Popping Noise From Rear A/C Blower '03 Expo

[ELVATO]

Thanks for the write up. I've made this a sticky, since it seems to be a common enough problem.

 

[Steps]

Great write up!

 

[wakenride]

Temp fix turn permanent

Well, just finished taking about my rear quarter panel, still putting it back together.

Basically, the motor that controls the door that decides which way the air goes (roof or floor) is bad. Well, not the motor, but one of the gears. It's the same exact motor that is used for the temperature blend door, so I'm not surprised that fails, as well.

So, as a temp fix, I "set" it to where the door would remain for roof air only, and disconnected it. I'll be looking for a replacement one at a junkyard or something. You can get one new from rockauto.com for 39, though WhiteFX4 said he got his from the dealer for 35.

I'll post instructions on how to take off the rear quarter panel later, as well as some (crappy) pix. I'm also going to try and see if the motor is accessible by taking out the cup holder. Would probably save a lot of time doing it that way.

I pulled the power supply to the lower motor, no noise. Switching from ceiling to floor still works. Problem solved for a/c? I'll try heat tomorrow

 

[ELVATO]

If the ceiling/floor (top motor, horizontal) works without thumping, then it is probably the temp motor ((lower, vertical). The thumping should cease for a couple seconds when changing between temps (full cold to full hot.) Or, if you already have acces to it, just pop it up and see of the gears are broken.

 

[wakenride]

Yes the temp motor

Pulled the supply and AC works no thumping. Heat does not work so I will replace the motor before winter ;-) I think I will pull the trim panel off my hands are too big to work through the cup holder. THX!

 

[joezek]

Motor Reset Procedure

I thought there was a Reset Procedure any time one of the blend door motors was changed? On my explorer I had to press and hold two of the climate control buttons to enter the maintenance menu, and that would display any errors with the door motors etc. I'm pretty sure that's where I reset the codes.

 

[ELVATO]

It might be needed on an electric one. Mine is the manual type, and I didn't need a reset.

 

[joezek]

From the FORD shop manual, referring to the electronic climate control display on the 2003 models:

"The self-test can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed."
"
To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler temperature) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent DTCs and then turn OFF (display blank).
To exit self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the DATC/EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs."
"...B2266 2266 N/A (LH) lower blend door failure or short B2267 2267 N/A (RH) upper blend door failure or short

 

[pjcwik]

Worked like a champ!!

Great thread!
I popped the cup holder and tray out---took out the three screws exactly as described. I took the cover off the motor and there were the broken teeth! I'm a computer geek, not really a car guy so I was very proud of myself for doing this. After taking the cover off and gears out I took the beige gear by itself and put it back in the damper hole and then gave it a little twist (easy twist) to close the damper and make the air flow from the ceiling. I live in Arizona and its summer-- so this will be good enough until I can find the gears or a replacement motor.
I do have one question---The top of the plastic quarter panel doesn't seem to click in right, so not sure how that is supposed to fit in right. (Note it was not clicked in before I started the fix, so not related)
BTW my Expy is a 2004 XLT.

Thanks again!!!

 

[SPLFTW]

This expe forum kicks ass this helped me out so much

 

[tallsville]

ok quick question. when ac is on there is a what sounds like hissing coming from the rear panel. im only using front air. is this normal? if not what could it be? my a/c is not blowing cold. it was refilled last year and i put some new stop leak coolant in. it blows a lil colder but still no icicles. TIA for any help and info

 

[fordgirl2004]

Popping Noise From Rear AC Blower 04

Hello, I have this same noise, can you tell me the name of the parts? I am going to attempt to change this myself. Thank you. Pam

 

[wakenride]

Yl5z-19e616-aa

Hello, I have this same noise, can you tell me the name of the parts? I am going to attempt to change this myself. Thank you. Pam

This is the manufacturer's part number.

I found it on ebay:click here

 

[paramedic70002]

Well I pulled the plug on the clicky noise last summer and all was well. Now the wife informs me there is no heat to the rear unit. Did I trade one problem for another or what do you guys think is the problem now?

 

[mmears1]

The rear a/c blower on my '03 Expo has started to make a popping noise whenever I run the rear a/c. I pulled of the rear tray to get a closer looking and it almost sounds like there is a ball or something that just keeps getting tossed around by the blower. Of course the factory warranty just expired so I'd like to at least give a shot at trying to figure out the problem myself. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, how did you fix it?

Thanks,:shootout:

It's a $30 actuator behind the rear passenger-side panel. This cheesy little plastic part has an even cheesier gear that breaks easily. The dealership LOVES is and will charge $400 to $600 to fix it and make it sound like brain surgery. Go to a local NAPA store, tell them your Expedition rear air unit is making a "thumping / clicking" noise. Chances are they'll know exactly what it is. If not, call the dealership....they will definitely know the part. Anyway, buy it from NAPA (or Advance...or anyone BUT the dealership). Take it to a reputable service shop and ask them to replace it. Takes about 45 min. tops. Good luck. By the way, I'm on my FIFTH ONE...... yep.... 5!!!!

 

[mmears1]

Sorry for being late to this thread, but I finally got around to fixing my rear A/C which has been out for months. Btw - great input and photos from all contributors. It made fixing my A/C pretty easy.

Since I was having the same problem, I opted to skip the $75 dealer part cost. Instead, I found a similar actuator (in a Lincoln Mountaineer) at the junk yard and used it for parts. All the gears inside my old actuator had teeth missing. So I replaced the gear with the new ones. Here's the kicker...I noticed that no matter which position I have the selector on (ceiling or floor vents), the motor in the actuator is always turning. So there is constant pressure exerted against the gears. This seems odd. But when I re-assembled the actuator and put it all together, everything works great. However, I'm thinking it's only a matter of time until that continuous pressure on the gear teeth is going to cause one/some to break off. Considering how many people have had this problem, maybe it's a design flaw...where the motor never actually cuts-out, and this is causing the problems. Or does my system have another problem somewhere else? NOTE: The only way (I know) to tell if your actuator is doing the same thing as mine is to take it apart and plug it in with the top off. This allows the motor and gears to "pop" (not click or grind) letting you know if the motor is constantly engaged.

It's a MAJOR DESIGN FLAW and Ford won't do anything about it except let their Dealerships make a boatload of money fixing it...over and over and over. Mine has failed 5 TIMES. It's a 30 cent part with a $400 pricetag (at the dealership).

 

[wakenride]

Yours is the temp motor

Well I pulled the plug on the clicky noise last summer and all was well. Now the wife informs me there is no heat to the rear unit. Did I trade one problem for another or what do you guys think is the problem now?

I had the same exact problem. It's the motor that is mounted vertically. I got the part on ebay and bought a 5/16 ratcheting box wrench at Sears for 8 bucks. I pulled the cup holder and the recessed tray. I have huge hands so I had to pull back the major plastic cover to get it there. I plugged in the new motor before I mounted it. The shaft did not line up, so I had to start the car and play with the floor to head mixing knob until it aligned. Hint, tie a long string to your wrench and to your wrist in case you drop it. Took about 45 mins. -jeff

ps the ebay seller had the part to me in 3 days very reliable

 

[svtfiveoh]

Just got back from the junk yard, picked up a few gears from an Explorer. Installed 2 new ones in both boxes and now all is good. The junk yard wouldn't even charge me, said the parts were to small.

 

[anjy834u]

well it is difficult to that stuff on ur own. the bolts specially can be very tricky. great work .

 

[Turx]

On the subject of "Rear A/C", I have an issue. System is properly charged, front a/c works great, rear won't get cold, or very rarely and only for a short time. Blockage or a valve in the refergent line somewhere that goes bad. I'd like to get this resolved, it's my only issue on a great running vehicle.