Howdy from central OR

[rburch]

As for the door ajar problem, go around with some spray lube and spray the door latches with it.

 

[CR_Magruder]

Re-powering; the nickel tour

Thanks Burch-- I'll try that. I always want to try the easy stuff first.

Here is the short version of my re-power. First, take out the thirsty 5.4L gasoline eater:



Then remove the stock motor mounts with the hot wrench. The 4BT is much wider at the bottom than the V8, so the mounts need to move outboard. The passenger side mount is also moved ahead a little. I re-used the liquid filled isolators from the V8, so they fit back into their original pockets.



Then re-weld them back on the frame rails, with appropriate reinforcing. The auto transmission is gone too:



Then set the 4BT in its new home. This engine is just a little longer than the V8, so this method of setting it down in the engine bay sideways worked best. Once the flywheel housing is down below the cowling it can be turned straight.


After a few weeks of making all the connecting runs for coolant, fuel, air, intercooler ins and outs, wiring, sensors and controls-- you are ready to drive it again. There were of course a few pauses to figure out what to do next and "oh man I didn't see that one ahead of time" kind of stuff that happens when you do something like this for the first time.



I will post more in the members' section later. Thanks for all the greetings and encouragements!

CR

 

[sgtowing]

 

[FordandPolaris]

That's awesome, very impressive.

 

[Canadian Expy]

Very Cool!!!! Welcome

 

[GAINMOB]

welcome to the site

 

[CR_Magruder]

Three pedals & a lever

This is one of my favorite parts of the re-power. I don't mind automatic transmissions-- they have their advantages. But I love being captian of my ship and deciding when the gears will be changed. Using a manual trans from an older F-150 also saved about $2500-3000 in doing this swap. To use the 4R70W trans, I would have had to buy a different engine-to-trans flywheel housing ($700), have the torque converter re-worked ($700-1000) with a lower stall speed, and get an aftermarket transmission controller to change the shift points ($800-1000).

The breakdown for a manual trans:
M5R2 trans from the U-Pull-It yard: $165
Clutch pedal ass'y and master cylinder from a 2000 F150: $75
New slave cylinder: $65
New hydraulic line for 2000 F150: $45
5/8" diameter 4140 bar for shift lever: $35
Shifting my own gears with a 4-cyl diesel heartbeat leaving a stoplight next to a minivan: priceless