Getting no power to rear passenger Turn Signal & Hazard Socket

[bedrck46]

pull fuse #8 in the fuse box under dash and then check that pk/bk wire to see if it still has power to it

Does it have power at all times or just when the key is in the run/start position

If you follow A,B,C and E on the prints you will see they go in different directions and thru different connectors although they flash at the same time which is due to the switch position but either left or right, front or back the voltage travels on different paths

 

[HarveyCat]

The loose wire pk/bk has power even when no key is in the truck. I will try that fuse --I had checked fuse number 13 already.

Sent from my MK908 using Tapatalk

 

[HarveyCat]

Look at print C258 locate pin 5 and pin 9 turn key to on and check to operate turn signals see if you have voltage on pin 5 to ground and then pin 9 to ground

Thanks you nailed it -- wires coming out of plastic connector at multi-function switch -- not sure how to fix it though. If I stick them in it all works. I would like to find a new part number e6db14489-da -- or maybe I will try super glue -- haha

Here is a picture off the web of the connector



NAPA has the part
Headlight Dimmer Switch Connector
Product Number: ECH EC124
Quantity: 1
Price: $16.83

 

[HarveyCat]

The loose wire pk/bk has power even when no key is in the truck. I will try that fuse --I had checked fuse number 13 already.

Thanks for all the help! Just to cover all points brought up in this thread -- I found out from another source that the loose wire (PK/BK) is just the key in ignition alarm -- and it is fine to leave it not connected.

 

[HarveyCat]

One last need for advice -- there are 2 Wires coming out of connector - (it is my multi-function switch but could apply to any connector) -- everything still looks good -- and works when pushed together -- it is just that these 2 wires keep coming out -- is there an easy fix it? JB Weld or Super glue? Napa has the connector (ec124) with pigtails -- so in the worse case -- I will go buy that and put it on.

 

[bedrck46]

you could use some rtv silicone just make sure that you don't get it on the contact surface

 

[HarveyCat]

you could use some rtv silicone just make sure that you don't get it on the contact surface

Is that better than 2 part epoxy -- or liquid nails -- I have both of those things. Is it better since it would be more rubbery (forgiving) when putting the connector on or off in the future? I have clear roofing silicone also -- think that might work?

 

[bedrck46]

clear would work was just thinking if it had to be removed There should be some sort of a locking clip on the metal part see if that is there or maybe it can be pried out. That should lock in place when inserted in the connector

 

[HarveyCat]

clear would work was just thinking if it had to be removed There should be some sort of a locking clip on the metal part see if that is there or maybe it can be pried out. That should lock in place when inserted in the connector

Thanks for all the help -- I think those clips were molded into the plastic -- and they are what has failed -- I was planning to put it all together and make sure it all works -- then put in 2 part epoxy with a needleless hypodermic needle -- (but may use the clear silicone) -- my fall back is that I will get one of those Napa connectors and will use it if this ever fails....

 

[bedrck46]

at least its working and you know the cure Good Luck

 

[HarveyCat]

Yes -- and again thanks very much!

 

[HarveyCat]

I decided to try a hot glue gun powered by an inverter plugged into my cig lighter -- I have both handy -- at least I am not this guy who took out all the wires and forgot where they go -- here is that link for anyone in the future who is reading this thread -- maybe this info will also come in handy -- ( Of course bedrck46 already covered all this in the great scans he provided! )

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/679h4-ford-sport-trac-2003-ford-sport-track-blinker.html

 

[stamp11127]

The next time you run into a spade connector that will not stay seated in the plug you have a few options instead of "jury" rigging the repair. A loose connection here can burn the plug, the harness or vehicle from an overheating connection. This is one of the causes of turn signal switch failures we see where I work,

1) Pry the locking tab up more to catch the stop in the plug
2) If the tab is broken off replace the spade connector
3) Reduce the opening on the female portion where the male slips into it. You end up with a slight interference fit between the two.