Rear Sway bar?

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techdude99

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Yeah, my comments are very subjective. It would be nice if the suspension communicated the road without waking up my babies when we're on road trips is MS and AL.

When it comes to feeling the road, my '19 ZL1 1LE is pretty close to a street legal track car so I get it.

Looking forward to trying out the front bar.
 

Alwaysthinkin

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Yeah, my comments are very subjective. It would be nice if the suspension communicated the road without waking up my babies when we're on road trips is MS and AL.

When it comes to feeling the road, my '19 ZL1 1LE is pretty close to a street legal track car so I get it.

Looking forward to trying out the front bar.

Nice reminder that we all have different needs from our vehicles. Past babies, for the moment, in the family. Granddaughter is 14 and learning to drive. Hope you find a great combination that lets those babies sleep tight!
 

techdude99

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For those with the front sway bar and the 4x4 drive-train with OEM towing package, are there any clearance issues?
 

techdude99

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Perfect. The front bar just shipped today, 30 days from the original order date with Summit.

Hopefully it arrives as scheduled so I can install it this weekend.
 

Alwaysthinkin

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I realize this isn't my rear sway bar, but it's my front end links. I did the Energy Suspension kit (part number 9.8121G) on the front. These things are nice and beefy and I like that they have polyurethane bushings top and bottom of each connection. Now technically I had to modify them a bit, the bolts are the right length but the bushings are so stiff, that I couldn't actually get the nut on the top (because there was no good way of compressing them enough), so I ended up cutting about 3/4" off of each of the metal spacers that go in the center. This actually lined up the bar a little better too (more parallel). If I had to do it again, I would have only cut 1/2" off, this means a decent amount of threads are exposed on top unfortunately once you crank it down. An alternative would have been to get longer bolts but I couldn't find 9" by 3//8"/16 grade 5 or 8 bolts anywhere near me.

Here's a before and after. So far I like it, took it for a drive, no knocks or noises yet, will recheck nut tightness in a couple days. Way stronger than the stock stuff.

View attachment 39913
View attachment 39912

So, @5280tunage, do you still like the Energy End Links? Is 1/2" still the recommended amount to cut before installing? I'm asking because my front sway bar just arrived and I already have the Energy end links but haven't modified yet. Appreciate your input.
 

5280tunage

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@Alwaysthinkin so far they've been great, no issues at all. Half inch was perfect for me but basically, the method I used to check the length was leaving one end of the bar connected via factory end link, on a flat level surface. I then did my best to measure the distance between the inside surface of the control o
Arm and the bottom of the sway bar bolt hole. Then, I went to my bench, assembled the end to figure out how much to cut off. It also helped to cut off half an inch so there is more bolt threads to work with.

I will say, my bar was back to screeching. Since I had to adjust some exhaust clamps, I cleaned and regreased it.
 

DWs-TTEB

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@Alwaysthinkin I did the same as tunage, during install I used a silicone based lube (for brake parts rubber boots) never had a squeak to date (installed in mid March 2021). I cut off 1/2" of the center sleeve. 2 wks ago while installing bilstein struts I cleaned & re-lubed them. No noise from them at all.
 

Alwaysthinkin

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@Alwaysthinkin I did the same as tunage, during install I used a silicone based lube (for brake parts rubber boots) never had a squeak to date (installed in mid March 2021). I cut off 1/2" of the center sleeve. 2 wks ago while installing bilstein struts I cleaned & re-lubed them. No noise from them at all.

Thanks @5280tunage and @DWs-TTEB for both your responses. Not sure when I'll get the bar installed but I should be all set (also got ramps). Then I'll recheck the rear bar to make sure it is correctly torqued. Must admit, I'm kind of excited to take it for a spin when all done!
 

techdude99

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My FSB is stuck on a FedEx truck until Monday. So much for the weekend install. Hopefully I'll be able to do the front like the rear, without ramps or a lift.

With the crappy roads around here I'm going to start researching smaller wheels so I can have more sidewall.

I'm confident both bars with new wheels and tires will be the right combination for my situation.
 
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Deadman

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My FSB is stuck on a FedEx truck until Monday. So much for the weekend install. Hopefully I'll be able to do the front like the rear, without ramps or a lift.

With the crappy roads around here I'm going to start researching smaller wheels so I can have more sidewall.

I'm confident both bars with new wheels and tires will be the right combination for my situation.

More sidewall will make it wander on the road more if you like that. I agree it will ride better tho...
 

techdude99

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More sidewall will make it wander on the road more if you like that. I agree it will ride better tho...
True. I just need a little more to absorb the impacts. I don't mind stiff sidewalls in a track car or decent roads but they aren't practical around here.

Look what was just left at my door :)c233d31ae8dba3d2ae4fb0fbd78162c0.jpg
 
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techdude99

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@Alwaysthinkin I will say, my bar was back to screeching. Since I had to adjust some exhaust clamps, I cleaned and regreased it.
It's normal to lube Poly Urethane bushings every 1-3 years, depending on use and weather. Zerc grease fittings are nice and easy to install if you don't want to remove the bushings every time.
 

5280tunage

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Agreed but the way these are designed, you really couldn't use a zerc, since the part that needs grease is around the bar. I looked around for different bushings and never found any the right diameter. I guess you could try to drill a hole, add a zerc, and drill a hole through the bushing where the zerc is.
 

TheDoug

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Rear sway bar installed today with the moog end links...

Super easy install. Didn't even bother putting it in air, just crawled under and did it.

So far on my first short trip to gas station it was good... it did not seem any rougher on the city streets. Rear felt better
 

Alwaysthinkin

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Agreed but the way these are designed, you really couldn't use a zerc, since the part that needs grease is around the bar. I looked around for different bushings and never found any the right diameter. I guess you could try to drill a hole, add a zerc, and drill a hole through the bushing where the zerc is.

Saw a video where they were using teflon tape to eliminate squeaks on polyurethane bushings. What are the points on the Energy end links that create the squeaking sound?

found the video
 
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5280tunage

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It's the inside diameter of the bushing, coming in contact with the bar itself. The trouble is, it's not sealed, so dirt/water will get in there, and wear the grease down. I use a very good mechanical grease that's waterproof from Mobil1 and it still goes bad ever few months. Zercs halp a lot by pushing the dirt back out.
 
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