Killer Ride
Full Access Members
You can have an exhaust guy do a back pressure test they usually do it for free
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ManUpOrShutUp
Full Access Members
It depends. I purchased a Motorcraft tstat and it was flimsy AF, so I returned it and swapped it for a Stant Superstat. On the other hand, I can't complain too much about their rotors and pads as I have been running the same set since I purchased the vehicle over 60K miles ago and they've still got life left in them. The MC oil filters are pretty decent as well. A few guys over at BITOG have cut them open after 5K and even 10K and the filters still looked good. To top it off, they're less than $4/ea. A lot of the MC stuff is made by other companies anyway (including Purolator, who reportedly makes the MC oil filters).
Or maybe 15w40 Rotella T6 for an older generation motor...
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Maybe don't use Rotella since it is formulated for diesel engines. Find the source of the problem and correct it verses jackleg "fixes".
You may want to perform a leak down test on each cylinder to check the rings.
You may want to perform a leak down test on each cylinder to check the rings.
Trainmaster
Old School Member
...you might need two packages for the 5.4.
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Last I heard, the Motorcraft was a made by purolator and a pure one media in a standard white can.
I am not a fan of overpaying for OEM just because it makes many people feel better but you need no better than a Motorcraft filter. They are also super cheap at Walmart.
Cats are a good check. If they check clear then maybe ...... you say it's not leaking. Have you parked on fresh cardboard to make sure?
No smoke out tailpipe when starting or taking off after hot idle??
I have seen cars that didn't leak use a qt every 200 miles (saturns mainly) and it was rings. Oil control in saturn case.
They get gummed up in the ring lands and cant press out and wipe the oil away.
The fix is to pour 2-3 oz of seafoam or berrymans B12 into the plug hole with piston about 1/2 way up and let it soak for 2 hours.
Then crank over to blow rest of it out and start tehn change oil with 5w-40 Full syn rotella T6.
mobile 5w-40 and 5w-30 is next but not as good.
I have done many of these saturns and rotell t6 even though it's a diesel spec must have better detergent action.
The consumption gets better quickly and continues to improve with every oil change.
I now have one that went from a qt every 200-250 to 400, then 650, then 1500, then over 2000. I can now go 3500 and only add a qt or qt+ between changes.
I have never heard of a 5.4 doing this though.
The 85 and earlier 4.6s had valve stem seal usage and this doesn't help that.
I would try a qt of MMO to clean things up a bit. Leave in for 1500 miles then change oil and then add another with oil change and in 1500 more see if consumption has changed.
No smoke out tailpipe when starting or taking off after hot idle??
I have seen cars that didn't leak use a qt every 200 miles (saturns mainly) and it was rings. Oil control in saturn case.
They get gummed up in the ring lands and cant press out and wipe the oil away.
The fix is to pour 2-3 oz of seafoam or berrymans B12 into the plug hole with piston about 1/2 way up and let it soak for 2 hours.
Then crank over to blow rest of it out and start tehn change oil with 5w-40 Full syn rotella T6.
mobile 5w-40 and 5w-30 is next but not as good.
I have done many of these saturns and rotell t6 even though it's a diesel spec must have better detergent action.
The consumption gets better quickly and continues to improve with every oil change.
I now have one that went from a qt every 200-250 to 400, then 650, then 1500, then over 2000. I can now go 3500 and only add a qt or qt+ between changes.
I have never heard of a 5.4 doing this though.
The 85 and earlier 4.6s had valve stem seal usage and this doesn't help that.
I would try a qt of MMO to clean things up a bit. Leave in for 1500 miles then change oil and then add another with oil change and in 1500 more see if consumption has changed.
Doesn't really make much difference.
another person will swear by quaker state and fram(blasphemy) and still be served the same by vehicles.
More about actually changing the oil and filter at least by 4-5K than (depending syn or dino) than what brands used.
Some people actually do not change filter every oil change and do the every other one.
I think this is nuts considering you can get a fine quality new one for under 4.00.
Well the ones I use must be some kind of black magic. All my Fords use only OEM parts (the old ones getting harder to find OEM) and filters. Changed the oil & filter every 3K with the proper grade oil for the engine with either Motorcraft Semi or Castrol dino. It came from the factory with Motorcraft filters....Don't be like my brother in law who only buys parts from Napa for his vehicles, I call his Caddies Napalacs they have so many parts from there. LOL
Killer Ride
Full Access Members
It doesn't make much difference what kind of disposable parts you use ie:brakes, oil filters, oil, transmission fluid, alternators, batteries, fluids etc. What matters is maintenance at proper intervals with properly spec'd parts and fluids. My other Ford truck has 435,000 mi on it and not one Motorcraft part.
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John S
Member
Check your oil filter adapter gasket for leaks. I was losing a quart a week. Replaced at 201,000 miles. 2000 5.4L. Fixed my oil issue.
If you buy a new vehicle and only use OEM Parts you're just trying to make the manufacturer rich a second time or at least you continue to line their pockets with money.
Plenty of Parts out there just as good as OEM and some over the years have been a good deal better, but all at a significantly cheaper price than going OEM. Especially when you consider that in years past your only option was to buy from a dealer. At least now there is a little bit of competition online for OEM replacement parts.
If you want to use OEM parts that's of course your option but admit you do it because it makes you feel better. No one has a better vehicle because they put a Motorcraft ball joint or control arm or pads and rotors on their car over other brands available.
Plenty of Parts out there just as good as OEM and some over the years have been a good deal better, but all at a significantly cheaper price than going OEM. Especially when you consider that in years past your only option was to buy from a dealer. At least now there is a little bit of competition online for OEM replacement parts.
If you want to use OEM parts that's of course your option but admit you do it because it makes you feel better. No one has a better vehicle because they put a Motorcraft ball joint or control arm or pads and rotors on their car over other brands available.
Killer Ride
Full Access Members
I just drove up and back 1100 mi each way and on first leg driving @ 75mph w jaunts up to 80-85mph I burned 1 full quart.
On return I planned to baby the ole gal but due to lighter traffic and everyone else hauling ass I set cruise control at 80mph w longer intervals at 85 up to 90 on down hill stretches of I24 in Tennessee. Consumed 1 1/2 quarts w hotter weather.
I just changed the oil today. I arrived last night. Drove through 18 hours stopping for gas and coffee.
I use Kendall GT-1 5-30 synthetic w liquid Titanium. Made by ConocoPhillips the same company that makes MC oil for Ford. I use MC oil filters only.
She’s a man baby.
On return I planned to baby the ole gal but due to lighter traffic and everyone else hauling ass I set cruise control at 80mph w longer intervals at 85 up to 90 on down hill stretches of I24 in Tennessee. Consumed 1 1/2 quarts w hotter weather.
I just changed the oil today. I arrived last night. Drove through 18 hours stopping for gas and coffee.
I use Kendall GT-1 5-30 synthetic w liquid Titanium. Made by ConocoPhillips the same company that makes MC oil for Ford. I use MC oil filters only.
She’s a man baby.
That's regulatory stuff
"Diesel oil" is allowed to have more of the sinfully gooood environmental-unfriendlies or something
Trainmaster
Old School Member
I wish I could find good aftermarket suspension parts that aren't OEM. Used to buy Moog, but they've gone Chinese and the last two parts from them were junk.
Otherwise, the chain parts stores carry Auto-Max, Car-Quest, Driveworks.... all import garbage that will hardly give 10K miles. Or I can go on-line and get Mega-Dragon.
Help!
Otherwise, the chain parts stores carry Auto-Max, Car-Quest, Driveworks.... all import garbage that will hardly give 10K miles. Or I can go on-line and get Mega-Dragon.
Help!
You could also use 10w-30 full syn or a HM full syn and might see lower consumption.
I read Ford engineers, expect an engine to last 300K Miles with scheduled maintenance. You sir, are well beyond that. You can try pulling out the dipstick about an inch. In the late 90's, I had a winter beater, Hyundai Excel. It burned oil like crazy. The valve seals and rings were shot. I was told, as you take your foot off the gas, it creates vacuum. The vacuum would suck oil past the worn engine parts. Pulling the dipstick creates a slight vacuum leak, to prevent this. I tried it and cut oil burning in half. I gave the car away in the spring and the girl blew the engine 600mi later. She never check the oil and threw a rod.
Search for Spicer products. Made in ‘Merica last time I purchased. Now I use and get good results w MC.
Sounds like my daughter. I checked the oil in her Chevy sunbird. The stick was bone dry! Car ran fine. I added a quart ... 4 times till I got a reading on the stick. Told her only to use synthetic just in case. Sold the car years later. She says the girl that bought it still driving it. Go figure.
