Replacement brake pads

[Yupster Dog]

Does anyone know where there is a comparison between OEM and ANY aftermarket pads and/or rotors? I never tow a trailer but I drive my 2017 Expi like a sports car and I would like to find something with more stopping power without upgrading the calipers.

Any "upgrade" would require caliper change like a 6 piston system.

The OEM is more than enough stopping power for just the truck. (if you were towing in the mountains you might consider it) and the only hills I remember in Florida are the overpasses.

There are usually three different pads
1 the softest and cheapest but generate a lot of brake dust
2 semi-metallic (mid-grade) little harder pad and little less brake dust
3 ceramic (usually most expensive and the hardest pad.

If you driving like a bat out of hell and then stomping the brakes everywhere i suggest the softest and cheapest pads. just for the fact of generating the least amount of heat. you will use up faster but at least you have less chance of warping rotors and overheating the calipers.

 

[lbv150]

I use only OEM parts. Never an issue. The trucks were engineered with them.

 

[1exped]

If you can get these pads, they are pretty good: https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/home/our-products/brakes/motorcraft-super-duty-pads.html

I got them for my Explorer, very happy. They are better than the last set of regular Ford Pads.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

I use only OEM parts. Never an issue. The trucks were engineered with them.

(1) The replacement OEM parts are rarely ever the same parts as the ones that came on the vehicle, so in most cases the truck wasn't engineered with them.
(2) There are plenty of OEM parts that are simply garbage, so it makes little sense to keep using them simply because they're OEM. The ties rods on the old Crown Vics come to mind. Those were garbage and prone to an early death. For the 3rd gen Expeditions, the rear shocks come to mind. Window motors/regulators and blend door actuators are prone to an early death on all Fords. If there's something better out there, it doesn't make any sense to use OEM just because it says "Motorcraft" on the box.

 

[lbv150]

(1) The replacement OEM parts are rarely ever the same parts as the ones that came on the vehicle, so in most cases the truck wasn't engineered with them.
(2) There are plenty of OEM parts that are simply garbage, so it makes little sense to keep using them simply because they're OEM. The ties rods on the old Crown Vics come to mind. Those were garbage and prone to an early death. For the 3rd gen Expeditions, the rear shocks come to mind. Window motors/regulators and blend door actuators are prone to an early death on all Fords. If there's something better out there, it doesn't make any sense to use OEM just because it says "Motorcraft" on the box.

Nah not for me, anything we own from construction equipment to my '16 Expy...only oem parts. Anything I have to repair even the kitchen faucet gets OEM. Only if a part is no longer available will I buy the highest quality aftermarket replacement. My brother in law on the other hand has a fleet of what I like to call Napalacs...his Caddies all have Napa parts. Now he is cheeping out his BMW with Napa parts...

 

[07navi]

I have good luck with aftermarket parts, when I think of OEM parts I picture paying way too much for what they are. Like man-up said; just because it's oem it doesn't necessarily make it any better.

Getting back to the brake pads; just because the factory puts ceramic pads in everything doesn't make them better. Better for who? You couldn't pay me to run those things.

 

[1970Maverick]

Any "upgrade" would require caliper change like a 6 piston system.

The OEM is more than enough stopping power for just the truck. (if you were towing in the mountains you might consider it) and the only hills I remember in Florida are the overpasses.

There are usually three different pads
1 the softest and cheapest but generate a lot of brake dust
2 semi-metallic (mid-grade) little harder pad and little less brake dust
3 ceramic (usually most expensive and the hardest pad.

If you driving like a bat out of hell and then stomping the brakes everywhere i suggest the softest and cheapest pads. just for the fact of generating the least amount of heat. you will use up faster but at least you have less chance of warping rotors and overheating the calipers.

Please educate me about soft pads, what do you mean by soft?

 

[07navi]

Please educate me about soft pads, what do you mean by soft?

Metallic, not semi. Basically metal with a binding material............stops fastest

They don't generate much dust at all but I don't do a lot of heavy braking.

 

[Yupster Dog]

Please educate me about soft pads, what do you mean by soft?

Usually the cheapest no matter what brand you buy is the softest pad.
Organic brake pads (also known as NAO, or “non-asbestos organic”) are composed of various materials—like glass, fiber, rubber, carbon and Kevlar—mixed with binding resins that hold them together.

Semi-metallic adds a percentage of metal into that mix.

I'm guessing ceramic is self explanatory

The harder the pad the more heat generated when you apply the brakes. That is why if you drive hard on the gas hard on the brake the softest pad will generate the least heat. But it will need to be changed more often and it will create the most brake dust on wheels.

There is rotors with slots or holes in them some come in kits with the pads.(I have never used) But that is NOT A UPGRADE you will have the same as stock equipment stopping power it just helps disburse the heat better.

Please educaute me more about why you think you need upgraded brakes?

 

[RichardH]

My .02 cents based on Yupster's comment.

When I had 2 Porsche 928's, I called a supplier to get upgraded rotors, brakes and pads. He simply asked me if I can lock up the brakes or if there was any fade. I told him no. He said you're fine, you don't need an upgrade - I was not tracking these. This is an 87 and 85 and had a soccer mom pull in front and slam on brakes. I slammed on the brakes and never seen so much smoke from my front wheels locking up. No flat spots to mention. But excellent front/rear bias.

I think the original brake setup is GTG for the expedition. Below is with stock calipers and ceramic pads:

For reference, on some remote roads with no other traffic I have tried: emergency braking (excellent) in rain (ABS worked fine), acceleration in rain/snow and of course LSD kicked in and rear kicked out a little bit to the right, even tried a power slide to see if I'm in an icy/snowy area how the truck handles. Steering response is sort of slow but I was able to correct and go the direction I wanted.