bought a 99 5.4 was told needs new motor but doesn't even try to crank over

[ThatOneMike]

12.66 volts dc after being hooked up in car for hours and not falling...infact my fluke crept it up to 12.67 WHILE it was hooked up pos and neg.

 

[ThatOneMike]

after spending an inordinate amount of my life vacuuming straw and horse hair...pretty sure its horse hair...Ive seen a couple of what looks like water spots on the plastic panel behind the rear body windows(though with how dirty it was could have been "put " there by human interference) and the rear wiper housing hole is ...well it looks like it was already repaired...poorly. so as far as electric issues go How much does a shell with a great interior go for now a days? great because I have cleaned it and other than the fact that I wanted to teach the mom who drove this thing around every thing I know about not letting your kids into cars I would later buy, the interior is quite good.

 

[ThatOneMike]

ok so far I've determined the voltage drops on the negative wire not the positive but after the fusible link there'es a rats nest of electrical tape were the negative wire is taped to both positive cables...lol anyway there'es a passive drop from the negative side of about 9 volts if I put my lead on positive terminal to the rats nest it drops about 11 volts I'm going to take some pictures and post later as well as wait for the weekend when I have more hands and mechanical knowledge around to dive further into this...oh and my charger totally green lit my battery so I know that's not bad.

 

[stamp11127]

With the readings that high you have either connected wrong or have massive resistance. Post pics of where you are placing the leads.

Don't know where "SOTA" is so can't help you with selling price.

 

[ThatOneMike]

I will post pictures when I am able to take them and not using both hands to place leads
Maybe you could tell me which leads to correctly place where and I can go double check and let you know.
and where's the best market for these things?

 

[bobmbx]

I will post pictures when I am able to take them and not using both hands to place leads
and where's the best market for these things?

I wish someone would invent magnetic DMM leads.

 

[98eb5.4]

with the info so far, prob an easy to dump at scrap value, or if inclined, part it out

 

[ThatOneMike]

with the info so far, prob an easy to dump at scrap value, or if inclined, part it out

could be said of any car
I'm gonna chase down the electrical issue and see where that goes, I wouldn't see why I couldn't see it for 1k as is, the seats alone are worth half of that quick sale.

 

[Trainmaster]

I have a clean 2000 for sale...

 

[stamp11127]

This may seem a little strange but try to go with it. The meter has two leads, red and black. When checking DC volts the red lead will go on the "more positive" point while the black lead will go on the "more negative" point that is being checked.

Lets say you want to check the connection on a battery terminal. We will use the Positive terminal and clamp for this description. The red lead will be placed on the positive battery post and the black lead will be placed on the positive battery clamp. Any resistance in the connection between post and clamp will force electrons/electricity to pass through the meter and give a reading.

There needs to be a load/resistance on the point being checked. If not you will get the source voltage of the battery.

Most values will be less than 1 volt. If you have anywhere near battery voltage then you probably have the leads connected wrong or a bunch of resistance.

I use CraigsList for my projects.

 

[ThatOneMike]

here's one for you stamp you omnipresent wealth of knowledge. The trailer brake controller where would I expect to find that wired in? behind the dash?

 

[stamp11127]

Not 100% sure but I think a connector for it is located under the dash, driver side.

 

[ThatOneMike]

ok well I can see a strange bubbling in the windshield, is resealing it the only option or has anyone figured out a fix?

 

[ThatOneMike]

should I stick to 5-20 or go synthetic 5-30?

 

[1955moose]

Mike, I sealed mine without removing it. Here's what finally worked for me. I bought a large tube of 3m window sealer, I sealed extensively around upper and lower window. On top of that I sealed the a pillar drivers side. After that 2 coats of brush on flex seal coating to the drivers side bottom about to midway on window bottom. Then to finally deal with problem, I removed plugs from Gem module, and fuse box, squirted in dielectric grease on both plugs. As a final precaution, I wrapped both the fuse box, and Gem with plastic bags. I've been through some pretty intense storms, and all seems well. I didn't want to pay someone to screw up my 18 year old window, so I screwed it up myself! My way worked.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[ThatOneMike]

saw a guy on youtube used roofing sealer. I just don't know if I really want to dig into this just to have it rot apart. I mean the thought "who do I know with a rotisserie, a sand blaster and several gallons of POR?" has already crossed my mind but...I'm not a rich man...nor do I have many friends, so glad to be rich in character.

 

[1955moose]

I too have few friends these days. Wouldn't want to throw a party, and gather buddies. At my age their dead, moved away, or just don't want to be around me anymore. Oh well, moving on. Try my way and don't get too technical. Seal it spray it, and hope the electrical gremlins are gone till Halloween!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[ThatOneMike]

well I'm kind of here, after crawling underneath I have decided that the frame has maybe 2 good years left, followed by the fact that nearly every chassis part looks like fried chicken and all my fittings and plumbing looks like they aren't far behind. I'm leaning towards parting out atm...basically I'm going to change the cheap fluids sand down the starter connections, and maybe track down the wiring issue then start pulling the interior out and disconnecting engine parts. Anyone need anything they wanna pay me enough for to immediately convince me to start parting it out?

 

[ThatOneMike]

ok after pulling the fender flair and wheel well out of the pass side I noticed the body isnt too rusty , in fact above the plastic well looked pristine however everything under the body is def a coin toss. there was a ground strap I need to de-rust, probably my number one suspect for the voltage loss through the negative wire. probably need to find the fuel pump cables tomorrow...I'm assuming that big f*****g strap that sits on the frame in fact sits on the frame ... f**k I miss my 1988 delta 88, where do the decades go? also am I correct in assuming the starter is there under the exhaust ... f**k my life, even my 98 P.I was easier to work on than this. Is this the universe telling me to invest in better footwear?

 

[ThatOneMike]

ok so are there any good "plumbing" kits? coolant,oil,brakes?
or like a "replace the entirety of your chassis" kits? I cant get large kits but sometimes its like you gotta buy two kits and both come repeat parts, also detroit axle, how are the moog parts with these things?
any good junkyards a man should be calling to find great frames?/interchangeable frames?