fix it between classed and with no tools basically...
I also found my low pressure switch on the a/c accumulator <?> was ripped out and the wires were connected, bypassing the low refrigerant switch which engages the compressor clutch whether or not if its low. I was trying to figure why the ac was warm and the compressor was running... I ask myself why would the previous owner do this...
I also replaced the heater core ... I found the hoses that led from the coolant under the hood were cut and isolated from the cores.. By the time I'm done with this truck... It'll be brand new again!!
Today, the driver side strut came out and broke the tower it was mounted on (on the upper control arm).. FML....
Also noticed my "" BRAKE! "" light only comes on when the system does its self check. It didn't come on when I was low on brake fluid nor does it come on when the parking brake is engaged..
I'm also chasing a "low grade" misfire and have no codes. It stumbles in idle... While in idle, if I try to raise the rpm to 1500 by holding the pedal solid, it will "surge" to 1800 rpms and go back down to 1300 and will never hold steady at 1500rpm.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
