a/c in a different vehicle

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gixer2000

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stuff flat cleaned my floor real good where is dripped.
any way, i have to call freightliner in am to get the model of ac compressor, its just to darn tight to get my body up next to it to see a model number.

can i add the oil through the high side line at the pump?
i have to see if o rielles has some more of this sticky tape stuff to fill the hole around the lines going into the evap

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Fyi that "sticky tape stuff" is cork tape. Any HVAC supply house will have but not sure about auto part stores
 

stamp11127

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What is so bad about getting to the compressor? Move the inlet pipe out of the way, drop the serp and it looks like it is "right there".

Is that "Cummins Red"?
 
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powerboatr

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yes red cummings, for some reason the rv engines get the full treatment ???
and yes moving the inlet pipe would make it easy...the problem is getting my arms up there high enough , not to mention my slim ass, wedged between the dpf and frame...i just cant get that small. its tight , then i have no movement of my arms ...i may drop the panel inside and maybe slide down over the valve cover.. I have to mull it a bit.
but i did manage to spin it over freely,
have everything back together, now waiting on a vac pump. Orieeles had theirs rented out...might be making a 60 mile trip to get one at harbor freight or northern tool

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stamp11127

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Never hurts to invest in ac tools. If you get a pump get the highest cfm rating you can afford, 6cfm is ideal. You will also need pump oil - which needs to be changed after some use due to trapping moisture. Vac through both the high and low sides.

I hate to say this but that condenser looks like an R12 version. The R134a condensers are huge in comparison.

This is for a Jeep Liberty which I can safely say has less square footage of cabin space to cool than yours.

https://www.google.cz/search?q=auto...AUICigB&biw=1680&bih=913#imgrc=AE7s-wQplYl8FM:
 
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powerboatr

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i hope the condenser is correct, acme warrantied to replace it back in 2010, it came from a local a/c place in dallas near the warranty dealer.
autozone came through and called me about 4:30 and i got a pump.
i hooked everything up around 815 my time and ran the pump for 45 minutes.
i closed everything and will recheck gauges in an hr.
yes i need new lenses for my gauges, i may have to break down and get a new set, i have had these about 15 or so years

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powerboatr

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all done,
took 58 oz, based on weight of cans,
oat was 74 with 78% hummidity
pulled 44F at center vents but had an airbox temp of 36F so i need to insulate the plastic hoses they use for runs between the air box and the dash vents.
condensor fan ran like a scalded cat, had lots and lots of condensation on the suction line at the evap and tx valve
i need to mitigate condensation run off, as now with everything secured to the firewall, i get lots more water dripping on the generator,

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stamp11127

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What is the high side pressure once it stabilizes?

Remember to pay yourself $130hr for the work you did.

Make sure you put the dust caps on the service ports to keep the dirt out of them or you could blow contaminates into the system next time you hook up.
 
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powerboatr

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i had 42 to 44 psi on low and 160 on high at steady state. once compressor started cycling on and off the high would slowly climb to 400, then as soon as the compressor kicked on it dropped to normal


new dust caps as well.

it blew me away that the vacum held all night without moving. then right before i started to add refrigerant, i ran the pump again for 40 or so minutes just to double check.
humidity today was and still is brutal, air temps are mid 80s now, air so thick you can cut it.
once the condensor fan kicked on, the system seemed to come alive and really started taking refrigerant.
thanks for the guidance

i figure 130 an hr for really 12 hours of work plus mileage...1660 bucks i saved.
parts were under 150

think maybe a new set of gauges is next.
 
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gixer2000

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i hope the condenser is correct, acme warrantied to replace it back in 2010, it came from a local a/c place in dallas near the warranty dealer.
autozone came through and called me about 4:30 and i got a pump.
i hooked everything up around 815 my time and ran the pump for 45 minutes.
i closed everything and will recheck gauges in an hr.
yes i need new lenses for my gauges, i may have to break down and get a new set, i have had these about 15 or so years

View attachment 26544

View attachment 26545

View attachment 26546
Order the gauges themselves not an entire manifold.
i had 42 to 44 psi on low and 160 on high at steady state. once compressor started cycling on and off the high would slowly climb to 400, then as soon as the compressor kicked on it dropped to normal


new dust caps as well.

it blew me away that the vacum held all night without moving. then right before i started to add refrigerant, i ran the pump again for 40 or so minutes just to double check.
humidity today was and still is brutal, air temps are mid 80s now, air so thick you can cut it.
once the condensor fan kicked on, the system seemed to come alive and really started taking refrigerant.
thanks for the guidance

i figure 130 an hr for really 12 hours of work plus mileage...1660 bucks i saved.
parts were under 150

think maybe a new set of gauges is next.
Nice job!

Fyi buy the gauges themselves not an entire manifold. Gauges themselves cost like 8 bucks.
 
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