OEM Raptor Wheels and Tires
- Thread starter MATT0404
- Start date
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AKentPhoto
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Well done! What spacers did you go with?
Rough Country .250.......and still had to sand down just a little of the inside of the cap the clear the axle....not even enough to show through the other side. A 3/8 or 7/16(or metric equivalent) might just be the ticket.
AKentPhoto
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I hit the lottery...
I found a guy who was selling his 2020 Beadlocks and didn't realize what he had. I could not be happier. Thank you Matt for the heads up on the zip ties. Had it done before the wheels arrived. I ground the axle down to the threads but still need a spacer to clear. How far are you guys going?
I found a guy who was selling his 2020 Beadlocks and didn't realize what he had. I could not be happier. Thank you Matt for the heads up on the zip ties. Had it done before the wheels arrived. I ground the axle down to the threads but still need a spacer to clear. How far are you guys going?
Those are chubby AF! Looks good.
I had to remove about an 1/8th from my plastic cap...on top of the .250 spacer. With a lift, your ride will be hot.
Looks great!
AKentPhoto
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I'm undecided on the lift...
My wife is super short and honestly I like the tucked big tire look. It exaggerates them a bit and doesn't effect driving character... Maybe one day when I actually have a chance to get it off road and I realize how low it is... Plus it will be spending a fair amount of time towing so that will have to be taken into account.
Where's the beef??
Rubbing is minimal and I think a couple more zip ties is all I need up front. I'm also thinking of only putting spacers in the back because of that, is that a bad idea? The back seem more pulled in than the front. Slightly... I guess ill order 4 and see how it looks before making the decision.
My wife is super short and honestly I like the tucked big tire look. It exaggerates them a bit and doesn't effect driving character... Maybe one day when I actually have a chance to get it off road and I realize how low it is... Plus it will be spending a fair amount of time towing so that will have to be taken into account.
Where's the beef??
Rubbing is minimal and I think a couple more zip ties is all I need up front. I'm also thinking of only putting spacers in the back because of that, is that a bad idea? The back seem more pulled in than the front. Slightly... I guess ill order 4 and see how it looks before making the decision.
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I like it. But I would bet one day you will be in a hurry and pull into a coffee shop or something and rip all the carpet out from under your car. [emoji23]
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Tys expedition
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i did a write up on my swap. i cut between 1/4-3/8 off th eagle halfshaft and had plenty of room for the cap. no spacer. ps yours looks awesome. i couldn't find the newer beadlocks for under 2k. i like both and my wife prefers the other ones. i ended up getting eight so i can match a trailer when i get it built
AKentPhoto
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@Fozzy
Rear? Nah... They articulate up towards the rear and there is plenty of room. Honestly I'm more worried about droop in the rear. When I get the front completely set I'll rti it to find the weak points and let you know. Most of the contact points on the liners are soft ie nothing behind it so I'm confident I can make them go away completely. These raptor "35s" are cheating though... Your width and backspacing is what's killing you...
@Tys expedition
It is truly insane what people are paying for 17s... I bought a set of rough non Beadlocks thinking it was the best I could do but these weren't much more. Was it 1/4" total or 1/4" off the threaded part? Did you do anything special to protect the threads? I'll probably put spacers out back but keep the fronts tucked to help prevent rubbing...
Rear? Nah... They articulate up towards the rear and there is plenty of room. Honestly I'm more worried about droop in the rear. When I get the front completely set I'll rti it to find the weak points and let you know. Most of the contact points on the liners are soft ie nothing behind it so I'm confident I can make them go away completely. These raptor "35s" are cheating though... Your width and backspacing is what's killing you...
@Tys expedition
It is truly insane what people are paying for 17s... I bought a set of rough non Beadlocks thinking it was the best I could do but these weren't much more. Was it 1/4" total or 1/4" off the threaded part? Did you do anything special to protect the threads? I'll probably put spacers out back but keep the fronts tucked to help prevent rubbing...
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AKentPhoto
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That looks great! And, tbh, I kinda dig the stuffed look with no lift.
Tys expedition
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i cut roughly 1/4-3/8 total each side using a sawzall with a 12-14tpi blade. i just went kinda slow cause at full speed it burned a blade up real quick. when i slowed the speed down it cut no problem. took maybe three minutes a side. sprayers the blade intermittently with wd40. then took a piece of cardboard and pushed it over the axle and sprayed the end with spray paint to prevent rust. worked like a charm. i think i posted photos of the process if you search raptor wheels it comes up. now we just need to raptor suspension swap and were all set. im working on collecting the parts slowly
Why don’t you use a F-150 long travel kit vs buying Raptor parts?
https://www.bajakits.com/i-26380435-15-ford-f150-4wd-long-travel-race-kit.html
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AKentPhoto
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Too wide and too much travel IMHO,
Not to mention you can find people unloading stock parts cheap that go that route...
Not to mention you can find people unloading stock parts cheap that go that route...
Tys expedition
Well-Known Member
yep... too wide too much travel. have to go raptor front clip or really cut fenders would be my guess. also i don't want to go to uniballs or other offroad parts. i like the idea of a factory engineered system designed for long life and good ride. lets face it... this expedition is never trying to catch air. just bombing fire roads in the southwest and getting to those remote campsites. when i did my wheels i only measured four inches of total wheel travel front and rear. i think that's what makes the truck feel so jumpy. with stock raptor kit i should have way more room to absorb bumps.
lastly i was able to source complete coilovers for 300 pair shipped. show me a 3 inch internal bypass on the market for 150 bucks and ill be impressed. i added up the complete parts list on taska for the rest of the front parts. right at 2k like 1995 or something. that's a pretty cheap mid travel setup. even if i pay a shop to install. the only stock part i might consider upgrading is to use rcv axles. they make really great axels and i get rid of crappy stock boots that constantly tear with the heat down here.
Tys expedition
Well-Known Member
this kit is cool but 5400 without shocks. the fox 3.0s are almost the same price i think. that's 10k total not to mention body mods. even stock raptor stuff i might need to bump stop to keep it out of the front fender. im not ready to breakout the sawzall and cut the fenders yet. but in a few years i might be
You better start a build thread. It would be super cool if it works out. I would guess you will need glass fenders no mater what. Unless you run small tires or it gives you a big lift. Are you going to a straight axle in the rear? I want a 6” lift and it’s pretty much impossible with the rear end design. Unless I want to ditch the IRS.
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AKentPhoto
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I'll bet you a case of beer you need fenders with stock Raptor CAs... Especially with anything larger than 33s...
Catching air is the easiest thing you can do in a Raptor... Just looks the coolest on the gram. It's the unannounced holes and kickers you have to worry about. When the suspension only has half the travel to soak up the same, if not more inertia. Hence why we had Frame Gate...
I need to look under there again. Is there an easy way to put some hydros on the rear so it has a fighting chance to keep up with the front? I'll never forget the first time I got to drive a truck with properly setup bumps... Buttah
If any off road shop happens to be reading this... Adding adjustable height bump stops (or at least be able to swap to different lengths) could be a way to combat rear droop when towing like SVC's Raptor setup... Its not as convenient as airbags but you also get the bonus of being able to hit speed bumps at any speed.
Catching air is the easiest thing you can do in a Raptor... Just looks the coolest on the gram. It's the unannounced holes and kickers you have to worry about. When the suspension only has half the travel to soak up the same, if not more inertia. Hence why we had Frame Gate...
I need to look under there again. Is there an easy way to put some hydros on the rear so it has a fighting chance to keep up with the front? I'll never forget the first time I got to drive a truck with properly setup bumps... Buttah
If any off road shop happens to be reading this... Adding adjustable height bump stops (or at least be able to swap to different lengths) could be a way to combat rear droop when towing like SVC's Raptor setup... Its not as convenient as airbags but you also get the bonus of being able to hit speed bumps at any speed.
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