Adding Sunroof

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expy01

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I recently came across a 2001 Eddie Bauer on marketplace with a new paint job and great interior but doesn’t run. I currently own a 01 XLT and plan to swap the panels from the EB to my xlt, I noticed the EB has a sunroof and I wanted to know if it was possible to add the sunroof to my xlt ? If it is possible what are my options going about it ?
 

jr1under

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Gotta admit, I didn't know there was such a thing as a Gen1 sunroof.
 

kep5niner

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Over 20 years ago I added a pop-up sun roof to my ‘99 Ranger. It’s doable. Let a quality shop take on the project. It was about $500 back then, so now I suppose it’d be about eleventy-billion dollars :p
 

drankinatty

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Anything is doable -- but whether it is wise or recommended may be another question entirely. You will want to read through the Rusted A-pillar https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/rusted-a-pillar.58986/ post and consider whether there may be any structural drain-path differences between the structure of vehicles with factory sunroofs and those without (I don't know, and I don't know whether anything other than the original design logs would be conclusive on the question)

Good luck if you attempt it. As for me, after 12 years of non-leaking, and 8 years of fighting leaking sunroofs on my 2nd gen EB 4x4 expedition, I know I'd not buy another. (at the time the EB came with it, plus the full kids DVD entertainment package - that was on the wife's must have list with kids of 6, 3 and newborn at the time...)

As the pictures and description in the linked thread makes clear, the drains are integrated into the body with the actual rubber drain tube draining behind panels with openings to allow the water to exit the vehicle through the bottom of the panels. I've yet to find a good routing diagram for the four corner-drains exiting from the sunroof itself. The thread makes clear the front drains route through the A-pillars and the rears through the C-pillars. Doing that with anything less than a full frame-up build may be an exercise in futility. But I'm older and more conservative now.

45 years ago it was nothing to turn cars with automatic transmissions in 4-speeds street rods, big-blocks to small-block swaps, steel cranks, custom ground cams, port and polish and port-matching on intake/heads, tunnel rams, etc.. All the things gear-head teenagers thought about and could afford when a $5 bill could cover an oil change with filter, and a $10 bill could cover 8 plugs, a cap, rotor and 2 sets of points for the dual-point distributors. (individual points dwell of 26 deg, combined for 32 deg) `:)` Funny what stays locked away in memory forever....
 

BigOleFordFan

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This would not, IMHO, be a job for any casual DIY'er, and would therefore HIGHLY recommend getting a specialty shop to do it...

But OTOH, I would not really consider putting that kind of cash into a Gen 1 truck either, especially something that could cause all sorts of problems if not done 100% correctly, so there's that :D
 

Fastcar

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A sun roof??? Have you not read of the water leaks, plugged drains and so on? They are a big pia imo. I have had them on most every car/truck I've owned for the past 20 years. They suck to the point that since around 2014 I've put tape over the switch so nobody will open it. I hate them! But you are almost forced to buy them as come from the factory on about every model. The only way not to have problems is not use them.
 

Fastcar

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Just to comment on the 45 years ago. Used big block points on small block chevies as the points wouldn't bounce a quickly as the spring was stronger. Good for a few hundred rpm's.
 

BigOleFordFan

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A sun roof??? Have you not read of the water leaks, plugged drains and so on? They are a big pia imo. I have had them on most every car/truck I've owned for the past 20 years. They suck to the point that since around 2014 I've put tape over the switch so nobody will open it. I hate them! But you are almost forced to buy them as come from the factory on about every model. The only way not to have problems is not use them.
Well, my '011 EL has a factory sunroof, which I use frequently, neveranottaproblemo :D

Maybe I'm just lucky ???

But I have read of the issues with them, so I feel fortunate in that regard. Perhaps if the OP installs one or has a shop do it, they could do it in such a was as to avoid any issues ? Just a thought....
 

Grrumpy

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If you must add an opening in the roof, at least do it right.........
 

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jr1under

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I recently came across a 2001 Eddie Bauer on marketplace with a new paint job and great interior but doesn’t run. I currently own a 01 XLT and plan to swap the panels from the EB to my xlt, I noticed the EB has a sunroof and I wanted to know if it was possible to add the sunroof to my xlt ? If it is possible what are my options going about it ?
If it's economically reasonable, sounds like your best option for a good-looking Gen1 with a sunroof could be to get the EB running.
 
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expy01

expy01

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Anything is doable -- but whether it is wise or recommended may be another question entirely. You will want to read through the Rusted A-pillar https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/rusted-a-pillar.58986/ post and consider whether there may be any structural drain-path differences between the structure of vehicles with factory sunroofs and those without (I don't know, and I don't know whether anything other than the original design logs would be conclusive on the question)

Good luck if you attempt it. As for me, after 12 years of non-leaking, and 8 years of fighting leaking sunroofs on my 2nd gen EB 4x4 expedition, I know I'd not buy another. (at the time the EB came with it, plus the full kids DVD entertainment package - that was on the wife's must have list with kids of 6, 3 and newborn at the time...)

As the pictures and description in the linked thread makes clear, the drains are integrated into the body with the actual rubber drain tube draining behind panels with openings to allow the water to exit the vehicle through the bottom of the panels. I've yet to find a good routing diagram for the four corner-drains exiting from the sunroof itself. The thread makes clear the front drains route through the A-pillars and the rears through the C-pillars. Doing that with anything less than a full frame-up build may be an exercise in futility. But I'm older and more conservative now.

45 years ago it was nothing to turn cars with automatic transmissions in 4-speeds street rods, big-blocks to small-block swaps, steel cranks, custom ground cams, port and polish and port-matching on intake/heads, tunnel rams, etc.. All the things gear-head teenagers thought about and could afford when a $5 bill could cover an oil change with filter, and a $10 bill could cover 8 plugs, a cap, rotor and 2 sets of points for the dual-point distributors. (individual points dwell of 26 deg, combined for 32 deg) `:)` Funny what stays locked away in memory forever....
appreciate the insight boss your comment helped me decide that the sunroof risk to reward is not worth it, im going to continue building my o1 xlt !
 
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