Rear Sway bar?

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Johnb21

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I am sure this has been mentioned before and just wondering if there is a tuner (if possible) working on this, ..as to me extra roll stiffness would be nice, but it is the rebound damping that is the issue for me.
Any thoughts here? I drive mostly on pavement. My 2005 Tahoe with bilsteins were awesome on rebound and my wife agrees better that techno Expedition.
302A here.
Thanks!
 
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Deadman

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I am sure this has been mentioned before and just wondering if there is a tuner (if possible) working on this, ..as to me extra roll stiffness would be nice, but it is the rebound damping that is the issue for me.
Any thoughts here? I drive mostly on pavement. My 2005 Tahoe with bilsteins were awesome on rebound and my wife agrees better that techno Expedition.
302A here.
Thanks!

Unfortunately our vehicle isn't popular enough for anyone to sink their time and efforts into this on the stock parts. You might be able to find aftermarket struts with better valving, but you kinda have to buy them and try them to find out how the valving is.....
 

MattB9418

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I am sure this has been mentioned before and just wondering if there is a tuner (if possible) working on this, ..as to me extra roll stiffness would be nice, but it is the rebound damping that is the issue for me.
Any thoughts here? I drive mostly on pavement. My 2005 Tahoe with bilsteins were awesome on rebound and my wife agrees better that techno Expedition.
302A here.
Thanks!
Bilstein 5100s on order for me and sumo springs helped a lot with the oscillating of the rear while towing.
 
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Hi Everyone,

Thought I might help since people are doing this in their driveways. You do want to use the correct torque specs on these. I'm a little surprised Hellwig hasn't included that in their install instructions. (maybe they do?) That said I came here to see everyone's experience on these and decided to order some for my wife's vehicle. To help people out I have included a story.... on how I would do it and some torque specs I would use. This is admittedly for 2019 but 4th gen should be covered here. Again you should verify everything on your own.


Front Stabilizer Bar - Removal
  1. With the Vehicle in N, position it on a hoist.
  2. Note: Do not use power tools to remove or install the stabilizer bar link nuts. Damage to the stabilizer bar link ball joints and boots may occur. The stabilizer bar links are designed with low friction ball joints that have a low breakaway torque. Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the ball stud from turning while removing or installing the stabilizer bar link nut.
    1. On both sides. Remove and discard the front stabilizer bar link upper nut. Torque: 59 lb.ft (80 Nm ) *(lower nut torque use the same)
  3. If equipped: Remove the 4 underbody shield retainers and the underbody shield. Torque: 79 lb.in (8 Nm)
  4. Note: To prevent the stabilizer bar from moving freely in the suspension system, increasing the possibility of contacting or damaging surrounding components such as the tires or front driveshaft; the raised ring on the stabilizer bar must be secured in the inner groove of the stabilizer bar bushing on the driver's side of the vehicle. Note the position of each component before removal
    1. On both sides. Remove and discard the front stabilizer bar bracket nuts. Torque: 46 lb.ft (63 Nm)
    2. On both sides. Remove and discard the front stabilizer bar bracket retainer.
    3. Remove the front stabilizer bar.
Front Stabilizer Bar - Installation
  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Rear Stabilizer Bar - Removal

Note: Suspension fasteners are critical parts that affect the performance of vital components and systems. Failure of these fasteners may result in major service expenses. Use the same or equivalent part if replacement is necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Tighten fasteners as specified.

  1. Remove the wheel and tire.
  2. Note: Do not use power tools to remove or install the stabilizer bar link nuts. Damage to the stabilizer bar link ball joints and boots may occur. Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the ball stud from turning while removing or installing the stabilizer bar link nut.
    1. On Both sides. Remove and discard the rear stabilizer bar link nut and keep aside stabilizer bar link.
  3. On both sides:
    1. Remove and discard the rear stabilizer bar bracket nuts.
    2. Remove the rear stabilizer bar.
    3. Remove the rear stabilizer bar bushings.
    4. Remove and discard the rear stabilizer bar stud plates.

Rear Stabilizer Bar - Installation
  1. On both sides Inspect and thoroughly clean both sides of the frame bracket mounting surfaces.
  2. On both sides.
    1. Insert the new stud plates into the frame bracket holes.
    2. Inspect and if necessary, install new rear stabilizer bar bushings.
    3. Install the rear stabilizer bar.
    4. Install the new rear stabilizer bar bracket nuts. Torque: 35 lb.ft (48 Nm)
  3. Note: Do not use power tools to remove or install the stabilizer bar link nuts. Damage to the stabilizer bar link ball joints and boots may occur. The stabilizer bar links are designed with low friction ball joints that have a low breakaway torque.
    1. On both sides. Position the rear stabilizer bar link and install the new rear stabilizer bar link nut. Torque: 46 lb.ft (63 Nm)
  4. Install the wheel and tire.

Hope this is helpful to some of you. Feel free to read this to your kids at night, they will fall asleep quickly.
 

5280tunage

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The directions for @2019ExpeditionMax are pretty sweet but I will say I did both of mine a bit simpler. I do wish I had the torque specs, but for the front I put the vehicle on ramps, did everything as expected. For the rear, I didn't even use ramps, definitely didn't take any wheels/tires off as generally with sway bars, you want full weight on the suspension.

When I went back and replaced the end links on the front, I decided not to even put it on ramps, though it would have been a little easier of I had. But I also wasn't 100% on the end links lengths so I wanted the suspension to be at resting position to properly cut and measure them.

But the torque specs are awesome. Most of mine I just did about a 1/3rd of a turn past hard, and then double checked them about 50-100 miles later.
 

Deep8174

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Anyone else waiting from Hellwig for their orders? I ordered mine Feb 17 and still "processing".
 
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The directions for @2019ExpeditionMax are pretty sweet but I will say I did both of mine a bit simpler. I do wish I had the torque specs, but for the front I put the vehicle on ramps, did everything as expected. For the rear, I didn't even use ramps, definitely didn't take any wheels/tires off as generally with sway bars, you want full weight on the suspension.

When I went back and replaced the end links on the front, I decided not to even put it on ramps, though it would have been a little easier of I had. But I also wasn't 100% on the end links lengths so I wanted the suspension to be at resting position to properly cut and measure them.

But the torque specs are awesome. Most of mine I just did about a 1/3rd of a turn past hard, and then double checked them about 50-100 miles later.
A million ways to skin a cat; I just wanted those who have never tried something like this to have all the steps. Also, doing them on-ramps is just fine, especially if you have oversized tires you'll have plenty of room. I mainly wanted to share proper torque specs and highlight some information on the stabilizer bar links that I think people may not fully appreciate on this Gen. It's also worth reminding some that you will want the vehicle suspension at its normal ride height when you do your final torque on the stabilizer bar links.
 
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Johnb21

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Unfortunately our vehicle isn't popular enough for anyone to sink their time and efforts into this on the stock parts. You might be able to find aftermarket struts with better valving, but you kinda have to buy them and try them to find out how the valving is.....

Agreed, just thought I would throw it out there. Thanks for your kind reply. I knew it was a pie-in-the-sky question.
 

Alwaysthinkin

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Installed the rear sway bar today with the Moog end links. Took a short drive and could tell the difference almost immediately. I will see how it does on my favorite round-a-bout tomorrow...

Front sway bar delivery date has changed from 4/20 to 5/15 if I remember correctly.

Speaking of rear install, I did it with no ramps and felt more like a contortionist at times. Actually, used duct tape to hold the open end wrench several times so I could torque the nuts down. Also, don't know how others did the rubber mounts for the body but I ended up starting at the end of the bar and moved the rubber in. Once I was past where the rubber mounts were to go I pried the rubber open and put another open end wrench handle to hold the rubber open, greased (the grease is incredibly sticky) up the correct location on the sway bar, and then moved the mount into position and removed wrench. Probably a better way but worked really well.

Any recommendations for ramps when it comes time to do the front? I threw out my last ramps when I moved from Colorado to Georgia because they slid out from under the tires. Had to use a 2X4 against the garage wall in order to get my Camaro "on board".
 

5280tunage

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Installed the rear sway bar today with the Moog end links. Took a short drive and could tell the difference almost immediately. I will see how it does on my favorite round-a-bout tomorrow...

Front sway bar delivery date has changed from 4/20 to 5/15 if I remember correctly.

Speaking of rear install, I did it with no ramps and felt more like a contortionist at times. Actually, used duct tape to hold the open end wrench several times so I could torque the nuts down. Also, don't know how others did the rubber mounts for the body but I ended up starting at the end of the bar and moved the rubber in. Once I was past where the rubber mounts were to go I pried the rubber open and put another open end wrench handle to hold the rubber open, greased (the grease is incredibly sticky) up the correct location on the sway bar, and then moved the mount into position and removed wrench. Probably a better way but worked really well.

Any recommendations for ramps when it comes time to do the front? I threw out my last ramps when I moved from Colorado to Georgia because they slid out from under the tires. Had to use a 2X4 against the garage wall in order to get my Camaro "on board".

I used ramps on the front to install them but when I put the end links on I didn't, but that's because I wanted to be exactly sure on the length of the end links before I cut them. I would recommend ramps just because it's a little easier to get right under the bar to hold it in place. I held it in place with a forearm while I started threading the nuts by hand. The front is substantially heavier, last thing I wanted was it falling on my face. Be sure to loosely put everything together, bounce the vehicle a few times if you can, that start to tighten it up. The bouncing can help it self center a little.
 

Alwaysthinkin

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I used ramps on the front to install them but when I put the end links on I didn't, but that's because I wanted to be exactly sure on the length of the end links before I cut them. I would recommend ramps just because it's a little easier to get right under the bar to hold it in place. I held it in place with a forearm while I started threading the nuts by hand. The front is substantially heavier, last thing I wanted was it falling on my face. Be sure to loosely put everything together, bounce the vehicle a few times if you can, that start to tighten it up. The bouncing can help it self center a little.
Thanks for the suggestions. I always say "I need all the help I can get". :) What type of ramps are you using and do they work well with the Expy?
 

5280tunage

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I use a set of Blitz Rhino Ramps. These are older ones but they say they are rated to 8k pounds. I've had them through 3 different cars and they are still great. I will say, the diameter of the tires on these expy's is such that they barely fit on these ramps. You have to be 100% sure it's firmly in place front to back, chock the rear, etc. Once I get my rig back, I'm planning on doing a ton of work under the car, so I will likely put some jack stands under, just as an added measure.

The only other thing with these, is that even though they have the rubber pads underneath to keep them from slipping, I put my expy in 4wheel, otherwise they tend to push out. But secondarily, having it in 4wheel tends to make me feel a little safer, preventing roll.

PXL_20210419_214802970.jpg
 
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ETC13

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I use a set of Blitz Rhino Ramps. These are older ones but they say they are rated to 8k pounds. I've had them through 3 different cars and they are still great. I will say, the diameter of the tires on these expy's is such that they barely fit on these ramps. You have to be 100% sure it's firmly in place front to back, chock the rear, etc. Once I get my rig back, I'm planning on doing a ton of work under the car, so I will likely put some jack stands under, just as an added measure.

The only other thing with these, is that even though they have the rubber pads underneath to keep them from slipping, I put my expy in 4wheel, otherwise they tend to push out. But secondarily, having it in 4wheel tends to make me feel a little safer, preventing roll.

View attachment 41707
Gave a set of those away as to me they were more for a car than a truck. Have a different set that has room to spare and are higher as they are designed specifically for a truck. Had them for years so not sure if the brand at this point.

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Alwaysthinkin

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So, took the vehicle for a longer drive today after installing the rear sway bar and end links yesterday. Happy, happy, happy! I was actually able to take a line going into the round-a-bout and hold it! None of this trying to adjust for the vehicle moving around as you turn. Noticed the improvement on every single curve during the drive. Way more in touch with the road and made for a much more enjoyable drive. Front sway bar next.....
 

Going_Going_Gone

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You guys are all making me jealous. I ordered both bars from Summit Racing in February and just yesterday got a text from FedEx that they were out for delivery. No delivery yesterday and today started out with another text with a link to parcel tracking website. Tracking website revealed that yesterday's shipment was returned to the terminal due to packaging damage and a replacement shipment (from Ohio) was to be expected Thursday. Later today I get another text with a link to tracking showing expected delivery m over to Friday. I'll believe it when I see it. FedEx (ground) is in a class of ineptitude all by itself.
 

Alwaysthinkin

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You guys are all making me jealous. I ordered both bars from Summit Racing in February and just yesterday got a text from FedEx that they were out for delivery. No delivery yesterday and today started out with another text with a link to parcel tracking website. Tracking website revealed that yesterday's shipment was returned to the terminal due to packaging damage and a replacement shipment (from Ohio) was to be expected Thursday. Later today I get another text with a link to tracking showing expected delivery m over to Friday. I'll believe it when I see it. FedEx (ground) is in a class of ineptitude all by itself.
I ordered both rear and front sway bar from Summit Racing on April 2,2021. Received rear sway bar on April 11 (supposed to be April 8 but was delayed in shipping/FedEx) with front sway bar expected April 20. Front has since been changed to May 15 and now, I just checked, May 3, 2021. Sounds like Summit has some internal issues regarding orders. In the "old days" they would have said your order fell behind the file cabinet. Not sure what they say now....
 
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