It worked until it didn't - 2000 Ford Exp EB No Crank

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Daniel A Havens
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Swapped batteries and still same click and nothing else. 2.5v drop to the top terminal on the starter relay when key at run. I don't know what to do with that information. Almost bought a new relay, but figured that I'd wait until I have a clue if it is toasted. I have a feeling it is, but this truck doesn't care about my feelings.
 

studabaker

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The good thing is that taking a systematic approach should get you to a fault. These cut of if there is not enough to turn it over. If you crank the engine manually it is not easy. You sound confident its an electrical problem. The more you learn your self the better you will feel acomplished. I am thinking of a new battery myself and they are as much as optimas used to be. Im shopping around. there must be a thread on the best battery for you buck on here. Search that and try a friends battery to be sure. I have a kind of wierd rythm to mine which could be the battery. I have been repairing the electrical connections to the cops but my repairs may not have been done perfectly. I really need to go back through those because i did not soldier them as is best to do when replacing electrical connectors. Thats not really relevant to your issue. Maybe a jumper box should get it going and that could be a test and lead you away from the battery. If you give it a jump that should start it then you might want to look elsewhere. Repeatedly jumping is not great on the other vehicle battery. Use a jumper box or tow truck. Maybe theres a service that will bring out a jump box.
 

stamp11127

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Hit the starter with a hammer about mid section on the body. Need one good wack then try to start again. If it doesn't start then it is time to voltage drop test the circuits. Do you understand what he is doing in the 2nd video? If not, what do you need help with?
 
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Daniel A Havens
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Already tried the magical hit the starter fix, and no luck. I'll get back out there sometime soon with a better plan to test each section of the circuit. It's a rainy one today in Seattle, so not planning to play with electricity while wet.

I'll review the video again and go through a step by step to get some better data to help with a proper diagnosis. Thanks for the help guys, at least I am not suffering alone.
 

studabaker

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You can get the starter tested at the part shop. They are usually pretty easy. Cant say ive done it on this vehicle.
 
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Daniel A Havens
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Finally got an assistant and a dry day to get back on this headache. So I'll list out the info and see what we all agree is the issue. Still same symptoms - all electronics working / turn key / lights/dash go dark / no crank / one click at the starter relay on the firewall / nothing else

First number is key in, second number is under load/key start

Battery - 12.21/12.5 - voltage goes up when key is turned.
Starter points voltage drop from battery
s-terminal - .42 / .05 (red lead battery + post / black lead on s-terminal)
b-terminal - .00 / .00 (red lead battery + post / black lead on b-terminal)
m-terminal - 12.21 / 12.5 - (red lead battery + post / black lead m-terminal)
ground - 0.01 / 0.00 (red lead battery - post / black lead starter body)


So the starter circuit looks okay, the power supply looks okay, so the starter itself is the culprit??? I don't know why, but my brain just won't absorb a basic understanding of electronic circuits.
 
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stamp11127

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Need to know where you placed both meter leads for each measurement. Readings are taken with key at start position - circuit has to be energized.

For instance:
Source voltage: 12.2v
Red lead on battery + post
Black lead on top large starter relay lug
VD of ***
 
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Daniel A Havens
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Updated the post with the locations of the leads. First number is key in, second number is key at start position.
 

stamp11127

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If the M terminal connects the relay to the positive lug on the starter that is pointing to the contact disc in the relay is bad. To verify do another vd test on the large studs of the starter relay. Red lead will go on the stud that connects the cable to the positive battery post, the black lead will go on the other large stud on the relay.
Turn key to start, if more than .5v relay is bad.
You can jump the large studs with a screw driver and see if the starter turns at this point. I would charge the battery to 100‰ first. Expect some sparks when you make contact with both studs. You just want to "bump" the starter first to see if it works.
If you haven't done this before it can scare you some the first few times - you get used to it after a couple.
 

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