juan214
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The engine on the truck was swapped out. It ran great. I was working on CD changer in it the battery was going dead because the doors were open. Started it ran for less than a minute and died. Restarted it ran for less than a minute again and died. After that it never started again just cranks. Three four days of mechanical diagnostics all those went fine. Prior to the no start condition the clusters odometer was not working. It was repaired and was working fine, after a week after install it started the dancing gauges issue.
Not sure if this would affect the PATS system but one of the guys was playing with the door key pad unlocking the doors he said the truck didn't start after that.
The fire wall was repainted could the ground not be making contact cause this? Could it be the ground near the solenoid?
I got a cluster from a junkyard it works Odometer, gauges, bulbs, directionals everything. Millage was wrong (I know it not supposed to). Used the cluster to run test diagnostics (see below). Still didn't start.
"I got dtc9601 which is supposed to mean pats received incorrect key code". I bought the truck with this ford key. I towed it to the dealer on Friday 11/6 to re-flash the PATS system and a key. Dealers programming and keys for $270.00 still will not start. Called me said need an additional hour at $110 to diagnose it. Reminded them the HEC cluster was changed. Monday they called back again asked where the old cluster was they needed info from it and would call me later in the day. It was in the truck. I called Thursday morning for an update. They gathered what they needed from it but the Tech couldn't get it started they would call me back. Now they are saying they may need to get another tech to look at it. Been a week now. Need help with this one any Ford techs out there?
Mechanical Diagnostics
1) No CEL not today or prior, OBD II Scanner shows no codes.
2) Checked crank sensor connection, and wires leading to it for wear (entire harness re-wrapped fore install).
3) Checked fuel pump fuse even switched with another 30 Amp fuse. Checked every single fuse while I was at it, both under the hood and under the dash. All checked out fine.
4) Tested the fuel delivery system replaced Fuel Pump Relays twice and back to original relay still the same. Checked relay sockets for power. Constant power is there on terminal 30, ignition power is there on terminal 86 when ignition is turned on. Did the thumb test relay clicks when ignition is turned on.
5) Checked Inertia switch it was not tripped for a reset.
6) Banged on the fuel tank.
7) Turned on the ignition to listen for audible click from fuel pump in tank. Fuel pump replace around two years ago.
8) Injectors: All eight replace two days prior and truck was running then. Tested number one with NOID light (no light) today.
9) COP: All eight replaced.
10) Fuel pressure test: connected tester cranked no pressure. Checked connection restart still nothing. (after checking on another vehicle the tester was no good)
11) PCM: I pulled the battery cables and discharge the system waited for over five minutes see in PCM resets. Still nothing.
12) Fuel Filter replace with a K&N less than 500 miles ago, MPG improved by 2.5 MPG.
13) Battery trickle charged over night and tested OK. Reconnected battery cranked it same thing.
14) Disconnected battery for two days to do the PCM reset didn't work.
15) Ran power to the Pink with Black fuel pump wire, pump ran.
16) Disconnected fuel line after filter, powered the pump fuel flowed.
17) Changed PCM relay
18) Changed Fuel Pump relay
PATS Diagnostics
Step 1
DONE: Is there a fuel cutoff switch on this model? Check Switch
DONE: Check PCM relay (swapped out)
Step 2
DONE: Reset instructions PATS
• This has reset instructions when you get to the point where she turns over but won't start.... re-syncing the pats key anti theft instructions....
If it’s the PATS system......key out of ignition....put key in and turn on but do not start........look at theft light....should be blinking fast.....wait 30 to 45 seconds or until it starts to blink slow or goes out.......turn the key off and remove it from the ignition.........wait 15 seconds....turn key on.....do not start....look at theft light.....should be blinking slow......normal mode.....when wait to start light goes out it should start normal
Step 3
DONE: Check fuse 30 amp.
Step 4
DONE: Is the odometer displaying correctly or is it dashes (------) while the truck is doing this? If the odometer has dashes and there are no codes being set, chances are the truck is losing communication with the pcm. This will also cause the theft light to flash and the truck to turn over but not start. If this is the case, check the wiring around the power distribution box under the hood. Also check all relays and fuses. Ford PCMs are pretty tough so that would be your last bet.
Things You'll Need
• Alarm keypad
• PATS programmed ignition key
Instructions
1. Press the unlock button on your vehicle's key fob to deactivate the alarm. If you've misplaced your remote for the car, use the PATS programmed key to unlock the driver's side door. Then, put the key in the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position. The vehicle's battery should be on, but the engine shouldn't be running.
2. Locate the override button on the alarm box, beneath the driver's side of the dashboard. Press the button and hold it in until the alarm beeps one time. The LED light for the alarm should stop blinking, indicating the anti-theft system is disabled.
3. To reset the vehicle's alarm, put the PATS programmed key in the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position. Press the override button. When the alarm resets, it chirps two times and the LED light begins blinking.
Step 5
DONE: Before you reset the battery; Press and hold the odometer SELECT/RESET button then turn the key to run. Keep holding the button till test shows in the odometer. Release the button. Press and release the button to scroll through the readings till you see dtc. If the cluster has any codes stored you will see them after the dtc.
Not sure if this would affect the PATS system but one of the guys was playing with the door key pad unlocking the doors he said the truck didn't start after that.
The fire wall was repainted could the ground not be making contact cause this? Could it be the ground near the solenoid?
I got a cluster from a junkyard it works Odometer, gauges, bulbs, directionals everything. Millage was wrong (I know it not supposed to). Used the cluster to run test diagnostics (see below). Still didn't start.
"I got dtc9601 which is supposed to mean pats received incorrect key code". I bought the truck with this ford key. I towed it to the dealer on Friday 11/6 to re-flash the PATS system and a key. Dealers programming and keys for $270.00 still will not start. Called me said need an additional hour at $110 to diagnose it. Reminded them the HEC cluster was changed. Monday they called back again asked where the old cluster was they needed info from it and would call me later in the day. It was in the truck. I called Thursday morning for an update. They gathered what they needed from it but the Tech couldn't get it started they would call me back. Now they are saying they may need to get another tech to look at it. Been a week now. Need help with this one any Ford techs out there?
Mechanical Diagnostics
1) No CEL not today or prior, OBD II Scanner shows no codes.
2) Checked crank sensor connection, and wires leading to it for wear (entire harness re-wrapped fore install).
3) Checked fuel pump fuse even switched with another 30 Amp fuse. Checked every single fuse while I was at it, both under the hood and under the dash. All checked out fine.
4) Tested the fuel delivery system replaced Fuel Pump Relays twice and back to original relay still the same. Checked relay sockets for power. Constant power is there on terminal 30, ignition power is there on terminal 86 when ignition is turned on. Did the thumb test relay clicks when ignition is turned on.
5) Checked Inertia switch it was not tripped for a reset.
6) Banged on the fuel tank.
7) Turned on the ignition to listen for audible click from fuel pump in tank. Fuel pump replace around two years ago.
8) Injectors: All eight replace two days prior and truck was running then. Tested number one with NOID light (no light) today.
9) COP: All eight replaced.
10) Fuel pressure test: connected tester cranked no pressure. Checked connection restart still nothing. (after checking on another vehicle the tester was no good)
11) PCM: I pulled the battery cables and discharge the system waited for over five minutes see in PCM resets. Still nothing.
12) Fuel Filter replace with a K&N less than 500 miles ago, MPG improved by 2.5 MPG.
13) Battery trickle charged over night and tested OK. Reconnected battery cranked it same thing.
14) Disconnected battery for two days to do the PCM reset didn't work.
15) Ran power to the Pink with Black fuel pump wire, pump ran.
16) Disconnected fuel line after filter, powered the pump fuel flowed.
17) Changed PCM relay
18) Changed Fuel Pump relay
PATS Diagnostics
Step 1
DONE: Is there a fuel cutoff switch on this model? Check Switch
DONE: Check PCM relay (swapped out)
Step 2
DONE: Reset instructions PATS
• This has reset instructions when you get to the point where she turns over but won't start.... re-syncing the pats key anti theft instructions....
If it’s the PATS system......key out of ignition....put key in and turn on but do not start........look at theft light....should be blinking fast.....wait 30 to 45 seconds or until it starts to blink slow or goes out.......turn the key off and remove it from the ignition.........wait 15 seconds....turn key on.....do not start....look at theft light.....should be blinking slow......normal mode.....when wait to start light goes out it should start normal
Step 3
DONE: Check fuse 30 amp.
Step 4
DONE: Is the odometer displaying correctly or is it dashes (------) while the truck is doing this? If the odometer has dashes and there are no codes being set, chances are the truck is losing communication with the pcm. This will also cause the theft light to flash and the truck to turn over but not start. If this is the case, check the wiring around the power distribution box under the hood. Also check all relays and fuses. Ford PCMs are pretty tough so that would be your last bet.
Things You'll Need
• Alarm keypad
• PATS programmed ignition key
Instructions
1. Press the unlock button on your vehicle's key fob to deactivate the alarm. If you've misplaced your remote for the car, use the PATS programmed key to unlock the driver's side door. Then, put the key in the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position. The vehicle's battery should be on, but the engine shouldn't be running.
2. Locate the override button on the alarm box, beneath the driver's side of the dashboard. Press the button and hold it in until the alarm beeps one time. The LED light for the alarm should stop blinking, indicating the anti-theft system is disabled.
3. To reset the vehicle's alarm, put the PATS programmed key in the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position. Press the override button. When the alarm resets, it chirps two times and the LED light begins blinking.
Step 5
DONE: Before you reset the battery; Press and hold the odometer SELECT/RESET button then turn the key to run. Keep holding the button till test shows in the odometer. Release the button. Press and release the button to scroll through the readings till you see dtc. If the cluster has any codes stored you will see them after the dtc.
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