2003 EB stalling, 2wd, 5.4 - nightmare

[RichardH]

I think what they meant is the fuse box (or whatever its called) by passenger footwell. I'm no expert (by a longshot) but I recall reading many times that there were two different assemblies during the year and you have to get the right one. Bdrk knew but he's not around to clarify anymore. RIP

If you searched the Forum you would find the answer to this. Lots of info about that on this Forum. Unless I'm off track wrong which is possible or likely.

Thank you MrSticker.

I was writing it exactly as the dealer described it.

I've done a ton of research on this, trying to find a cure. It's been crazy.

I won't rush them. I want the truck fixed right, and they said they would pay for my rental, so let them do what they do, fix trucks. I have a Chevy Malibu as rental, it works. Nice infotainment system.

I'll also do a search as you mentioned.

Thanks

 

[stamp11127]

The box in question is called the "smart junction box". When Ford has an electrical change during a production run it is noted on the wiring diagrams as "early or late production".

A few members have repaired their sjb for about $35, others have bought a new box for about 10x that.

 

[RichardH]

The box in question is called the "smart junction box". When Ford has an electrical change during a production run it is noted on the wiring diagrams as "early or late production".

A few members have repaired their sjb for about $35, others have bought a new box for about 10x that.

You are exactly correct. He did refer to it as a smart junction box. I looked at the Ford OEM part site last night, new box, either $515, or $550 ish, two versions I have no problem with either. I just need these knuckleheads to get the dang truck running.

Lol. They are paying for my rental, so I will wait for their call, not vice versa.

 

[RichardH]

This is weird.

Picked the truck up this morning from the dealer. Nice thing is they paid for my rental. If it happens again I guarantee they will do it again.

They claim the new EGR pressure sensor I installed was faulty. From everything I read, P0401 - not as good mileage and maybe rough running - I had neither., so I never suspected EGR as the problem. I always thought it was electrical related. Dealer on first two visits never recommended changing to quell the stall, so I didn't have them repair EGR issue.

I met with the Service Director and the Shop Foreman/Master Mechanic on the 3rd visit for the same problem. Mechanic said, yes, a faulty EGR part can cause stalling. So they repaired it. Well I guess we were both correct. It seems the pressure sensor - EGR and electrical related, was causing the stalling.

I instructed them to idle it for an hour (it used to stall even when idling) and drive as long as they could.

So far so good.

 

[ray young]

Richard, did you ever get this resolved?

 

[RichardH]

Richard, did you ever get this resolved?

Yes Sir,

After changing all battery/alternator cables, dealer telling me the stalling was caused by a loose nut (prob a joke in there somewhere), it did turn out the stalling, as far as I can tell, was caused by the P0401, EGR recirculation according to them. I had a P0401 code I drove on for while with no issues in my '01, so I did not think anything of it.

I had already replaced pressure sensor with an Autozone part, but it was faulty.

So now, no more fault codes, no more stalling.

So after new COP, EGR valve, two hoses, 2nd egr pressure sensor, other likely non-related parts: neutral safety switch, (I did hit some higher water than recommended driving through during Imelda storm in TX), truck is fine.

I have no problem spending the dealer $$ for now, but wish it could have been nipped in the bud earlier on with the indy shops.

Again, I'm OK spending money at the dealer to make the truck reliable. Jeez though, almost $500 for pressure sensor - two bolts, connector and two hoses. Took me all of 6 minutes while drinking a beer to replace. I think while giving a cat call to a gal walking by.

Again, I did not realize EGR pressure sensor could cause these stalling problems, I guess it was a fatal ST, LT fuel trim issue.

Truck is running like a champ - thanks for asking.

Maybe the one out take from this is to consider Motorcraft parts but that still is not a guarantee.

Oddly, and unlikely, I used Seafoam a few weeks before this problem. Wonder if that promoted the problem. I've heard good things about the product but have suspended using it.

 

[ray young]

thanks, i have the same code but my ERG pressure sensor is newish, 6 months, dorman think its time to find a Motorcraft part

Thanks for the update

 

[RichardH]

thanks, i have the same code but my ERG pressure sensor is newish, 6 months, dorman think its time to find a Motorcraft part

Thanks for the update

Don't know your year model, but a hundred 'ish. My EGR pressure sensor was about $130, my cost at dealer. Plus labor of course.

 

[EliteFord]

Yes, when that fuel pump relay stops working, the engine dies with the loss of fuel pressure. Pull the top right relay ( PCM 203 ) and inspect it for signs of melted plastic, on the relay and on the socket itself. If you can, take a flashlight and see if you can read the part number on the actual fuel pump micro relay there buried in the middle of the fuse box. You might be able to read it through the gap there ( use your camera to take a close up picture of it, then read from the picture...). The upgraded fuel pump relay should be a Omron G8QN part number. The original fuel pump micro relays were part number F8VF and were the culprits of most of the early fuse box problems. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge kit ? If you do, take a reading of what your fuel pump is putting out at the fuel rail now. You should see 45-55 psi on a healthy fuel pump.

Hi, so what would the best order to go in?
1. replace fuel pump relay
2. replace fuel modulator
3. replace fuel pump

? thanks.

 

[RichardH]

Hi, so what would the best order to go in?
1. replace fuel pump relay
2. replace fuel modulator
3. replace fuel pump

? thanks.

I'll admit not the best advice, but I did also replace the SJB, smart junction box with a used one - kick panel on passenger side for way too much at indy shop. Could be a newer one, not sure.

I'll need to replace one day with the newer one mentioned here before if not so.

I also did hear a buzzing at the SMJ box a couple weeks, a month or so before the symptoms became worse.

I found an upgraded OEM box online for about $350. Small price to pay vs tow, inconvenience.