A/C is warm

[stamp11127]

I'll look at the plenum layout after work and answer your question.

Also in reply #11 you stated no condensate or dripping but recently said it stopped. Can't have both.

 

[juan214]

I'll look at the plenum layout after work and answer your question.

Also in reply #11 you stated no condensate or dripping but recently said it stopped. Can't have both.

I'll look at the plenum layout after work and answer your question.

l looked at the plenum from under the dash. Looks like the EVAP sits in the lower half of the plenum. Condesation builds up drips downwards and to the left (to drivers side) then down again to the firewall and out. It sits in it about an inch it would have to fill up to that point to get to the filter and overflow into cabin.

What a PIA to check this out. Took inner fender off just to see from wheelwell. Crawled under to veiw up. The drain looks clear or is it a vent I see from underneath?. Is there a picture showing that there is both a vent and drain?

Also in reply #11 you stated no condensate or dripping but recently said it stopped. Can't have both.

There was no dripping anywhere. IR Reader says the top of the dryer ranging between 90 - 100 degrees. The line next to battery is cool nothing major to the touch and was 85 degrees with very little condesation. My dyrer has a foam jacket with a hole at the bottom.

Before dropping the 20 pounds of pressure:
Temps
Low Line: 85 (very slight condensation but visible)
Dryer: 90 - 100 up and down

After dropping the 20 pounds of pressure:
Temps
Low Line: 125
Dryer: 135

New Question (probably dumb)
Since the system was releived of 20 pounds of pressure any idea of what that may equate into in ounces of refrigerant?

 

[stamp11127]

The ir temp guns need to be right up on the lines to get an actual reading. As you move back it averages a larger area.
Gauges say the evap temp is around the mid 40's so how can the low side line read 125?
Condenser is around 175-200 degrees.

Are you reading the metal on the accumulator or the foam insulator?

"After dropping the 20 pounds of pressure:
Temps
Low Line: 125
Dryer: 135" This would mean the evap is acting as a heater

I'd say the readings are wrong.

 

[stamp11127]

The evap and lines should be very cold with that pressure reading.

Run the system for 5 minutes. Increase rpms to 2500 and note what the low and high side pressures read. You should see the low pressure drop as the rpms increase, high side should also increase but not a crazy amount.

When you added the refrigerant did you purge the air out of the yellow hose?
All this testing should be on max, windows closed, rear air also running on high.

Take a static pressure reading with the engine cold, ac not run overnight. The pressure should be 3-4 psi above ambient temp on a system that has a full charge. Yours should be lower but still rather close. Static readings are on both the high and low sides, gauges should be close, the low side is more accurate.

Student recharged a Civic today, at idle in the hot sun, low was 44, high was 190. Once the car was moving and the airflow through the condenser increased the vent temp was 38. Low side reading under power was about mid 20's.

 

[juan214]

The evap and lines should be very cold with that pressure reading.

Run the system for 5 minutes. Increase rpms to 2500 and note what the low and high side pressures read. You should see the low pressure drop as the rpms increase, high side should also increase but not a crazy amount.

When you added the refrigerant did you purge the air out of the yellow hose?
All this testing should be on max, windows closed, rear air also running on high.

Take a static pressure reading with the engine cold, ac not run overnight. The pressure should be 3-4 psi above ambient temp on a system that has a full charge. Yours should be lower but still rather close. Static readings are on both the high and low sides, gauges should be close, the low side is more accurate.

Student recharged a Civic today, at idle in the hot sun, low was 44, high was 190. Once the car was moving and the airflow through the condenser increased the vent temp was 38. Low side reading under power was about mid 20's.

I guess we stop taking readings here now.

Once again I beleive you nailed it. When I was coached through this last year one detail was left out. Guess what it was. Make sure you purge the air out of the yellow line before filling the system.

Rookie mistake not knowing that detail.

Now What?

 

[stamp11127]

You would still get at least some cooling with contaminated refrigerant but the pressures would be off.

I'm still interested in what the rear air is doing plus the static pressure once the engine has cooled off.

If there is air in the system it would need to be evacuated again. I would do that as a last resort since you don't have a recovery machine available.

When you installed the orifice tube did you pay attention to the arrow? Some tubes can be installed backwards.

How much dye did you add?

 

[juan214]

You would still get at least some cooling with contaminated refrigerant but the pressures would be off.

I'm still interested in what the rear air is doing plus the static pressure once the engine has cooled off.

If there is air in the system it would need to be evacuated again. I would do that as a last resort since you don't have a recovery machine available.

When you installed the orifice tube did you pay attention to the arrow? Some tubes can be installed backwards.

How much dye did you add?

You would still get at least some cooling with contaminated refrigerant but the pressures would be off.
The cooling at the vent was 76-78 degress with Outside temps being 78 - 84 degrees

I'm still interested in what the rear air is doing plus the static pressure once the engine has cooled off.
The rear is running warmer.
Static pressure readings Ill get first thing in the morning.

When you installed the orifice tube did you pay attention to the arrow? Some tubes can be installed backwards.
It went back in the same direction as the original came out.



How much dye did you add?
What I use to find the leaks, then system emptied out in 24 hours. Added some into the yellow line when filling it. Which came back out when prssure was releived as well as some oil.

 

[TomFFMedic]

He is only chasing this because he doesn't have a recycle/recovery machine, did previous work and then stopped. If he did have an R/R then the diagnosis would be quick - unless there was a leak. With those it can take a few hours to find.
And repairs like this can run around $2000+

Yep, keep convincing I should drive this to Louisiana during hurricane season.

 

[stamp11127]

Just to make sure, the colored part of the orifice tube should face the hose end that is open - per Fords Service Manual Climate Control for 1999 Expedition. You can check the length of tubing from the pinched area to the open end to see if it is possible to install backwards. I've never had to change the one on my 99 so I can't say if the manual is correct or not.



https://www.google.com/search?q=ori...msung&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx

 

[juan214]

Just to make sure, the colored part of the orifice tube should face the hose end that is open - per Fords Service Manual Climate Control for 1999 Expedition. You can check the length of tubing from the pinched area to the open end to see if it is possible to install backwards. I've never had to change the one on my 99 so I can't say if the manual is correct or not.

View attachment 31137/QUOTE]

The tube went back in as soon as it was pulled out. So it should be in the correctly. My photo could be wrong so could my memory with age mixture (LOL).

Static Pressure @ 8:23 am right on target right? All previous readings matched as well.

• So the system is contaminated with air and should be purged/emptied?
• The oil that came out should it be replaced? Recharge last year was 2 oz. for accumulator/Dryer and 1 oz. for leakage.
• No need to worry about dye as it didn't leak out over the past year.
• Do I need replace anything again, I would double check the orifie tube but sure its fine?
• Just out of curiousity if the orifice tube is in backwards what wouid it affect?