5.4L Triton timing set, replace oil pump?

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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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HOLY SH*T WHAT A DAY. So today the Starter crapped out, it only turns over after you hold the key 20+ seconds so the solenoid went out and isn’t pulling in.....so it starts and a roller follower collapsed and now massive ticking from under passenger valve train cover...the truck has forced my hand I have no choice but to start the timing job today and get a few roller follower from Ford......anyway doing new starter today and then timing job starts tomorrow.
 

07navi

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HOLY SH*T WHAT A DAY. So today the Starter crapped out, it only turns over after you hold the key 20+ seconds so the solenoid went out and isn’t pulling in.....so it starts and a roller follower collapsed and now massive ticking from under passenger valve train cover...the truck has forced my hand I have no choice but to start the timing job today and get a few roller follower from Ford......anyway doing new starter today and then timing job starts tomorrow.
How many miles on it? At least you know how to get the starter out now. :waytogo:
 
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JExpedition07

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Not much more than mine and I know you take good care of it, that's scary.

Heck this truck has always been babied too.....the seats and interior aren’t even worn and it all still looks new lol!!!!
 
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JExpedition07

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False alarm in collapsed lifter...I forgot to torque down the top bolt on the passenger down pipe (had mid pipe pipe out for converter) and it was leaking exhaust because the bolt vibrated loose.

Dealer won’t have new starter for me till tomorrow. I specifically want the older style production starter and not the “improved” one. I like the production one because they are much more loud/masculine sounding than the new style when they turn over for some reason.
 
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Shantheman73

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False alarm in collapsed lifter...I forgot to torque down the top bolt on the passenger down pipe (had mid pipe pipe out for converter) and it was leaking exhaust because the bolt vibrated loose.

Dealer won’t have new starter for me till tomorrow. I specifically want the older style production starter and not the “improved” one. I like the production one because they are much more loud/masculine sounding than the new style when they turn over for some reason.

Lol I had the newer one put in. Now that I have the tensioners fixed...I LOVE how quietly she starts.
Does one last longer than the other I wonder?


2007 Ford Expedition Limited
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JExpedition07

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Lol I had the newer one put in. Now that I have the tensioners fixed...I LOVE how quietly she starts.
Does one last longer than the other I wonder?


2007 Ford Expedition Limited
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Idk I just remember I hated when my dad had the updated one put in his E-350 it was too quiet. I asked the dealer and they said they had the original as used in production starter or the improved A/M Ford retail spec one. I asked for the production spec because I like the extra noise.....hence I have to wait for it to come from warehouse lol
 
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07navi

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Idk I just remember I hated when my dad had the updated one put in his E-350 it was too quiet. I asked the dealer and they said they had the original as used in production starter or the improved A/M Ford retail spec one. I asked for the production spec because I like the extra noise.....hence I have to wait for it to come from warehouse lol
I get it, I kinda' liked the old Mopar starters...…….lol
 
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JExpedition07

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Planning to pull the front cover Monday and dive in now that I’ve recovered from the TC job lol. Not replacing camphasers since I have no codes or dieseling just going after the typical failure points of the tensioners, oil pump, etc.
 
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JExpedition07

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Has anyone dropped the oil pan without removing the differential and axles? Ive heard you have to remove all that stuff. If I find any chunks are missing from the guides that is a must do.
 

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Planning to pull the front cover Monday and dive in now that I’ve recovered from the TC job lol. Not replacing camphasers since I have no codes or dieseling just going after the typical failure points of the tensioners, oil pump, etc.
Don't forget to put a rag under the pump when you take it off and Maculoco used an 8mm? flexible gear wrench with a curved cat's paw held underneath for that one hard to get at pump bolt. I saw some online for a few bucks but probably would take too long to get. Some people drop the front of the pan but you don't need to. I used the old rubber face plate gasket on mine and it worked fine. I was thinking about using the hardening red Permatex # 1 on the tensioners for added insurance but haven't yet.
 

07navi

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Has anyone dropped the oil pan without removing the differential and axles? Ive heard you have to remove all that stuff. If I find any chunks are missing from the guides that is a must do.
You don't need to drop the pan and I doubt if your guides are bad. Mine looked like new at over 200k miles and didn't eve bother to put the new ones in I got. You would have to block 90% of the pick-up screen for it not to work anyway. I saw one that affected the oil pressure but it was mostly ground metal from elsewhere blocking it. Do you have a real oil pressure gauge?
 
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JExpedition07

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Started tearing into the truck this morning, not looking forward to the power steering pump but beyond that looks straight forward.
9B963AFD-F2FF-4F0E-9F0D-882EF9C4AC4F.jpeg
 

07navi

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Started tearing into the truck this morning, not looking forward to the power steering pump but beyond that looks straight forward.
View attachment 35490
PS pump is easier than your starter was, it's just 3 bolts and then lay it aside. Orielly's etc loans the tool for the fan nut for free, lefty loosy. You can borrow the crank pully puller also if you don't have one, an impact wrench easier makes that easier too. I used my little 18V impact driver for the bolts and an electric 1/2" drive one for the pulley. It took me 18 hours total but I left the valve covers on.
 
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max78

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An air chisel on a wrench you dont care for is the absolute best way to remove that stupid fan clutch!

Dont pull the PS pully, i had the puller, and wrong installer. Thay made the job way longer, removing the 3 bolts that i had to anyways was way easier.

Bolting the pickup tube to the pump can be a pain, and very easy to start cross threaded.

Overall the job is not bad at all. Just take your time and be careful.

I removed everything on a saturday, installed everything on a sunday. Probably 10 hours total time spent on it. An extra 2 hours was wasted for store runs, the closest parts store is a 20min drive, one way.
 

07navi

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An air chisel on a wrench you dont care for is the absolute best way to remove that stupid fan clutch!

Dont pull the PS pully, i had the puller, and wrong installer. Thay made the job way longer, removing the 3 bolts that i had to anyways was way easier.

Bolting the pickup tube to the pump can be a pain, and very easy to start cross threaded.

Overall the job is not bad at all. Just take your time and be careful.

I removed everything on a saturday, installed everything on a sunday. Probably 10 hours total time spent on it. An extra 2 hours was wasted for store runs, the closest parts store is a 20min drive, one way.
I was going to say air chisel but most people don't have a compressor and air hammer. There are other ways on u-tube also.
 
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JExpedition07

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Got everything out of the way this morning including fan shroud, coolant hose, fuse box, intake stuff, fan, vacuum reservoir, etc. At this point it’s time to get a puller for the crank pulley and I am ready to start getting inside the timing cover shortly. PS pump is being about the same difficulty as the starter was = PITA.

For now watched some YT tricks at getting the timing cover off without pulling valve covers off and just loosening them up. I’m installing new tensioners, guides, arms, and a new oil pump for good measure so it’s not getting the whole 9 yards. I’ve watched a bunch of videos where guys just went after the oil pump alone and it seems straight forward. The guides and arms as well as tensioners are super easy.....you install the tensioners to torque specs and pull the grenade pin and ready to go it seems. I have the special little ratcheting wrench for the oil pump too.

My biggest concern is knowing when I have oil pressure from the new pump (I.e how many times should I crank the engine with fuel pump fuse pulled?). Surely it’s not going to show any pressure on the gauge without it running so that is my only unknown at this point.
 
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Got everything out of the way this morning including fan shroud, coolant hose, fuse box, intake stuff, fan, vacuum reservoir, etc. At this point it’s time to get a puller for the crank pulley and I am ready to start getting inside the timing cover shortly. PS pump is being about the same difficulty as the starter was = PITA.

For now watched some YT tricks at getting the timing cover off without pulling valve covers off and just loosening them up. I’m installing new tensioners, guides, arms, and a new oil pump for good measure so it’s not getting the whole 9 yards. I’ve watched a bunch of videos where guys just went after the oil pump alone and it seems straight forward. The guides and arms as well as tensioners are super easy.....you install the tensioners to torque specs and pull the grenade pin and ready to go it seems. I have the special little ratcheting wrench for the oil pump too.

My biggest concern is knowing when I have oil pressure from the new pump (I.e how many times should I crank the engine with fuel pump fuse pulled?). Surely it’s not going to show any pressure on the gauge without it running so that is my only unknown at this point.

To prime the oil pump, you'll need to disassemble the pump and put fresh engine oil into where the gerotor gear is. After the job is done and it's buttoned up, crank it for approx. 30 seconds or so until the OP gauge picks up (holding the accelerator to the floor keeps the engine from starting on the F-150s without needing to pull the fuse and Expedition may be the same but I cannot confirm it). The oil gauge should pick up in that amount of time and crank it for about 10-15 more seconds after the gauge picks up. Only takes 7 PSI to trigger the gauge.
 
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