Will my brake rotors need to be replaced at 60k?

[The Chairman]

My 2014 Navigator developed a pulsating pedal at about 45,000 miles, so I replaced the front rotors & pads.
Been fine ever since.
Good rotors are cheap at Rock Auto and it’s a simple DYI job.

 

[Joann D]

It varies substantially based on your driving patterns. If the vehicle is driven heavily loaded, more city driving, salt on road, heavy deceleration, etc. All will wear out the brakes sooner. Resurfacing removes material and may cause the rotors to get out of round more quickly. I just keep slapping new pads on until the rotor runout feels excessive or I don't like the stopping power. New rotors don't cost much, especially since I DIY. New pads will conform to the existing rotor after awhile. If a shop is pitching it, they should have the runout numbers. There's a spec for maximum runout before resurfacing the rotor.

My last expedition had to have breaks replaced every 3 years like clockwork...very low mileage, no hard stops, highway driving...let's hope my new one isn't the same!!

 

[Timo2824]

Ford Expy OEM rotors are known to warp and cause slight pulsing on soft braking and a vibration / shaking when hard braking (my 11, 14 and 17 all had this "undocumented feature" from early on (10K-15K) miles. I had the 2011 cut at 12,000 by Ford under warranty because it showed no pad wear. and it got new pads and rotors at 42,000mi. I had to cut the rotors at 60,000 because of the same issue reoccurring.

So, if you are experiencing this pulsing and shaking issue, the pads still have 50% or more life and the rotors have not been cut yet, I would get the rotors cut and it will resolve the issue. If you are having the issue and the pads are well worn, then replace both the pads and rotors. If you are not going to the dealer, then purchase premium pads and rotors and maybe they won't develop the shakes.

Warped rotors are usually caused by incorrectly tightening the lug nuts.

 

[GlennSullivan]

Warped rotors are usually caused by incorrectly tightening the lug nuts.

I torque mine with a torque wrench in a cross pattern, but I'm sure the dealer mechs that did warranty work on my trucks from time to time did not, just blasted them on with an air wrench in a circular pattern like a NASCAR pit crew, LOL

 

[Moeman]

I've never had a vehicle that was even close to needing rotors replaced at first pad change (typically 60k or). In the case of my 2016 F150, I had it at the dealer for another reason and they asked if I wanted rear pads replaced because they were low. I declined, but ordered some right away since I thought at 85k it might be time and I trusted their word. I found an awful lot of life left when I replaced them and rotors were perfectly smooth. I measured the fronts and they were well over min and also perfectly smooth. I'm doubtful you would need to replace them, but always best to measure. As far as resurfacing, if you don't feel vibration when braking, or if they are not severely grooved, I wouldn't. Other OEM vehicles I've owned even explicitly state in the manual not to resurface rotors. Either pads only or pads plus rotors.

 

[Samuel Street]

I did not have any of that just dealer said the brake pads were worn. There were some very slight grooves in the rotors that is the reason for resurfacing. They did not have an issue resurfacing them. But after the dealer did the brake job if I hit a big bump, I hear a rattle on the right front wheel. Also, with the windows down I hear a ticking sound when I apply the brakes.

 

[Samuel Street]

So, I found the rattle after fighting to remove the tire over tightened lug nuts! What they did not do is tighten the top bolt that holds in the caliper! See picture!

 

[GlennSullivan]

Did the bolt back itself out or did it snap off in the bracket?