Fuse to tap dashcam?

[marlinpruett]

That looks cool but would it fit in that compartment behind the mirror? I like the tapping the wire behind the mirror idea but my camera doesn’t run 12v either. I’d rather do the work myself because in the past I’ve hired this out and it was a hatchet job but it was on a company car and I could expense it. On my personal ride I won’t handle less than the best and sometimes that means doing it yourself.

I put it under the head liner. You can't tell it's there.When I mounted my camera I ran a 12 volt wire from the fuse panel( switched) the to the voltage reducer the to thamera.

 

[Artie]

i didnt think there was power in the mirror. it doesnt have a power wire going to it like others. if it does, it is run down the mounting neck.

if so, this would be perfect, i would cut the end off of a usb cable, drill a small hole to get usb wire from camera to inside mirror, make necessary splices to power converter and be done. i think the wire is going to have to go to the overhead console, which theoretically could be just as easy.

Check out this thread about power up by the mirror (not really power to the mirror, sorry)

https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/radar-detector-mirror-wiring.36557/

 

[Artie]

I put it under the head liner. You can't tell it's there.When I mounted my camera I ran a 12 volt wire from the fuse panel( switched) the to the voltage reducer the to thamera.

I’ll check and see how the headliner is attached in my Navi, I assume it’s the same or similar since I didn’t get the black label that has the suede headliner. Hiding it up there and tapping off power in the upper console behind the mirror would be the easiest way I think.

 

[edizzle]

I’ll check and see how the headliner is attached in my Navi, I assume it’s the same or similar since I didn’t get the black label that has the suede headliner. Hiding it up there and tapping off power in the upper console behind the mirror would be the easiest way I think.

behind mirror? are you talking about the black plastic cover on the glass or the actual overhead console ABOVE mirror, just clarifying.

 

[Jeka]

did you notice in the manual the 6 and 7 are not used (spare) slots....looks like there is a fuse in that slot...why did you not use that spare???in trying to figure out how im going to wire my headrest monitors

Fuses 6 and 7 are Micro3 type, I had Micro2 fuse tap, which came with my dash cam. Didn't want to bother buying another one

 

[Artie]

behind mirror? are you talking about the black plastic cover on the glass or the actual overhead console ABOVE mirror, just clarifying.

Yes, that’s what I’m talking about. There is another poster who got power from that area.

 

[Tocapet]

Best way: Install your own fuse panel and run a heavy wire to the battery Protect that with a 20A inline fuse. From there you can power everything you want with individual fuses for each. Control your added panel with a relay that activates whenever the ignition is on. Tap in anywhere on your truck's fuse panel for a low current to activate the relay. Problem solved! When you trade in your truck later, you can remove it and install it in your new ride.

 

[idesi1]

Here is mine setup. Main concern was high current for steering wheel heater and dash cam battery pack which charges at 9A and came with 20A fuse (20A + 20A). Because of the shape of fuse box I couldn't push the tap all the way down. Cannot say the connection was loose or flimsy, but just not full enough - which bothered me for some time. Finally I took the panels off and checked connections when both were at full power - temperature didn't go above 47C (ambient was ~17C). Considering I will use steering wheel heater mostly in winter - that should be good. Keep in mind that fuse tap orientation matters - fuses should be connected in parallel and not in series which could burn the bottom fuse in the fuse tap.


I am assuming u used "MINI Fuse Add a circuit adapter" for the DIY.
just wanna make sure before I order mine for the DIY project.

TIA

 

[TX-EXPMAX]

Ok, so this is a bit ridiculous, but this is what happens when you start and stop a project. Does the fuse panel itself have a cover on it? I had taken the kick panel off once to look in there then got distracted and didn’t go back to the radar hard wire work I was doing until today. Aside from the kick panel, I can’t find any fuse panel cover. Can’t remember if there was one there to begin with or not or if it got thrown away‍

 

[idesi1]

Here is mine setup. Main concern was high current for steering wheel heater and dash cam battery pack which charges at 9A and came with 20A fuse (20A + 20A). Because of the shape of fuse box I couldn't push the tap all the way down. Cannot say the connection was loose or flimsy, but just not full enough - which bothered me for some time. Finally I took the panels off and checked connections when both were at full power - temperature didn't go above 47C (ambient was ~17C). Considering I will use steering wheel heater mostly in winter - that should be good. Keep in mind that fuse tap orientation matters - fuses should be connected in parallel and not in series which could burn the bottom fuse in the fuse tap.


Excellent info on the dashcam install.
I am almost done but since I have dual cam (blackvue) i am bit confused on the rear camera mount. Since the rear lift gate extends up.
If anyone has a dual cam set up and can post some pics here it would be really helpful