Popping Noise From Rear A/C Blower '03 Expo

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Big White

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I just replaced the blend door servo this weekend. Not bad, but I did use the dorman part. On another forum, it was suggested the dorman part was junk, and would not last long. Who knows. I'll report back if it fails. Got it from advanced auto for about 45 bucks with a limited lifetime warranty. (Read: we will exchange it ONCE)

Whomever had this XP before me just unplugged the unit and left the broken one there. That made me scratch my head. You can get the dorman part for $30 at amazon, 45 local, 80 from a stealer. Why go through the hassle of getting that far, and not changing it out. Only takes a minute once your there.
 

Hamfisted

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Because they are all junk. Any brand you buy will have a short lifespan. The temperature actuator (the one on the side of the unit...) seems to fail most often. It seems to move a lot trying to control the temp in the rear. The air flow director (the actuator on the top of the unit...) doesn't seem to go through all the cycling that the temperature actuator does, so it will last much longer. People just unplug the temperature actuator and control the vehicle temp with the dash unit. Until it fails too, then shut it all off and roll down the windows... LOL.


-Mike
 
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zimman20

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This thread has been a huge help to me, as this forum often is...time to pay it forward. :angels25:

These are for the rear/auxiliary....both of my motors were gone (2005 EB Expy) but the lower one was making the most racket.

Ford # on the upper part motor (the one that can be reached through the cup holder/tray being removed), responsible for air direction ceiling/floor:

2L2H-19E616-AA ----> This translates to Motorcraft # YH1743


Ford # on the lower/side mounted motor (responsible for hot/cold blend):

3L1H-19E616-AA ----> This translates to Motorcraft # YH1749

NOW - for the lower motor, hot/cold blend door - I could not find that Ford # anywhere on the internet...!!! The upper motor was all over the web but the lower was a mystery. I initially ordered the wrong part from an online retailer (autopartstomorrow.com) but by the time I figured that out they'd already shipped it - still have to deal with the return. Went to Ford locally here and the guys at the parts counter initially gave me the wrong part # as well (GRRRRR!!!!). Turns out that Ford changed the part # on the lower to 3L1Z-19E616-AB which converts to the Motorcraft part # YH-1749 as mentioned above and the dealer cannot even cross-reference the original # on the part (3L1H-19E616-AA)!

I stayed away from the Dorman parts altogether after reading a bunch of different forums that reference this problem - the general consensus is that the Dorman parts will fail much earlier than the OEM parts and thus, even for the cheaper price - I avoided the possible hassle. YMMV and all that, choose your own path, grasshopper. :console:

I paid ~$50 shipped from autopartstomorrow.com for the upper and $67.xx with tax for the lower from Ford. Could have done better on the lower but I gave up looking for correct part # online and went to the dealer in case I was wrong again - and again, they managed to get it wrong the first time, too and had to refund me in full for the part but we put our heads together and managed to get the correct part the second time. The dealer closest to me (Huntersville Ford) says they normally stock these because they sell so many of them....go figure! :mfr_omg:

Hope the above helps someone! :happy160:
 

JohnHammer

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Good to know; I'm in Mooresville & have to fix this on my Expy too. Thanks for the info!

J


This thread has been a huge help to me, as this forum often is...time to pay it forward. :angels25:

These are for the rear/auxiliary....both of my motors were gone (2005 EB Expy) but the lower one was making the most racket.

Ford # on the upper part motor (the one that can be reached through the cup holder/tray being removed), responsible for air direction ceiling/floor:

2L2H-19E616-AA ----> This translates to Motorcraft # YH1743


Ford # on the lower/side mounted motor (responsible for hot/cold blend):

3L1H-19E616-AA ----> This translates to Motorcraft # YH1749

NOW - for the lower motor, hot/cold blend door - I could not find that Ford # anywhere on the internet...!!! The upper motor was all over the web but the lower was a mystery. I initially ordered the wrong part from an online retailer (autopartstomorrow.com) but by the time I figured that out they'd already shipped it - still have to deal with the return. Went to Ford locally here and the guys at the parts counter initially gave me the wrong part # as well (GRRRRR!!!!). Turns out that Ford changed the part # on the lower to 3L1Z-19E616-AB which converts to the Motorcraft part # YH-1749 as mentioned above and the dealer cannot even cross-reference the original # on the part (3L1H-19E616-AA)!

I stayed away from the Dorman parts altogether after reading a bunch of different forums that reference this problem - the general consensus is that the Dorman parts will fail much earlier than the OEM parts and thus, even for the cheaper price - I avoided the possible hassle. YMMV and all that, choose your own path, grasshopper. :console:

I paid ~$50 shipped from autopartstomorrow.com for the upper and $67.xx with tax for the lower from Ford. Could have done better on the lower but I gave up looking for correct part # online and went to the dealer in case I was wrong again - and again, they managed to get it wrong the first time, too and had to refund me in full for the part but we put our heads together and managed to get the correct part the second time. The dealer closest to me (Huntersville Ford) says they normally stock these because they sell so many of them....go figure! :mfr_omg:

Hope the above helps someone! :happy160:
 

sarge816

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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributed solutions in this thread. I had the dreaded knocking coming from the rear air-intake and immediately looked up this thread. Following the instructions and photos, I ordered the OEM Ford replacement part (mine was the easy to replace top/bottom air) off of Amazon.com for $55 shipped and replaced it myself. I popped out the cup holder and tray and in 30 minutes I had perfectly working rear air once again. This was imperative in Texas with two infants, so thanks again for everyone who saved me $500+.

:peace:
 

FordGate

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So I found 3 part #s for a 2003. Two for the top motor and 1 for the bottom.

Top Motor
YH-1858 HVAC Blend Door Motor Air Distribution Mode Door, With D-Shaped Shaft
YH-1743 HVAC Blend Door Motor Air Distribution Mode Door, With Cross-Shaped Shaft

Bottom Motor
YH-1767 HVAC Blend Door Motor Temperature Blend Door, With D-Shaped Shaft

How do you know which type you have for the top motor? Take it out and look before buying or is there any other way?

RenderIllustration.ashx
 

zimman20

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So I found 3 part #s for a 2003. Two for the top motor and 1 for the bottom.

Top Motor
YH-1858 HVAC Blend Door Motor Air Distribution Mode Door, With D-Shaped Shaft
YH-1743 HVAC Blend Door Motor Air Distribution Mode Door, With Cross-Shaped Shaft

Bottom Motor
YH-1767 HVAC Blend Door Motor Temperature Blend Door, With D-Shaped Shaft

How do you know which type you have for the top motor? Take it out and look before buying or is there any other way?

RenderIllustration.ashx

My suggestion would be, YES - take it/them out and match up the number on the part before you buy anything. The top unit is easy to get to through the cupholder - the bottom unit requires unbolting the seat belt and taking off the interior trim until you can pull down that inside rear shell enough to expose the lower motor. You can remove it this way.

Hope that helps!
 

FordGate

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OK I just got done with the lower motor. That might be the easier motor. I don't think you need to remove anything to get to either motor. You can pull out the side enough to get to all 4 screws. The top motor only has 3 screws (this is the floor/roof airflow motor). And yes, I can see why this breaks! The motor runs and only resistance stops it. Changing the flow from roof to floor reverses the motor but it just runs until the resistance from the door cam stops it from running anymore. As long as the system is on, this resistance is there. What a STUPID design.

The lower motor is the blend door motor. It should not break due to the design it just moves back and forth but has a rheostat to stop the motor when the correct temperature is reached.

I needed to remove the top motor first to see what design it was, star or D cam. I have the star cam style.
 

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