When replacing phasers how do I lock the camshaft?

[RoryTheFerret]

hello again,

So I'm replacing my phasers right now and saw a couple videos of people removing their rollers to prevent the cam from moving. I looked around and found that the 2v had a tool to prevent the cam from moving but I cant find it for a 3v.

I also was wondering why I can't simply loosen all the camshaft bolts so that it relieves the pressure caused by the springs. I'm more familiar working on Toyotas that don't use rollers at all so I wanted to get some input before I do anything.

PS: The engineers at Ford should be shot! They didn't make this car to be serviced. It's very evident that they only cared about the original assembly and not the enormous effort needed to access certain components.

 

[RoryTheFerret]

According to a write up on another forum, the guy stated that he did not have to worry about stress on the cam because of this...

A few things to note:

- You do not have to put the motor to TDC or anything since you aren't removing the cams themselves in this procedure
- Try not to run the truck immediately before doing this, this should (probably) keep the lash adjusters somewhat bled down and relieve tension on the cam

He also used a Vicegrip to hold the cam down, cleaver.

 

[69charged]

Use the vise grip method if nothing else. That sucker will jump on you pretty quick! I reinstalled everything with out the 3 followers on each side and it was JUST at the right spot to not spin on me. I agree that you may not have to put it at TDC or any of that, but you'll wish you had if it does jump or spin on you. If for some reason you can't figure out exactly where the cam was, then you'll have to time it and be very careful turning it to the right spot with that wedge tool in there or trying to turn it over without the chain coming off the bottom gear.
It's easy to put in the right spot, then pull the 3 followers per side vs the fun you'll have if that cam jumps on you!
Clarence

 

[RoryTheFerret]

I decided to just lift off the cam.

 

[69charged]

Good job.
Clarence

 

[69charged]

I see the front cover is off. Are you doing tensioners and guides as well?

 

[RoryTheFerret]

I see the front cover is off. Are you doing tensioners and guides as well?

Actually I am, I really took this off due to the chain rattle caused by a broken guide. I had to take off the oil pan to retrieve all the broken bits as well as clean the pickup screen.

I'm also doing upgrades...

$132 Cloyes Timing Kit (not using the plastic tensioners though)
$49 Metal Ratcheting Tensioners
$110 Melling Oil Pump
$130 New Phasers (Doreman?)

-I heard good things about cloyes timing stuff

-The metal ratcheting tensioners never fail

-I was thinking that most of this engines problems are caused by oil pressure. Since the engine is so sensitive to low oil pressure I was worried that if I kept this vehicle for a long time that eventually I'd regret not doing anything about the oil pump. I did some research and found that the stock ford pump is actually kinda weak and defective. As explained in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QPahVJJqFw&feature=youtu.be which demonstrates that the oil pump aluminum back plate flex is too great. My new Melling pump has a cast iron back plate which will only flex at around 5000 RPM, where as the stock pump starts to flex between 2000-3000 rpm. I'll have much stronger oil pressure to the system to keep the phasers and tensioners working properly hopefully indefinitely.

-I'm a bit worried about the phasers, I am buying some no name brand from amazon. It has 3 5 star reviews though. http://www.amazon.com/Phaser-Variable-Actuator-3R2Z6A257DA-3L3E6C524FA/dp/B0179ESUJM/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51OXCI6EKvL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0GHZBYKW1470ACJ7Y27J

 

[69charged]

Yeah I felt the same way. I looked at all the oil pump options, and in the end went with the Ford racing unit from tasca. The price was unreal. I was able to change the pump without taking off the pan. It was a little tricky to get at one bolt. I used the clothes kit. And used the plastic tensioners that were in the kit. They were better than the blown out stick ones with the crappy seal. I thought about using the metal ones from an older 2V, but oh well. Mine started out with a tick from under the valve cover. Turned out it was a seized roller. Took out the drivers side cam as well so I had to replace all rollers, lash adjusters, and phasers. I used Ford phasers from, again, tasca as I read a few not too cool stories of the dorman ones failing prematurely. Maybe they are different now. But, your a trained tech now on how to change them, so it will be nothing if something went wrong later!!!
Clarence.