No Crank No Start Condition - Resolved

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juan214

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When the starter was bench tested the second time I did see the drive gear extend out and the starter spin. That was why I did a second test Advance has no cover on their machine.

No Start option on this charger and tried jumping it and nothing.

Is this the same reading from post #16?
  • The voltage at Battery Posts: 12.20 at rest 11.89 on start
Disconnected charger:
  • The voltage at Battery Posts: 12.98 at rest 12.36 on start then returns
  • The voltage at Battery Posts: 12.70 at rest 12.20 on start then returns
Battery Analyzer
  • Test 1: 12.44 volts 4.55 mΩ 581 / 750 CCA
  • Test 2: 12.59 volts 4.40 mΩ 601 / 750 CCA
Test 1A.JPG

Test 1B.JPG

Test 2A.JPG

Test 2B.JPG

Cable Temp Test
  • The voltage at Battery Posts: 12.71 at rest 12.19 on start while holding in start position for 30 seconds then returns to 12.46ish
  • No temperature change on cable.

 
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juan214

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No switch got wire though, what do I need

It's like the starter is not getting power or enough power to spin.

When I disconnect the battery is charged at almost 14 volts

Fusible Liks:
  • + Post to + Cable after Clamp: 0.000 at rest 0.004 on start
  • + Post to + Cable before links: 0.000 at rest 0.004 on start
  • + Post to at link ends: 0.000 at rest 0.004 on start
  • + Post to + Cable after links: -0.001 at rest then 0.007 on start.
 
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1955moose

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24 of the furry beasts now, or is it 25?

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1955moose

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Hey Juan do you have another battery to drop in the expedition for now?

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juan214

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Hey Juan do you have another battery to drop in the expedition for now?

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Thought of that already had one and dropped it off at AutoZone for a charge yesterday. Then dropped this one off at Advance Auto for an hour charge. Left the DIEHARD (get it) overnight and called them an hour ago they said it was junk.

This battery comes back on my (POS) analyzer at 580 of 750 CCA regularly and 80% charged and Advance Auto said it had 680 on theirs.

I tested the fusible links in the meantime they passed.

I disconnected the 12v cable from the starter ran jumper cables direct from the positive battery post to the starter motor post. Grounded the body with other cable and connect it to the negative post. Then connected a small gauge wire a clip to solenoid post gave it juice from the positive post and nothing except a faint click at starter and arcing at the battery as stated in post #1

Here's a question are they putting more than 12v to the starter when testing
 
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stamp11127

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This isn't adding up. What you have just stated indicates a shorted starter. But the auto parts stores said it passed. Do you witness the bench test?

Once the final connection was made at the starter or battery the starter should have started cranking. There is no need to mess with the firewall solenoid at that point - you have bypassed it.

Testers can vary - they will use a combination of voltage and amperage.

Are you using Harbor Freight jumper cables? I use 2 sets at the college for teaching bench testing of starters. They are such POS that the starters never pass the test. The students then get hands on experience of using vd to find the problem(s).
 
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juan214

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This isn't adding up. What you have just stated indicates a shorted starter. But the auto parts stores said it passed. Do you witness the bench test?
I know, yes I saw the PASS screen at AutoZone heard it spin. He added that that would be without the load of the engine and tranny. I took it the next day to Advance and had them check it before I put it back in. I wanted to see if the drive gear kicked out and see it spin. They have no cover on their machine so you can see it
 
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