5.4L Triton timing set, replace oil pump?

[07navi]

Got everything out of the way this morning including fan shroud, coolant hose, fuse box, intake stuff, fan, vacuum reservoir, etc. At this point it’s time to get a puller for the crank pulley and I am ready to start getting inside the timing cover shortly. PS pump is being about the same difficulty as the starter was = PITA.

For now watched some YT tricks at getting the timing cover off without pulling valve covers off and just loosening them up. I’m installing new tensioners, guides, arms, and a new oil pump for good measure so it’s not getting the whole 9 yards. I’ve watched a bunch of videos where guys just went after the oil pump alone and it seems straight forward. The guides and arms as well as tensioners are super easy.....you install the tensioners to torque specs and pull the grenade pin and ready to go it seems. I have the special little ratcheting wrench for the oil pump too.

My biggest concern is knowing when I have oil pressure from the new pump (I.e how many times should I crank the engine with fuel pump fuse pulled?). Surely it’s not going to show any pressure on the gauge without it running so that is my only unknown at this point.

Makuloco shows that. He got pressure just from cranking but had the pump primed. He said if not, just start it and it will come up in a few seconds but not to worry. You can also pull the crank sensor instead of fuses. I didn't torque anything but I never do...just me. Your guides are probably good so I wouldn't bother with the pan. Having the exact tools helps with removing the PS pump, it shouldn't be that hard. You definitely need to replace both tensioners. Somebody on Utube thought they could just put sealer on the old ones but they had to tear it all down again the next day.

 

[JExpedition07]

That’s the primary reason I went with the oe pump, don’t want the new tensioners blowing from excessive pressure.

 

[07navi]

That’s the primary reason I went with the oe pump, don’t want the new tensioners blowing from excessive pressure.

That’s the primary reason I went with the oe pump, don’t want the new tensioners blowing from excessive pressure.

I agree it's going to be a Ford pump for me next time. They probably improved since '07 anyway. (If they even needed it).

 

[JExpedition07]

Got it all torn down and done for the day. I can tell you with certainty the worst part of this job is the PS pump. It was an absolute bastard lol. Nothing else is too bad getting the cover loosens and ready to come off.

 

[JExpedition07]

Forgot my quick disassembly tip. The 2007 Expedition does NOT use the same bottom fastener hole for the Power Steering pump as shown by FordTechMakuloco so his F-150 video doesn’t apply. Ours use a factory stud instead on the back hole that a wiring harness attaches to. Wiggle the plastic harness clip off the stud and then it’s a 10mm. Ours is much easier than the F-150. You must remove the oil filter but then you have easy access with a deep well socket or ratcheting box wrench since it’s not right up near the pulley like the F-150 one.

 

[07navi]

Forgot my quick disassembly tip. The 2007 Expedition does NOT use the same bottom fastener hole for the Power Steering pump as shown by FordTechMakuloco so his F-150 video doesn’t apply. Ours use a factory stud instead on the back hole that a wiring harness attaches to. Wiggle the plastic harness clip off the stud and then it’s a 10mm. Ours is much easier than the F-150. You must remove the oil filter but then you have easy access with a deep well socket or ratcheting box wrench since it’s not right up near the pulley like the F-150 one.

My Excursion was probably a little different too and having the right tools helps a bunch.

 

[max78]

As for priming the pump, i didnt take anything apart. I poured 5w-20 in all the ports and on the gear, moved it around, then let it saok in a container while i worked on getting the valve cover off.

My 09, you simply hold the gas pedal to the floor and that will disable the injectors and not allow it to start. I had to crank it for a solid 30 seconds i think and pressure showed at the gauge. I tried cranking for 10ish second bursts and never built pressure, it needed the continuous pumping to prime correctly.

 

[JExpedition07]

Also the 5.4L 3V uses a special electric clutch for the fan, none of the parts stores sell or rent the tool for its removal. You need a giant adjustable crescent and some shock.

 

[07navi]

Also the 5.4L 3V uses a special electric clutch for the fan, none of the parts stores sell or rent the tool for its removal. You need a giant adjustable crescent and some shock.

How about a pipe wrench, will that fit in there?

 

[JExpedition07]

How about a pipe wrench, will that fit in there?

Unfortunately no, the 3V clutch barely leaves you any room and you cannot fit two wrenches in there because the clutch is right on top of the pulley. It’s the tightest fan assembly I’ve ever seen. I had to put the belt back on then hit the crescent with a sledge, that shock broke it loose and was good to go. Ford has a special tool for the 3V fan that apparently nobody else can get their hands on, I checked every parts store and even rented a universal, none worked you needed Fords tool or to keep the belt on and shock it off.

 

[JExpedition07]

Guys If you do the timing job REMOVE the radiator. Mine sprung a leak after being slightly grazed by a tool....cheap aluminum garbage. Not going any further on the Expy until I can purchase a radiator so my truck is moth balled until further notice. Ford wants $300.

 

[JExpedition07]

The carnage:

 

[JExpedition07]

Well my dad is a Trane HVAC dealer and he said he can fix that easily with their newer aluminum welding product. He said their newer commercial rooftop condensing units use the same thin aluminum fins on their coils and for warranty work (leaks) it works well.

 

[07navi]

Well my dad is a Trane HVAC dealer and he said he can fix that easily with their newer aluminum welding product. He said their newer commercial rooftop condensing units use the same thin aluminum fins on their coils and for warranty work (leaks) it works well.

I was going to say you can fix that, I think JB weld has something for it also. There isn't much room for the crank pully puller, IDK if that is what it was...……..
If you have time can you see how big the opening needs to be on my Crescent wrench for the fan nut?

 

[JExpedition07]

Not much progress today.....spent hours trying to get the bottom oil pan bolts to no success. At this point I’m desperate.....has anyone done this or have any tips for the oil pan bolts??? I cannot get ANYTHING to work. Also decided I’m going to pull the valve covers and re-time engine. Rocker arms are in stock at dealer so I’m going to inspect and replace any that are on the edge.

Surprised I didn’t hear about this, the front oil pan bolts are by far much more difficult than the PS pump removal everyone complains about. The oil pan bolts make the PS pump look like child’s play.

 

[JExpedition07]

Glad I pulled passenger cover, 3rd cylinder back rocker arm seen better days. Engine is very clean inside for 160k though.

 

[07navi]

Nevermind

 

[JExpedition07]

No broken guides, everything inside the engine is in tact. left tensioner gasket blown out. Camshafts are in perfect condition. Only wear on anything is one roller follower on passenger bank. I can’t believe how clean my engine is for 160k, you could eat out if this thing. Moral of the story here is open it up when you get the startup rattle and fix now. You can save a perfectly good engine.

Timing chains still hold tight and look clean. I was on the fence about keeping the old ones but after seeing the inside here I feel much more comfortable with the route I’m taking. Everything in 5.4 town is looking good and it seems my only problem was one blown out tensioner gasket.

 

[07navi]

No broken guides, everything inside the engine is in tact. left tensioner gasket blown out. Camshafts are in perfect condition. Only wear on anything is one roller follower on passenger bank. I can’t believe how clean my engine is for 160k, you could eat out if this thing. Moral of the story here is open it up when you get the startup rattle and fix now. You can save a perfectly good engine.

Timing chains still hold tight and look clean. I was on the fence about keeping the old ones but after seeing the inside here I feel much more comfortable with the route I’m taking. Everything in 5.4 town is looking good and it seems my only problem was one blown out tensioner gasket.

I don't think the chains ever wear out unless they were run on very low oil or the oil was rarely changed. The chains were tight on my Excursion at 200+ miles so I left them in plus the guides were like new so I left them in too. I trust the OEM chains more than the ones made in China anyway. Actually the only thing I changed was both tensioners and didn't even remove the valve covers. I even used the same old rubber cover plate gasket and had zero leaks...……….but it still took 18 hours.

 

[JExpedition07]

A few things I’ve learned......blow off the valve covers before removal. I got some dust under it and now have to shop vac and clean it all out. Seconds is I’m glad I did this now not later. Notice no broken guides so I do not have to pull the pan. You’ll save yourself a lot of work! Here you can see where the chain slap was starting to slight wear on the cover. This was my startup noise.