Starting off fresh with a slightly used 1st Gen Expedition

[Foy57]

Gentlemen,
I just today signed the paperwork to purchase a 1999 Expedition XLT, 5.4, 4WD, 4R100 automatic, 3 row seating, 131,000 miles. Appears to be a solid unit--no tailpipe coating or smell of burning oil, full power, smooth-shifting 4R100, very smooth ride, good brakes, etc. Known issues are on again-off again low output heater (partially plugged-up heater core since the dealer's flush improved it some), flickering odometer, non-working rear glass wiper, some rust on the lower trailing arms. I'm figuring on the following immediate maintenance/service and would be grateful for any comments or suggestions:

Oil and filter change--I see the 5.4 capacity is 6.0 qts and that 5W-30 is recommended. Wondering if 10W-40 might be more appropriate with the miles on the 5.4 and the hot summer weather we have here in NC.

ATF change--The ATF is a very pale pink and while it doesn't smell burnt, it doesn't smell like new, clean ATF. My intuition says do a full system flush/refill, change the internal filter, and install a Magnefine in-line filter (if there is already a segment of rubber line within the cooling circuit). Despite the extra expense, I'd consider Mobil 1 full synthetic, which is what I've been running in my F350's 4R100. The '02 Superduty has 232,000 miles now and the 4R100 has never been gone in to, so I am high on the synthetic.

Front and rear diffs fluids changed--full synthetic gear fluid

Transfer case fluid change- full synthetic ATF

Cooling system flush--thinking maybe an aggressive flush now that the heater core is flowing at least partially may help break up the funk in there and buy some time for a heater core replacement. The truck has front and rear A/C and heat, w/ registers on both floor and panels. Does this truck have a second heater core for the rear unit? If so, is the second core alongside the first one? Any suggestions as to a particular cooling system flush-out chemical system much appreciated.

I'm seeing reference to one-row and two-row radiators. I suppose it's easy enough to look-see which I have, correct?

Replace air filter and PCV filter.

Replace fuel filter--looks as though some sort of fuel filter tool is required--correct?

Speaking of special tools, will I need a heater hose puller to get access to the heater core nipples?

Chassis lube--I'm not seeing zerks in the front suspension at the ball joints, control arms, etc. What chassis lube points should I be looking for?


The transmission selector lever is somewhat stiff and it moves between gears with a bit of difficulty. From reading here, I get the idea the cable gets bound up in its casing and may need to be replaced at some point. I don't suppose there's a ready way to lube the cable, is there?

This truck will be a daily driver for my son's 20 mile round-trip in-town commute and a weekender for him, his bride, and our first grandchild, due in March. I of course want it to be as right and safe as is possible, so any other suggestions much appreciated.

Foy

 

[stamp11127]

In today's world 131 isn't much. I'm using 10w30 in mine without any trouble - 270 on the clock.
Two heater cores, one in front the other is driver side rear by the tailgate. If the cooling system is rusted, as mine was when I bought it, I would replace the radiator, water pump and both heater cores. Did I have to, no. But since it was down anyway why not? I switched from the single row to the two row since they are the same size overall. Don't have to worry about not cooling enough when towing.
If your going to replace the heater core you can wiggle the hose connections and cause the tubing to break off at the core. No need for the tool. I replaced the hose ends with Gates quick connects. Easier than the Ford version to work with. If you go that route then you can break the bridge on the connector instead of trying to compress the tabs.

Odometer is easily removed, usual problem is cold solder joints or broken connections at the pins. Videos on that and the heater core on youtube.

If you do the core yourself, once the dash is moved back you can shoot some lithium grease down the cable. If it is really bad you can hit it with PB Blaster first to loosen it up then shoot the grease down.

 

[Stabber]

If you ever hear a ticking sound (exhaust leak) its about to blow a spark plug which is common on the triton motors. I need to flush my rear heater core since the hoses don't get hot. I think you are suppose to run 5w-20 but I switched to 5w-30 about 40k miles ago. It has always consumed a little oil so keep an eye on that. I've always been a Chevy guy but I LOVE our expedition.

 

[1997SCEBFEX]

Welcome.

Standard fuel-line tool to decouple from the fuel filter. You might have to spray the big hose clamp w/ some penetrant first as they sit on the frame rail and catch all the crap. You also need to depressurize the fuel system too, either by the schrader valve, or pulling the connector that is used for the reset following a collision. If you have a supplemental/auxilary fuel pump, you'd know if you did, you'd have to pull that fuse too. Then start it and let it die out. Others will chime in on their method so you can make an informed decision.

As far as the potentiality to blow a plug, our tell-tale sign was an occasional smell of gas no one could find. Had we only known.

If you have the LS rear, ensure you use the friction modifier. If you don't have to drop the pumpkin cover, you can siphon it out that way from the fill plug, then refill...yes on full synthetic and keep it in the house the night before so it smoothes out some as that 75-140W is thick.

Installing your Magnefine in-line filter on the line from the trans to the cooler should be the trick. That's where I put mine, a B&M though with the exterior magnets.

 

[sgtowing]

Welcome

Sent from my Galaxy SIII Using Tapatalk2

 

[BANGEREXPO76]

Your list just about covers it.
Start there and fix the rest as it arrives.
Goodluck with the truck.

 

[Foy57]

Blowing a spark plug

Gents,

Thanks for the welcome and the replies.

I have in fact read some (horror) stories about these Tritons blowing plugs. Is there a way to get out in front of that to prevent it (do the plugs just need to be checked and torqued regularly?). If not, what's the fix if she does blow one?

Lord Have Mercy, these spark plugs look hard to get to! But, the first one I looked at under the hood told me that. I guess it's the standard "the guy who designed it doesn't have to work on it" deal.

Foy57

 

[BANGEREXPO76]

The rear plugs are a PITA to get to. Just gotta be patient and use the proper extentions and sockets. Worse comes to worse take the throttle body off for more leeway.
As far as blowing a plug I have never had that happen so no experience there.
Torque those new plugs correctly and that truck is gonna run fine.

 

[Canadian Expy]

Gents,

Thanks for the welcome and the replies.

I have in fact read some (horror) stories about these Tritons blowing plugs. Is there a way to get out in front of that to prevent it (do the plugs just need to be checked and torqued regularly?). If not, what's the fix if she does blow one?

Lord Have Mercy, these spark plugs look hard to get to! But, the first one I looked at under the hood told me that. I guess it's the standard "the guy who designed it doesn't have to work on it" deal.

Foy57

Yoou can timesert every plug to make sure it never blows one, or like me wait till it blows one then fix it then. Only had one blow so far. Time sert is the only real fix!!
Yes they are a PIA to get at use lots of extensions and joints.