Compression test 01 Navigator

[TobyU]

Be careful when you start talking about machine shops and stuff. When you start replacing anything over one head you will soon incur more expense than just getting a good used motor and swapping it yourself. There are so many of these good used motors sitting around with tons of life left at that is the most economical way to do it and then he cases. My guess is at least $200 to take one of these heads to a machine shop and have I said okay to put back onto a car. They're going to at least recommend about job on that head and in fix whatever else is messed up with the valve train components. You will soon be at 2 to 250 for that head and then they will always recommend you do the other one. You can get perfectly good running engines for between 350 and $800. Mini that you can hear run before the people pull them out and you pick them up.
And auto repair to me, is about getting the job done adequately for the lowest price possible. Often is cheaper just to start over with another engine when you're doing a labor of yourself and swapping it. It's also easier to swap an engine than it is to pull one head off and replace it in such a sick.

 

[stamp11127]

Prices in Ohio are drastically different than down here in Atlanta. A worn out engine is a grand and up.

 

[TobyU]

Prices in Ohio are drastically different than down here in Atlanta. A worn out engine is a grand and up.

Regions do vary a lot. But junk yards are really high on engines.
I find better deals on Craigslist and FB marketplace but you can't always find what you what want when you need it.
www.car-part.com is the fastest way I have found to locate engines but prices are a little up there. I have found you can not just look at the ones with prices. You HAVE to call the ones that say call for price. I have gotten much better prices this way.
Just had two done this way in last 6 months.

 

[Fordgirl01]

I’ll start keeping my eye out but usually the Navigators I see being sold for parts are 180,000 miles or so. Hopefully it won’t come to that.


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[TobyU]

Was going to say you don't have to limit your search to Navigators but then I remembered that Navigators did some funny things in the first generation.
I think 98 and 99 used a 2 valve or what they call 16 valve standard 5.4. Then in 2000 they went to the 32-valve engine or what some people call for valve.
I can't remember what year yours was but I think it was a 2000 or 2001 so this does limit you to engine options.
I've often wondered how hard it would be 2 switch engines around and I know some people have put the 32-valve Navigator motor into other trucks and cars because it has quite a bit of horsepower.
That's usually more work than most people are willing to do oh, me included. If you have a donor car and you could of course get the ECM and even wiring harness and all that but I would pass on that. I just wonder if you could put a standard 5.4 16 valve in place of a 32-valve and just hook everything up?? I don't know why it wouldn't work because the computer basically tells it to do the same thing. It would definitely be a risk and I'm sure somebody has done and knows but it's not me. You still have eight plugs and 8 coils and you can use your intake and throttle body so the only real difference would be the fact that inside the valve covers there are two more camshafts. You would have to hook your camshaft sensor up to one of them because the standard 5-4 only has one camshaft sensor like a 4.6. I don't see why this wouldn't work or be fairly easy though it might involve replacing a couple of pigtails since they might have changed the connectors on the coils or something like that since the coils are a different style but I do not know if the connectors interchange. I know on the Town Cars from 98-02 they have the first connector and then I believe it's 03 and above they switch the plug on the end even though they look the same they will not fit.

 

[stamp11127]

TobyU she is basically an advanced newbie at busting her knuckles on these. Just going through the steps on pulling the engine will be an eye opener for her - but something to talk about when it is back together and running.

I personally would keep it simple until she gets more experience. If needed pull the engine you have and see what the repairs will cost and what your budget is. Then make the decision on what to do.

 

[TobyU]

I understand that and I was just kind of thinking aloud about putting a 16 valve in place of a 32-valve. That would get quite complicated and could be expensive. I find it easier to pull the engine though than to pull the head and the chassis.
You have to pull the intake to pull the head anyways and remove the exhaust pipe from the manifold the last one I pulled was on an Excursion and since it was taller I pulled the intake anyways so I can get the engine hoist lower between the heads to get more height to clear the core support.
Remember I'm doing this outside in regular conditions on a asphalt driveway.
It's not that many more steps but it seems to make it a lot easier. It is a nightmare working in the chassis like that with all the water leaking everywhere and bending over the fender and everything else.
Pop off the inspection plate and take the four torque converter bolts out, break off or cut off the two manifold to exhaust pipe studs, take the bolts out of the transmission while you're down there the alternator and radiator, leave the AC compressor hooked up and just bungee cord it to the side, take motor mount bolts out (only 1 on each side for Excursion), remove the wiring harness quick connects and lift it out. I swapped an Excursion V10 without even removing the hood. I wouldn't have guessed it possible but it cleared.
I think I could pull one in 45 minutes to an hour 10 if I were in a hurry.

 

[Fordgirl01]

Advanced newbie!! What an excellent description!! I’m hoping to get a chance to tackle the valve cover this weekend then we’ll go from there.

I can tell TobyU is thinking out loud and I do appreciate his insight even though it seems (at the time) way beyond my capability (I still roll his thoughts around so keep them coming). But at one time I even thought changing plugs was beyond my ability......so you never know-right?!

I value all advice I get from this forum. I’ve already learned so much.


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[Fordgirl01]

And yes-it is the 32 valve.


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[rjdelp7]

FordTechMakuloco did a youtube video(type-modular rattle), of a 4.6l 32v intech, with a bad timing chain/tensioner. He tears down the entire front of the motor and removes the oil pan. It will give a good idea, what your dealing with. Your engine may have the same issue. besides the compression problem.

 

[1955moose]

Way back when I had all my hair, I tackled my first rebuild of sorts. My 56 VW bug. It was in 3 boxes. A complete idiots manual, which was for someone stupider than I. I just kind of faked it, matched new parts with old, IE, main/rod bearings, piston rings, etc, and viola, old Herbie came to life. That 36 horse motor ran for 2 years. Would go longer, but a guy offered a 40 horser already to go for $75.00. Our girl, were breaking her in the hard way! It's like learning to drive a 4 speed 435 horse big block 67 vette. After you master that, a Automatic Navigator is a walk in Golden Gate park!

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[Fordgirl01]

FordTechMakuloco did a youtube video(type-modular rattle), of a 4.6l 32v intech, with a bad timing chain/tensioner. He tears down the entire front of the motor and removes the oil pan. It will give a good idea, what your dealing with. Your engine may have the same issue. besides the compression problem.

I’ll have to check that out. I like his videos.


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[Trainmaster]

The only hard part about the valve cover is getting the stuff on and above it out of the way. Give it a good looking over and remember that the cover has to lift up and over the valve train under it, so you need some clearance. Take some photos of any hoses or other stuff that can get confusing when it's time to replace, especially if you are leaving it off overnight.

 

[Fordgirl01]

Well I had a little bit of time today so I started taking valve cover bolts out. I got 6 of them so far and removed the power steering reservoir bracket. I see that big tube that lays over #8 is going to have to come off and maybe a few other things. I’ll be able to get back at it hopefully Sunday.


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[Fordgirl01]

Well I don’t have the valve cover off yet. I am slowly removing things in the way and labeling everything so I can put it back in the right spot! It’s slow going when I have to keep looking stuff up and searching YouTube, but I’ll get it.

I did pop in my cd for the 04 that I got from Bob and there is a section on the 32 valve for removing the valve cover (which apparently requires removing upper intake manifold). Since my cd is for an 04, I wondered about my other 2 Navigators. I assumed my old 99 was the 2v and my 04 was the 3v. I did a little digging around about the 8th character on the VIN numbers (which specifies the engine), and now I’m pretty sure they are also 32v. That must be a Lincoln thing.

I also discovered as I was removing the front tire to get at the EGR tube that this thing has a theft proof lug on each wheel (aftermarket rims) with no tool that I could find anywhere in the vehicle. I finally got it off but it sure did take some extra time and swearing. Then I had to pick up a nice big 1 1/4 wrench (who doesn’t like a reason for a new tool-amirite[emoji51]). The tube came off without too much trouble (probably wouldn’t have been the case if this beauty had been driven around here in the salt)!

I remove a few things each night after work so I think I will actually be able to get that valve cover off this weekend.

I took off the throttle body last night because it looked like it needed cleaning anyway. I’ll pick up some CRC Throttle Body Cleaner to take care of that.

I wanted to post an update so all of you helping me didn’t think I gave up! I can’t thank you guys enough.


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[Atman246]

Yup,that definitely needs a cleaning. I'm wondering out loud though if you should spend any time and money on cleaning the throttle body when you have bigger issues to deal with. Why clean it if you have to end up possibly replacing the whole engine? I know that you can always transfer to the next engine if needed. Just my two cents. Still here wishing you good luck in the teardown. Can't wait to hear the final findings.

 

[Trainmaster]

If you got that EGR tube apart, I want to see what you look like. Any woman who can do that is quite a woman.

 

[stamp11127]

Here is another mechanic tip. PB Blaster is your friend. Make sure you have at least one can handy.

 

[Fordgirl01]

If you got that EGR tube apart, I want to see what you look like. Any woman who can do that is quite a woman.

Well I got the bottom part off-not the top yet. It wasn’t hard since the vehicle hasn’t been driven in salt and isn’t rusty. Im used to stuff that’s rusted so bad it has changed shape and size!!


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[Fordgirl01]

Here is another mechanic tip. PB Blaster is your friend. Make sure you have at least one can handy.

Oh I always have lots of that on hand!! I also sometimes use tranny fluid/acetone mix.


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