Compression test 01 Navigator

[Fordgirl01]

I will be sure to keep you posted!


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[Fordgirl01]

I finally started working again on the 01 Navi today. I should probably start a new thread for the progress since this one is getting pretty old. I removed the hood to make things a bit easier this time and cleaned up the block to get ready to put the head back on. I sure hope I can remember how to reassemble it!!


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[Tommie]

Just read through this amazing thread! Please don't start a new one the info here will be great for those that need help down the road. Congrats on having the guts to tackle this and looking forward to you getting the truck running again.

Def use new head bolts and I'd use a Melling timing gear set and oil pump just to make sure that's bullet proof. I'm assuming you are using new exhaust mani studs.

 

[Fordgirl01]

I have new head bolts. I’m not comfortable replacing any of the timing stuff. I was not able to get it at TDC when I took the head off bc I had a rope stuck down in a sparkplug hole. I tried the “rope trick” to hold the valve when I took the spring off. The rope knotted up as I was trying to remove it and got hopelessly stuck in there. So I marked everything on the timing gears and chain and zip tied anything together that I could so I can hopefully get it back where it was when I took everything apart.

I never thought of replacing manifold studs. I didn’t take the manifold off of the head and the studs and nuts look to be in good shape. The vehicle is from Arizona, so the nasty rust I am used to dealing with isn’t a factor!

Thanks for the comments. At least I know the old thread is not yet irrelevant! I will keep posting here now I know someone is still reading it.


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[Fordgirl01]

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[Trainmaster]

It's pretty incredible how those manifold bolts look. Here the nuts would be indistinguishable in a 2011. They'd be just a blob of rust.

 

[Fordgirl01]

Yeah-here too! This vehicle was from Arizona, but it’s not now!!


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[riphip]

At least since you can get to the exhaust manifold nuts, remove 1 at a time, apply anti-seize & retorque nuts.

Amazingly Great Job

 

[Hamfisted]

Remember to use some assembly lube on the cam bearing surfaces and lobes to prevent a dry start up. It's good to take an oil squirt can and squirt motor oil on any moving parts too. Like the timing chains and guides, cylinder walls, rocker arms, etc.... I would leave the crankshaft position sensor unplugged and just crank the motor for a minute to get the oil pressure up and oil cavities full, before actually starting the motor. Leave the sparkplugs out until you get the heads and timing gear back together to make it easier to rotate the crankshaft by hand to make sure timing is correct and there's no piston on valve interference issue. Then install and properly torque the sparkplugs. If you did not pull the drain plugs out of the sides of the block before removing the heads, you may very well have coolant in your oil pan, and this requires an oil change before ever cranking the motor. You don't want to introduce coolant into the oil passages. Drain the oil, and if you do in fact see water (it'll come out first before the oil...) spray some brake cleaner into the oil pan after you think all the oil is out, just to help flush any more water out. The brake cleaner will quickly evaporate and won't affect your new oil. I might've missed it in your previous posts, but I Melling High Volume oil pump upgrade is highly recommended too.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lincoln,2001,navigator,5.4l+v8,1434768,engine,oil+pump,5564

 

[riphip]

Remember to use some assembly lube on the cam bearing surfaces and lobes to prevent a dry start up. It's good to take an oil squirt can and squirt motor oil on any moving parts too. Like the timing chains and guides, cylinder walls, rocker arms, etc.... I would leave the crankshaft position sensor unplugged and just crank the motor for a minute to get the oil pressure up and oil cavities full, before actually starting the motor. Leave the sparkplugs out until you get the heads and timing gear back together to make it easier to rotate the crankshaft by hand to make sure timing is correct and there's no piston on valve interference issue. Then install and properly torque the sparkplugs. If you did not pull the drain plugs out of the sides of the block before removing the heads, you may very well have coolant in your oil pan, and this requires an oil change before ever cranking the motor. You don't want to introduce coolant into the oil passages. Drain the oil, and if you do in fact see water (it'll come out first before the oil...) spray some brake cleaner into the oil pan after you think all the oil is out, just to help flush any more water out. The brake cleaner will quickly evaporate and won't affect your new oil.

Excellent assembly procedure advice!!

 

[Fordgirl01]

Remember to use some assembly lube on the cam bearing surfaces and lobes to prevent a dry start up. It's good to take an oil squirt can and squirt motor oil on any moving parts too. Like the timing chains and guides, cylinder walls, rocker arms, etc.... I would leave the crankshaft position sensor unplugged and just crank the motor for a minute to get the oil pressure up and oil cavities full, before actually starting the motor. Leave the sparkplugs out until you get the heads and timing gear back together to make it easier to rotate the crankshaft by hand to make sure timing is correct and there's no piston on valve interference issue. Then install and properly torque the sparkplugs. If you did not pull the drain plugs out of the sides of the block before removing the heads, you may very well have coolant in your oil pan, and this requires an oil change before ever cranking the motor. You don't want to introduce coolant into the oil passages. Drain the oil, and if you do in fact see water (it'll come out first before the oil...) spray some brake cleaner into the oil pan after you think all the oil is out, just to help flush any more water out. The brake cleaner will quickly evaporate and won't affect your new oil. I might've missed it in your previous posts, but I Melling High Volume oil pump upgrade is highly recommended too.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lincoln,2001,navigator,5.4l+v8,1434768,engine,oil+pump,5564

Thank you for this. I did plan on an oil change and you touched on some things that I was going to ask and also things I would not have thought of!


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[Hamfisted]

Also you might replace the crankshaft position sensor there on the timing cover before you reinstall the cover ( Motorcraft DY922 ). It's a lot easier that way, rather than fighting with the AC compressor if it goes bad in the future. Make sure to clean out the harness plug with some contact cleaner or brake cleaner because the way they mount they collect grime over the years. Once it's cleaned out apply a little dielectric grease to it before you plug it back in. That'll help keep moisture out of it and prevent hard starting or no starting problems later on.

 

[Fordgirl01]

Also you might replace the crankshaft position sensor there on the timing cover before you reinstall the cover ( Motorcraft DY922 ). It's a lot easier that way, rather than fighting with the AC compressor if it goes bad in the future. Make sure to clean out the harness plug with some contact cleaner or brake cleaner because the way they mount they collect grime over the years. Once it's cleaned out apply a little dielectric grease to it before you plug it back in. That'll help keep moisture out of it and prevent hard starting or no starting problems later on.

Another great piece of advice! Thank you.


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[Tommie]

I know the timing procedure seems overwhelming ford girl but this is a rare chance to do the job and It isn't too bad with some of the videos on it, the standard melling pump is cheap and better than OEM, BUT the high volume is more but with you having an extra set of cams and more running gear on the top end it would probably be highly recommended, just remember to check over and over that you don't have any piston to valve clearance issues before you throw the key in and start it...Hand crank over and over. I'll see if I can find a few good videos for you

 

[Fordgirl01]

Melling High Volume oil pump upgrade is highly recommended too.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lincoln,2001,navigator,5.4l+v8,1434768,engine,oil+pump,5564[/QUOTE]


Just to be sure...this is the pump you are talking about-correct?

 

[Hamfisted]

Do you have a set of Gearwrench Flexhead Ratchet wrenches already ? You'll need a 8mm Flexhead wrench to get the bolts in and out on that oil pump unless you drop the oil pan. It's a huge PITA anyway you look at it.


https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-9...254744&sprefix=Gearwrench+8mm+,aps,196&sr=8-9

 

[Fordgirl01]

Do you have a set of Gearwrench Flexhead Ratchet wrenches already ? You'll need a 8mm Flexhead wrench to get the bolts in and out on that oil pump unless you drop the oil pan. It's a huge PITA anyway you look at it.


https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-9...254744&sprefix=Gearwrench+8mm+,aps,196&sr=8-9

Yes-I have a good assortment of those. I don’t know how I ever lived without them!!


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[Tommie]

Just make sure its the 8mm with the head that swivels...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...812GO&linkId=643c3c57a0aad4c3add579d9abac5c4c

Here is a guy that does the 2v timing set, yours is different obviously for timing purposes but some for the oil pump:


Edit: And yes that's the correct high flow oil pump

 

[Fordgirl01]

Just make sure its the 8mm with the head that swivels...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...812GO&linkId=643c3c57a0aad4c3add579d9abac5c4c

Here is a guy that does the 2v timing set, yours is different obviously for timing purposes but some for the oil pump:


Edit: And yes that's the correct high flow oil pump

Thank you-and yes I have a few different swivel 8mm!


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[Fordgirl01]

Question about cleaning the surfaces on the block and head where the head gasket will be:

Of course the service manual recommends motorcraft metal surface prep which contains orthophosphoric acid. This stuff seems rather hard to find and really pricey. What do you guys use?

There are other cleaners that contain phosphoric acid such as naval jelly. Is the acid necessary? I have the surfaces nice and clean with no gasket residue left.


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