stamp11127
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Does your meter have a continuity setting? If you don't know, which make/model is it?
04 Navi No Start-No Crank No PWR to OBD
- Thread starter 03NavigatorGuy
- Start date
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stamp11127
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Which one do you want to work on next? I'll need the wiring diagrams for what you choose.
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03NavigatorGuy
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I am using this one at the moment!
stamp11127
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Continuity setting is the first yellow one to the right of 200 ohms resistance.
Be careful with that meter "10A max unfused" means it burns/explodes if overloaded.
Be careful with that meter "10A max unfused" means it burns/explodes if overloaded.
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03NavigatorGuy
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Yes, Thanks, I lent my good one to my brother, haven't gotten it back yet!
I will now let the dumb questions begin!
In checking the continuity of the of the ignition switch, am I to test from the switch to the CJB or where?
stamp11127
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Switch disconnected. Testing input/output at the switch:
pin 4 to 7 in start
pin 4 to 6 in accessory and run
pin 4 to 1 in run and start
Each test should tone when the circuit path is good. Any that fails means a bad switch.
pin 4 to 7 in start
pin 4 to 6 in accessory and run
pin 4 to 1 in run and start
Each test should tone when the circuit path is good. Any that fails means a bad switch.
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03NavigatorGuy
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They all appear to have power as required.
stamp11127
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Then you don't need another ignition switch. They are not supposed to have power during the test, just continuity.
The continuity test is a resistance test, under a specific threshold of resistance you will get a tone from your meter. Above the threshold you will get no tone but a measurement of resistance. This test requires the circuit being tested to be unpowered - the meter provides the power. Try running a continuity test on a high voltage circuit with power present is a recipe for disaster.
You can add a replacement wire from pin 7 at the ignition switch plug to pin 11 of the cjb plug. Cut the wire about 4-5 inches from each plug, solder and heat shrink wrap the splice. When you run the wire avoid any metal contact and zip tie in place once the connections are complete.
The continuity test is a resistance test, under a specific threshold of resistance you will get a tone from your meter. Above the threshold you will get no tone but a measurement of resistance. This test requires the circuit being tested to be unpowered - the meter provides the power. Try running a continuity test on a high voltage circuit with power present is a recipe for disaster.
You can add a replacement wire from pin 7 at the ignition switch plug to pin 11 of the cjb plug. Cut the wire about 4-5 inches from each plug, solder and heat shrink wrap the splice. When you run the wire avoid any metal contact and zip tie in place once the connections are complete.
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riphip
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Where in Memphis are you? I'm on west edge of Gtown.
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03NavigatorGuy
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I am on the East edge!
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03NavigatorGuy
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I replaced the Neutral safety switch AKA: Transmission Range Sensor, and after doing so. The engine will not start in either park and/or neutral. Is there another sensor that is now blocking this from happening?
NOTE: With the "new" temp wire, the transmission selector indicator illuminates, the brake release for the transmission now works again, and so do the turn signals.
NOTE: With the "new" temp wire, the transmission selector indicator illuminates, the brake release for the transmission now works again, and so do the turn signals.
stamp11127
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There is a procedure to follow in lining up the range selector to the neutral position. Did you follow it?
Ahhh... the importance of only working on one issue at a time...
Ahhh... the importance of only working on one issue at a time...
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03NavigatorGuy
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Yes, I lined up the line with the selector in neutral.
stamp11127
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If you replaced it with a Ford part the service manual says to use a special tool. You may be able to adjust it by checking continuity with the plug disconnected between pins 10 & 12 in both park and neutral.
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03NavigatorGuy
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My bad, I forgot to plug the ignition switch back in . It starts in park now!
stamp11127
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What is next on the list?
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03NavigatorGuy
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Sometimes I get OBDII to connect to my scanner, and sometimes it doesn't. For example yesterday I got my scanner to read the codes, and today I went to clear them and it wouldn't connect.
stamp11127
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You'll need the diagrams that show the DLC on them, usually the power distribution diagrams have it. Check the engine controls diagrams, sometimes it is on them also.
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03NavigatorGuy
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Okay, here is what I have, I hope they are "somewhat" legible!
Hamfisted
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Here's a DLC pin out diagram. Does your DTC scan tool light up when you plug it into the Expy's OBDII port ? It should, even without the ignition key on. It won't read any codes unless the key is on, but it should at least light up and come to life. I think it's fuse 41 if you're not getting any power at the OBD port. What brand is your reader ? Is it hardwired? or one of those Bluetooth type ?
With your volt meter measure pin 16, should be 12v or battery voltage. Check that pin 4 and pin 5 have less than 5 ohm resistance to ground.
With your volt meter measure pin 16, should be 12v or battery voltage. Check that pin 4 and pin 5 have less than 5 ohm resistance to ground.
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03NavigatorGuy
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Yes, I have always gotten power from 16, even when other things were getting power. The problem is the it won't communicate with the scanner, and sometimes it will, but usually it won't!
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