2000 Expedition 4.6

[Billme]

I’m down for a timing chain replacement, but find this on No.1 cylinder.. That explains the slight misfire.. I’m going to order a scope .. I guess the head gasket is gone.. Y’all look it over.. Maybe you guys see something I don’t..

 

[Billme]

No comments on the injector color?

 

[Billme]

I determined it was just a intake leak, so I’m going to continue with timing chain update.. I’m not a pro, but I don’t mind a good fight.. Just hard getting around, lol

 

[Hamfisted]

Yeah, probably just coolant from that intake gasket leaking between the water jacket and the intake port. It's not uncommon. Do you smell any exhaust gases in your coolant reservoir, or has it been blowing coolant out the cap from being overpressure ? Replace the two O-rings on that water pipe there under the intake before you re-assemble the motor. If you haven't already. Pull the crossover pipe off the intake manifold and inspect the mating surface for delamination and install new gaskets on the crossover. This will save you headaches down the road. Is it still the factory Ford intake? Or has someone replaced it with a Chinese Dorman ?


HVAC Coolant Pipe O-rings at Rock Auto

Fel Pro Intake Crossover Gasket Set at Rock Auto









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[Billme]

Thanks for the reply, intake is the all metal, crossover is one piece with the manifold.. You are correct leaking manifold to the number one…. Should I stick with it? It is heavy lol
Anyway I was thinking head gasket, but found the water leak, on the line going to the rear heater..
I had thought it might be a head gasket.. I ordered a small inspection camera to have a look.. No1 was full of carbon gunk, due to the misfire.. All other cylinders look good..
Been taking a break on the project, but I thought I would look down the oil filler with the camera.. I wish I hadn’t done it.. Saw some shiny small pieces of metal.. Probably have a follower bearing going , but the engine wasn’t tapping excessive..
I got to get the harness off the engine.. Hard for me to get back there at that mounting point, then I can take the valve cover off to see what’s going on
Thanks a bunch, really appreciate the advice

 

[Billme]

I have the heater return water pipe unbolted, but it must be rusted welded to those orings, and inlet.. Tried a little heat..
Do I have to cut it off?

Thanks for the reply, intake is the all metal, crossover is one piece with the manifold.. You are correct leaking manifold to the number one…. Should I stick with it? It is heavy lol
Anyway I was thinking head gasket, but found the water leak, on the line going to the rear heater..
I had thought it might be a head gasket.. I ordered a small inspection camera to have a look.. No1 was full of carbon gunk, due to the misfire.. All other cylinders look good..
Been taking a break on the project, but I thought I would look down the oil filler with the camera.. I wish I hadn’t done it.. Saw some shiny small pieces of metal.. Probably have a follower bearing going , but the engine wasn’t tapping excessive..
I got to get the harness off the engine.. Hard for me to get back there at that mounting point, then I can take the valve cover off to see what’s going on
Thanks a bunch, really appreciate the advice

 

[Hamfisted]

Feel around back there for a second bolt. Might be hidden by the harness back there. But you should be able to just wiggle and pull that pipe off.

 

[Billme]

I did, but it’s welded on the nipple of the pump. I bent it a little trying to work back and forth.. I should have used another technique, like vice grips near the mount.. May have to cut it off with a dremel lol

 

[Hamfisted]

Wow ! How 'bout a propane torch to heat it up a little ? Does it look like it's rusted on there or something ? Some penetrating oil ?



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[Billme]

I used a heat gun, but will do the torch ..looks good on the outside, but just not moving one bit..I’ll get a new pipe after this lol
Next fight will be trying to reach the O2 sensor connection..We taking our time.. Thx for the comeback

 

[Hamfisted]

Ok. If you do end up cutting it off be very careful not to damage the nipple. It's holding the O-rings and it's aluminum. Did it go for a long time without good coolant in it ? I haven't seen them that hard to get off. Must be some hard ass buildup in there. If you blew most of the water out of the pipe maybe shoot a bunch of penetrating oil in the open end and let it run down there to the nipple area. Or if you do cut the pipe don't cut it right there at the nipple, to avoid damaging the nipple. Cut it a few inches away or something so you can get Visegrips on it to twist and work it loose.





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[Billme]

Thanks Hamfisted, good advice… It will be Monday before I get back on it….
I had let my son use it for his business.. Since then it hasn’t been serviced good as when I had it..But, it was running pretty good when I decided it’s time for a timing chain change..279000 miles .. It was the best vehicle I’ve ever owned.. The body and inside look brand new, so It’s worth to put it back right.. At least for me, anyway lol
Thx again

 

[Billme]

Got back on it today, just couldn’t wait to see under the valve cover..I can’t believe how in good shape it is for the mileage..Lobes don’t have a scratch on them.. Best I can tell, the followers are tight..

 

[Hamfisted]

Looks clean ! Must've had regular oil changes ? Looks like you got the heater pipe off ?




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[Billme]

Haven’t done it yet, I’ll do it on the button up stage, lol
I want to see the front now.. It will have to wait in the morning.. Too hot now lol..
When I get all this done, I’m going to drive down there and buy you a good meal, lol
Yep, oil was Castro 5W30 Blend

 

[Billme]

Left side looks even better.. I’m flabbergasted how this looks.. On to the front cover

 

[Billme]

Got delayed due to neck problems.. Old people problems..
Got the cover off, and again, I’m impressed by what I see.. chains are loose, but not enough to hit aluminum lol.. I got to get some cam locks before I go any further..
The passenger side tensioner looks pretty extended.. plastic on the guides look intact, but want know fully, till they come off..

 

[Billme]

After watching Brian’s video, I’m thinking update the followers anyway. I need a spring compressor tool.. Don’t like the idea of the screwdriver technique.. The lower end should go 500 thousand, so I think it will be worth it..
Now I have transmission fluid leaking from the transmission.. It was jacked up in the front.. I did undo the fluid check tube, at the engine, so I could get the valve cover off.. I moved it a little.. .. So much respect for you guys that done this for a living..
It’s all or nothing now, lol

 

[Billme]

Well after having the flu twice this year, I’m ready to get back on the project..
Thanks to Rock Auto my parts are here..
After taking the chains and hides off, I did find the passenger side tensioner went through the guide, and the chain ground it down a little.. So I have metal in the engine..
As soon as I figure out how I want to flush the system ( any recommendations?) I’m going to start putting her back together..

 

[Junkyard Jack]

Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about "flushing" the system. The amount of time it takes to wear that much down would probably result in the metal being in your oil filters as you've changed them over the years. Might not be ideal but you could run some cheap 5w30 through it for a bit at first then maybe after 100 miles or so do another oil change with your oil of choice. I replaced a gazillion timing chains at Nissan and there was no formal flush needed after that job. I've actually seen more issues with the RTV dust when you have to clean up the all the RTV residue do just make sure to clean everything well as you go back together with it. Awesome thread though, it's great to see new life being given to this truck!