2000 Expedition 4.6

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Billme

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Got the bypass done.. I decided to use 5/8’s 90 deg hose coupling, to keep kinking minimum..
On my idle problem, on cold starts it’s normal for a minute, then it will increase from a normal 1000 to 1300, then on to 1500…. It all started when I changed to a newer EGR solenoid.. .. I just put a new DP signal box in and throttle position sensor..At least have a good signal from positioning sensor..
Going to check voltage at the connection on the solenoid in the morning.. I’m expecting open coil on this, since it started this behavior since installation.. I try to buy ford parts when Rock Auto has them, within reason..
I also rechecked my fuel rail pressure.. It 27 pounds with engine running..About 33 pounds engine off key on..
Something I noticed was the fuel pressure follows the rpm when this strange cycle happens…
 
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The PCM is not even trying to open EGR control.. I noticed it’s dependent on O2 sensor, which is not working…
I’m also afraid my fix on the lower intake has broke loose on the bank 2 side going by the long term fuel figures..
If I have to do a redo, I’ll go with a whole new intake
Manoman
 
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Well I’m confident it’s not a air leak on the engine.. I put a new throttle sensor and now have a reading that moves..
This problem is probably on the evap system on the fuel tank..I’m going to have to let my local guy look, when and if he ever gets caught up..
This thing cranks up normal, goes to 1200, and soon 1000rpm, then you hear a solenoid click, then it jump to 1500, then to 1100.. it’s perfectly timed intervals, and will gradually lower in rpm’s.. It eventually lands at 750 where it’s supposed to be..
The engine runs perfectly fine and smooth otherwise..
I’m not getting and engine light.. I did get a P1504.. changed out the solenoid, but it still does this ritual.. I did replace the vent valve, and while just after it started I open the gas tank cap, and it had a pretty good vacuum on it, indicating the vent valve was closed during the cycle..
Do you see anything out of whack?IMG_6929.png
 

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I ordered a Ancel smoke leak machine…..
If I do find a vac leak on the lower intake, does the Dorman lower intake fit what I have, or will I need to buy the whole Enchilada?
 

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Is that your AC clutch relay you hear clicking ? Is this video made with your AC on ? Seems like an intake air leak of some type. The smoke test will give you a better idea. This issue is a new one right ? It idled ok when you took it on your road trip earlier? But it's some air leak that the idle air control valve can't compete with. I'm surprised you haven't gotten any lean codes already.







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I’ve done it with the ac on and off, and I still hear the click..
Not one time have I got a lean code.. I’m off and on about vac leak..Fuel trims follow this ritual, indicating it’s a timed event, like the IAC is over compensating for the EGR opening..Even the new egr solenoid seems to not allow much opening.. I put a hand vac pump on the egr, and it disturbs the idle like I would think..
If you look at the short video, it’s normal.. I would think if there was a leak, it would do it all the time..
I did notice my intake air temp can’t be right, so I’ll change that.. It seems to stick around 108 degs, even when it’s 78 degs OSAT..
I’m just going to wait for that Ancel, and go from there.. If no leaks, I’ll change the Map, and intake temp since this is a learning experience for me..
Hehe, oh well
 
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BTW, I have sprayed starter fluid everywhere I can, nothing effects that I could tell..
I’ve isolated the evap system, brake booster, individual hoses…..I’ll get it eventually I hope
 
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Well my smoke machine arrived, and still learning.. This thing is neat, although I didn’t know there are 3 models of Ancel 3000.. Of course I got the model that didn’t have the evap adapter..
Anyway, I’m breathing better since I didn’t see any smoke coming from the intake, thank goodness ..I may have not used the most flow to kinda pressurize it.. Still getting the feel..
I did hook it up on the evap vacuum supply line..no leaks, but I unhooked the vac line to the egr valve and it was pressurized.. I thought the EGR control solenoid is supposed to be closed .. Anyway, this is what I had a chance to do yesterday..
 

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Well at least you know your intake repair worked. You can buy the Evap adaptor kit seperately on Amazon. They're pretty cheap. So the vacuum line to the EGR valve was pressurized ? You may be onto something. Do you have a vacuum gauge you can rig up to the EGR vacuum line and watch during the warm up cycle to see if any vacuum is ever applied ? Or when exactly is the pressurization occuring ? Did you say the EGR valve was new ?

Evap Adaptor Kit on Amazon





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I found a big leak after cranking up the smoke.. The ICV seems to be leaking at the gasket.. When I fiirst took it off, during the timing job, I wondered why it had so many gaskets, now I see why..This was apparently a problem before..
It’s a new vac EGR control valve..I do have a vac gauge, and will check it.. I only checked voltage last time, and felt with my hand on the vac side
You can zoom in and clearly see the leak..
This machine is a must have!
 

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I did do a quick scan before ai shutdown this operation due to grandkids..
What the heck, this may have been caused when I unplugged them..
 

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How's that mating surface look at the IAC valve ? Might have to work on that, or use a few gaskets again. Always something....
 
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Didn’t make a change, except a few more rpm’s higher..During the changes, timing changed, it’s like someone is is just giving it throttle.. I’m wondering Two things, PCM bad, or the ground being mounted on the intake, instead of the back of the passenger side head is somehow maybe interfering with the electrical side..
After about 10 mins, it wouldn’t comeback on to idle, so I cut it off, and restarted..
It was if noting never happened..
Making my chest hurt
 

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Continuing from above, I let it idle for 5 mins, everything normal like I said, and then turned the ac on, and it jumped up and down then settled out, after another 10 mins, it started doing things like at the cold start..
Manoman..
No vac to the EGR
 
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I was able to put smoke on fuel tank through the evap system.. leaks from the top of the tank, and around the canister..I’m to old to do this kinda work, so off to a pro ;)

I don’t know the testing logic between the evap system and the EGR operation..
I do know I first tested the voltage on the egr vac control valve Power and signal was 12.4.. I never did see the voltage drop on the signal side..So, I can assume the egr valve is not moving..I don’t see any vacuum to the egr during engine run..
Like I said, after about 10 mins everything settles out, then it starts acting up, for a few mins, then settles back down..I’m pretty sure this a vapor burning sequence..
Since I have so many leaks on fuel system vapor, would this cause, or upset the egr control logic?
 
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I decided to do it myself since it has cooled off a bit..Got to get in shape for that heater core job
It’s off the ground anyway..
 

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Well it’s out.. all the lines look bad..
Of course it was a good fight, but I’m learning..
Going to clean it up, and out, then treat the whole tank with ultimate black Maguires. It’s great for plastics and rubber..

I’m changing the pump also since it’s old and the key on pressure was below spec..
All the vapor lines will be replaced and canister..
I think I’m going to take it easy for a while, hehe
 

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