JLT Oil Seperator

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
NASCAR Mike

NASCAR Mike

Full Access Members
Joined
Sep 30, 2008
Posts
267
Reaction score
106
Location
Syracuse NY
I have had a the JLT oil catch can on my 2013 Mustang GT for years now. It is amazing how much nasty black oil is collected between oil changes. Knowing that stuff doesn't make it into my intake will improve the health of the intake valves since the 3.5 EcoBoost uses direct injection.
 

ExpeditionAndy

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2013
Posts
3,711
Reaction score
1,126
Location
Fort Wayne, Indiana
I have had a the JLT oil catch can on my 2013 Mustang GT for years now. It is amazing how much nasty black oil is collected between oil changes. Knowing that stuff doesn't make it into my intake will improve the health of the intake valves since the 3.5 EcoBoost uses direct injection.
How often do you have to empty the catch can?
 

limitedex

Full Access Members
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Posts
119
Reaction score
35
Location
Ok
While I didn't read the whole thread, I will comment that an oil separator on a forced induction motor is a must buy. I have one on my 2008 GT500 and my 2013 F150 Ecoboost. The F150 collects so much it's ridiculous! I have JLT on the Shelby, and UPR on the F150. Both passenger side only.
 

Muddy Bean

Full Access Members
Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Posts
818
Reaction score
508
Location
Michigan
Ok so I've been researching this more and more. Some Ford Techs are now saying that the buildup on the valves can get so bad that they are replacing parts...I know an expensive catch can is a must at this point, but can someone follow my logic and correct me if I'm mistaken: instead of an expensive catch can, could one, in theory, vent the PCV to atmosphere using a small 12v vacuum pump? I know this isn't EPA compliant, so the question isn't geared towards compliance, but rather the actual feasibility of creating an artificial vacuum and sucking the gases out when at idle or WOT. The Ford tech Macculoko or whatever his name is, suggested that the proper way to install the catch can is to connect it not only to the intake, (for vacuum) but since the intake is at pressure during WOT and not vacuum, he says to connect it to both turbo inlets which create vacuum at WOT. The plumbing and routing and one way valves for all of this are somewhat involved/complicated, so I merely wondered if I could get a 12 volt vacuum pump ($60-70) and connect that to the PCV hose, vent to atmosphere and call it a day? Our trucks have around 16"hg at idle and there are plenty of small 12 volt vacuum pumps that could create this. Is my logic flawed?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

ads245

Full Access Members
Joined
Jul 24, 2017
Posts
80
Reaction score
47
Location
Tampa
Ok so I've been researching this more and more. Some Ford Techs are now saying that the buildup on the valves can get so bad that they are replacing parts...I know an expensive catch can is a must at this point, but can someone follow my logic and correct me if I'm mistaken: instead of an expensive catch can, could one, in theory, vent the PCV to atmosphere using a small 12v vacuum pump? I know this isn't EPA compliant, so the question isn't geared towards compliance, but rather the actual feasibility of creating an artificial vacuum and sucking the gases out when at idle or WOT. The Ford tech Macculoko or whatever his name is, suggested that the proper way to install the catch can is to connect it not only to the intake, (for vacuum) but since the intake is at pressure during WOT and not vacuum, he says to connect it to both turbo inlets which create vacuum at WOT. The plumbing and routing and one way valves for all of this are somewhat involved/complicated, so I merely wondered if I could get a 12 volt vacuum pump ($60-70) and connect that to the PCV hose, vent to atmosphere and call it a day? Our trucks have around 16"hg at idle and there are plenty of small 12 volt vacuum pumps that could create this. Is my logic flawed?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


You wouldn't need to use a vacuum pump. Plenty of the Mustang guys just buy breathers instead of oil separators, which do exactly what you said. It vents the crankcase vapors to the atmosphere like this one here. You can see it mounted on the driver side cylinder head on this Boss 302.

1393641437841.jpg

The problem is with this is that breathers that vent to the atmosphere quickly become overly saturated and before you know it, your entire engine bay is covered in a thin film of oil. Wouldn't recommend you go this route.

In reality, the single side JLT oil separator that has become the topic of this thread doesn't do anything on an ecoboost motor because it's not a dual valve. If you were to look at the intercooler after a few thousand miles even with that JLT, it will be coated in oil for sure. Sure the JLT will catch some vapors, but the vast majority will still end up in the charge air cooler. On a non-Forced Induction engine, placing the oil separator on the passenger side is enough. Fresh air is pulled into the driver side cylinder head and evacuated out the passenger side cylinder head back into the intake manifold. All of this occurs due to vacuum. However, with turbocharged and supercharged engines, oil vapors can actually be pushed backwards to the fresh air side, which on the ecoboost motor is the intake tube connecting to the driver side turbocharger. When this happens, oil vapors condense in the intercooler and mix with the fresh charge air. This is why the majority of what an oil separator will collect is water vapor.

Bottom line, either go with a dual valve like this one or don't bother at all:

https://www.amazon.com/TEAM-RXP-CAT...dt-20&linkId=faeede562a7550134fc0969bba576fb2

Be aware though, this type of oil separator isn't plug an play like the JLT and requires more mechanical intuition to install. You will also have to drill a hole into the intake tube to pull the vacuum and those of you worried about warranty issues will most likely really have a problem with this.

@Muddy Bean you are correct though. Unless Ford has released an update within the past year, there is no Ford approved method to clean the backside of the intake valves. With direct injection, there is no fuel that washes over the backside to consistently clean the valves. Some manufacturers have approved methods such as walnut-shell blasting, but Ford's only option should a serious enough issue result from valve coking is to replace the cylinder head. Advertised options such as the CRC Valve Induction Cleaning should be avoided! When this is done, chunks of carbon can break off the valves and end up between the cylinder walls or worse eating a turbo.

The 2017 and on F150's and the 2018 an on Expeditions have the next generation ecoboost that has both direct and port injection, where you get the power benefits from direct injection but the cleaning benefits of port injection.

Do I think the issue of oil separators is overblown?, yes. Will it hurt to install one?, certainly not. In fact I have one on my Mustang GT, and my system looks spotless because of it. Will I put one on my ecoboost expedition?, no, I bought it used. With more than a million ecoboost motors on the road with many over 200,000 miles, and the R&D associated with FoMoCo, I don't see it as an issue. If it helps someone sleep at night, then no issue putting an oil separator on. Your system will be cleaner because of it. Funny thing to me though, is most of the guys who put one on end up selling their vehicle within the next few years anyway. Rather, they just go through the "it's my new vehicle and I need to do all the preventive maintenance possible since I'll keep it forever" stage. Get on the gas hard every once in a while and your ecoboost will keep ticking for longer than most will own it.
 
Last edited:

Muddy Bean

Full Access Members
Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Posts
818
Reaction score
508
Location
Michigan
Good info....and interesting stuff here for sure. If I knew I'd get 200,000 miles before having issues that required a cylinder head replacement I'd be fine. I'm in the keep my truck a long time camp. Drove my last one (1998 land cruiser) to almost 300,000 miles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

limitedex

Full Access Members
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Posts
119
Reaction score
35
Location
Ok
You wouldn't need to use a vacuum pump. Plenty of the Mustang guys just buy breathers instead of oil separators, which do exactly what you said. It vents the crankcase vapors to the atmosphere like this one here. You can see it mounted on the driver side cylinder head on this Boss 302.

View attachment 22042

The problem is with this is that breathers that vent to the atmosphere quickly become overly saturated and before you know it, your entire engine bay is covered in a thin film of oil. Wouldn't recommend you go this route.

In reality, the single side JLT oil separator that has become the topic of this thread doesn't do anything on an ecoboost motor because it's not a dual valve. If you were to look at the intercooler after a few thousand miles even with that JLT, it will be coated in oil for sure. Sure the JLT will catch some vapors, but the vast majority will still end up in the charge air cooler. On a non-Forced Induction engine, placing the oil separator on the passenger side is enough. Fresh air is pulled into the driver side cylinder head and evacuated out the passenger side cylinder head back into the intake manifold. All of this occurs due to vacuum. However, with turbocharged and supercharged engines, oil vapors can actually be pushed backwards to the fresh air side, which on the ecoboost motor is the intake tube connecting to the driver side turbocharger. When this happens, oil vapors condense in the intercooler and mix with the fresh charge air. This is why the majority of what an oil separator will collect is water vapor.

Bottom line, either go with a dual valve like this one or don't bother at all:

https://www.amazon.com/TEAM-RXP-CAT...dt-20&linkId=faeede562a7550134fc0969bba576fb2

Be aware though, this type of oil separator isn't plug an play like the JLT and requires more mechanical intuition to install. You will also have to drill a hole into the intake tube to pull the vacuum and those of you worried about warranty issues will most likely really have a problem with this.

@Muddy Bean you are correct though. Unless Ford has released an update within the past year, there is no Ford approved method to clean the backside of the intake valves. With direct injection, there is no fuel that washes over the backside to consistently clean the valves. Some manufacturers have approved methods such as walnut-shell blasting, but Ford's only option should a serious enough issue result from valve coking is to replace the cylinder head. Advertised options such as the CRC Valve Induction Cleaning should be avoided! When this is done, chunks of carbon can break off the valves and end up between the cylinder walls or worse eating a turbo.

The 2017 and on F150's and the 2018 an on Expeditions have the next generation ecoboost that has both direct and port injection, where you get the power benefits from direct injection but the cleaning benefits of port injection.

Do I think the issue of oil separators is overblown?, yes. Will it hurt to install one?, certainly not. In fact I have one on my Mustang GT, and my system looks spotless because of it. Will I put one on my ecoboost expedition?, no, I bought it used. With more than a million ecoboost motors on the road with many over 200,000 miles, and the R&D associated with FoMoCo, I don't see it as an issue. If it helps someone sleep at night, then no issue putting an oil separator on. Your system will be cleaner because of it. Funny thing to me though, is most of the guys who put one on end up selling their vehicle within the next few years anyway. Rather, they just go through the "it's my new vehicle and I need to do all the preventive maintenance possible since I'll keep it forever" stage. Get on the gas hard every once in a while and your ecoboost will keep ticking for longer than most will own it.


Politely put, you're wrong. I have a single passenger on a GT500 and 2013 Ecoboost F150. (Had one on a 2003 cobra and another GT500.)

The GT500 catches almost completely 100% oil vapor returning to the intake. The F150 is wild, it catches oil/gasoline/water which also circulate through the charge to air cooler. It's crazy what that single catch can does.
 

ads245

Full Access Members
Joined
Jul 24, 2017
Posts
80
Reaction score
47
Location
Tampa
Politely put, you're wrong. I have a single passenger on a GT500 and 2013 Ecoboost F150. (Had one on a 2003 cobra and another GT500.)

The GT500 catches almost completely 100% oil vapor returning to the intake. The F150 is wild, it catches oil/gasoline/water which also circulate through the charge to air cooler. It's crazy what that single catch can does.

You say I'm incorrect, but I'm curious to know what you are basing that on. Not sure how your're substantiating your claim of "almost completely 100%" (not really sure what this even means). If you're certain that your single catch can on the passenger side catches everything, then please show us the inside of the intercooler on your EcoBoost F150 or the GT500.

Now, without question, the passenger side oil separator will collect more oil than the driver's side separator. The amount the driver's side collects is also based on how much time you spend in boost. More time in boost means more oil vapor pushed backed into the driver's side as it switches from vacuum.
 
Last edited:

limitedex

Full Access Members
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Posts
119
Reaction score
35
Location
Ok
You say I'm incorrect, but I'm curious to know what your basing that on. Not sure how your're substantiating your claim of "almost completely 100%" (not really sure what this even means). If you're so certain that your single catch can on the passenger side catches everything, then show us the inside of the intercooler on your EcoBoost F150 or the GT500.

Now, without question, the passenger side oil separator will collect more oil than the driver's side separator. The amount the driver's side collects is also based on how much time you spend in boost. More time in boost means more oil vapor pushed backed into the driver's side as it switches from vacuum.


I am in disagreement with your statement, "In reality, the single side JLT oil separator that has become the topic of this thread doesn't do anything on an ecoboost motor because it's not a dual valve."

That's false, I can take pictures or video to prove otherwise. It is most often proven through many forums that the driver side catch-can supplementing the passenger side is unnecessary. That's on many makes and models, all forced induction of course.

To answer your question, I suppose I should have worded that differently. When emptying the passenger catch-can on the GT500, what is released is 100% oil, but I'm sure there is water vapor in there a bit. On the other hand, when I empty the passenger catch-can on the 2013 Ecoboost F150 it's about 4-8 ounces of gasoline (via smell and it ate through my Styrofoam cup once), oil (density), and water (again different density). That volume comes out about every few thousand miles.
 

ads245

Full Access Members
Joined
Jul 24, 2017
Posts
80
Reaction score
47
Location
Tampa
I am in disagreement with your statement, "In reality, the single side JLT oil separator that has become the topic of this thread doesn't do anything on an ecoboost motor because it's not a dual valve."

That's false, I can take pictures or video to prove otherwise. It is most often proven through many forums that the driver side catch-can supplementing the passenger side is unnecessary. That's on many makes and models, all forced induction of course.

To answer your question, I suppose I should have worded that differently. When emptying the passenger catch-can on the GT500, what is released is 100% oil, but I'm sure there is water vapor in there a bit. On the other hand, when I empty the passenger catch-can on the 2013 Ecoboost F150 it's about 4-8 ounces of gasoline (smell), oil (density), and water (again different density).

I would still disagree with you. I do though, agree that the passenger side will always catch more based on how the pcv system is set up.

I'm aware that many GT500 owners report low amounts of oil being collected by a driver's side oil separator. However, there are many that also show hard proof of the inside of their throttle bodies and intercoolers under the supercharger coated in oil after only running a passenger side separator.

This would be due to how the cars are driven. Cars driven harder will be in boost more often and comprise the individuals who report much higher amounts of oil, etc. in the intercooler when only running a passenger side separator. Whether the driver side is unnecessary or not is simply up to the owner and their individual experience.

The twin-scroll ecoboost is a different animal though than the supercharged GT500 and by running only a passenger side separator I think you would still be surprised how much oil, etc. ends up accumulating in the bottom of the CAC, which is why guys are drilling weep holes in them.

I see what you mean now in regards to the 100%. Much of what is collected via oil separators with the ecoboost motors will be water formed as condensation in the CAC as opposed to a higher concentration of oil with the GT500.

When I said "In reality, the single side JLT oil separator that has become the topic of this thread doesn't do anything on an ecoboost motor because it's not a dual valve," I don't mean that a single passenger still won't do anything at all, because it most certainly will still collect oil. However, I just wanted to explain that seeing oil, etc. collected in a single passenger side separator would lead to a false confidence in a clean intake system. There will still be a decent amount from the driver's side not collected by the passenger side. For full protection (as that is what most are after if they are concerned about this to begin with), a dual setup is the way to go.

Of course, the only thing that matters in the end is how much of an enthusiast each individual is and how much they believe what they are doing will keep their vehicle running at it's best.
 
Top