What did you do to your expedition today?
- Thread starter IMINYOURCHAIR
- Start date
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superexpy
Full Access Members
I Keep telling myself that. One thing I did do to them is I took vinyl wrap and wraped the chrome middle piece. To me it looked allot better or at least on my beast it did.
Replaced the spark plugs, found it had Autolight plugs just standard kind and replaced the wires too and replaced hoses going to the "DPFE" since sombody had used plain fuel line instead of the high temp silicone hoses.
#3 plug had some really cool black lines going from top to bottom that was the arc paths, explained my major miss under load. It never tossed a light but not that it runs like a top, yup check engine light came on so need to hook up reader and see what it shows.
#3 plug had some really cool black lines going from top to bottom that was the arc paths, explained my major miss under load. It never tossed a light but not that it runs like a top, yup check engine light came on so need to hook up reader and see what it shows.
IMINYOURCHAIR
Full Access Members
replaced my master cylinder and changed the oil/filter. she is at 279,805 right now and doing great. ac work and alignment to follow this month then i can actually do some mods. nothing major though
My wife replaced the Fuel Filter on a 2006 Ford Expedition. She's always wanted to do mechanical things, so I've started to work on it with her. It seems like the common recommendation is to replace the fuel filter every 30,000 miles, which seems reasonable since the filter is ~ $10. I don't think the original owners ever replaced it, and it's an easy job. I'll do a writeup later, but essentially you need:
TOOLS
* 8mm socket: To remove the negative battery clamp
* 10mm socket: To remove the fuel filter shield
* Lisle 39400 Angled Disconnect Tool Set (less than $15) to remove fuel lines
* Motorcraft FG986B Fuel Filter; $11, (2006 Expy - may be a different model for your year)
* Eye protection
* Rag to mop up spills
* Small bucket/container to catch fuel drips
* Fire Extinguisher (in case anything goes wrong)
PROCESS
The replacement was easy, and took under 15 minutes. It will probably take less than 5 next time:
* Start the Expedition
* Passenger front footwell: Remove the blue 15a fuse to the fuel pump (#12 position, page 278)
* Let the Expedition stall out to bleed out pressure. It will take between 1-2 minutes to stall out.
* Try to restart it once more to make sure it has no pressure.
* If you don't do the above 4 steps, you'll get a face full of high-pressure gas when removing the filter. Do it.
* Disconnect negative battery cable (8mm) and cover w/a rag (I use a work glove) to prevent sparking
* I choose to wait an hour or two to let everything cool off. You ARE dealing w/fuel.
* Remove fuel filter shield from the tank (2 x 10mm bolts). The shield is on the top front of the fuel tank, driver side. The filter sits on top of the tank, right behind it.
* CAREFUL: If you screw up the following step, it's $75 to replace the entire fuel line. They don't sell the clip seperately:
* Right side hose: Unlock the blue clips and disconnect the line.
* I let the filter hang and drain into my bucket at this point.
* Left side hose: It has a simple metal clip on it. Remove that.
* Left side hose: Use the blue plastic disconnect tool (Lisle 39400) to detach the hose.
* Replace fuel filter. The arrow should point towards the passenger side.
* Reconnect fuel lines on either side of the fuel filter
* Pull a little bit on the lines on either side of the filter to ensure they're snapped in
* Re-insert the 15a blue fuse into the passenger side fusebox.
* Reconnect the negative battery terminal
* Turn your ingnition to RUN (not START) to re-pressurize fuel lines & fill filter w/gas
* Repeat above step 2 times at 10 second intervals to ensure pressurization
* Start your Expedition
* Look under your vehicle to ensure no fuel leaks/drips
* Shut down your Expedition
* Re-install the fuel filter shield shield (2 x 10mm bolts) over the fuel filter.
The whole process will probably take < 10 mins next time. It took a little longer this time since I talked her through some stuff, and she was being extremely careful.
She used to say she could never handle this size (she owned a smaller SUV) but now that she owns a blacked out Expedition, she's in love and wants to take good care of her truck
TOOLS
* 8mm socket: To remove the negative battery clamp
* 10mm socket: To remove the fuel filter shield
* Lisle 39400 Angled Disconnect Tool Set (less than $15) to remove fuel lines
* Motorcraft FG986B Fuel Filter; $11, (2006 Expy - may be a different model for your year)
* Eye protection
* Rag to mop up spills
* Small bucket/container to catch fuel drips
* Fire Extinguisher (in case anything goes wrong)
PROCESS
The replacement was easy, and took under 15 minutes. It will probably take less than 5 next time:
* Start the Expedition
* Passenger front footwell: Remove the blue 15a fuse to the fuel pump (#12 position, page 278)
* Let the Expedition stall out to bleed out pressure. It will take between 1-2 minutes to stall out.
* Try to restart it once more to make sure it has no pressure.
* If you don't do the above 4 steps, you'll get a face full of high-pressure gas when removing the filter. Do it.
* Disconnect negative battery cable (8mm) and cover w/a rag (I use a work glove) to prevent sparking
* I choose to wait an hour or two to let everything cool off. You ARE dealing w/fuel.
* Remove fuel filter shield from the tank (2 x 10mm bolts). The shield is on the top front of the fuel tank, driver side. The filter sits on top of the tank, right behind it.
* CAREFUL: If you screw up the following step, it's $75 to replace the entire fuel line. They don't sell the clip seperately:
* Right side hose: Unlock the blue clips and disconnect the line.
* I let the filter hang and drain into my bucket at this point.
* Left side hose: It has a simple metal clip on it. Remove that.
* Left side hose: Use the blue plastic disconnect tool (Lisle 39400) to detach the hose.
* Replace fuel filter. The arrow should point towards the passenger side.
* Reconnect fuel lines on either side of the fuel filter
* Pull a little bit on the lines on either side of the filter to ensure they're snapped in
* Re-insert the 15a blue fuse into the passenger side fusebox.
* Reconnect the negative battery terminal
* Turn your ingnition to RUN (not START) to re-pressurize fuel lines & fill filter w/gas
* Repeat above step 2 times at 10 second intervals to ensure pressurization
* Start your Expedition
* Look under your vehicle to ensure no fuel leaks/drips
* Shut down your Expedition
* Re-install the fuel filter shield shield (2 x 10mm bolts) over the fuel filter.
The whole process will probably take < 10 mins next time. It took a little longer this time since I talked her through some stuff, and she was being extremely careful.
She used to say she could never handle this size (she owned a smaller SUV) but now that she owns a blacked out Expedition, she's in love and wants to take good care of her truck
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hooraah
Member
Worked on sanding the rust out of the roof. Almost halfway there. This is not a fun project.
Also, replaced my idler and tensioner bearings by pressing out the old ones and pressing in new ones. Only $15 for the bearings instead of $100 for the idler and the tensioner.
Also, replaced my idler and tensioner bearings by pressing out the old ones and pressing in new ones. Only $15 for the bearings instead of $100 for the idler and the tensioner.
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Yudaman
Full Access Members
Lights done!
Finished my headlight upgrades this weekend!
New black background Euro style clear headlights and crystal fogs. Much better lighting with MUCH better looks!
New look
Old factory look
Well worth the money so far!!!
Finished my headlight upgrades this weekend!
New black background Euro style clear headlights and crystal fogs. Much better lighting with MUCH better looks!
New look
Old factory look
Well worth the money so far!!!
superexpy
Full Access Members
Finished my headlight upgrades this weekend!
New black background Euro style clear headlights and crystal fogs. Much better lighting with MUCH better looks!
New look
Old factory look
Well worth the money so far!!!
Looks good!
Also, replaced my idler and tensioner bearings by pressing out the old ones and pressing in new ones. Only $15 for the bearings instead of $100 for the idler and the tensioner.
--------------
Mind sharing what bearing part# / brand you used? I did this on my wife's car about six months ago. Saved a bundle. Thanks!
hooraah
Member
I don't exactly remember the brand that was supplied, maybe F&D? I ordered them on Amazon from JSB great bearings. They were $1.68 each with $6 shipping (total) so I ordered 5 of them for a total of $15.
Looking back I guess 5 was a dumb number because they get replaced in pairs....
Anyway the bearing number itself is 6203-2. I don't remember the dimensions but if you google that part number you'll find them posted.
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Thanks for the info hoorah. I also did some googling earlier this morning and found that same information.
#CG-425 is a Ford INTERNAL part number. The dimensions on the bearing are 40X17X12 mm. O.D=40 I.D=17 ----- Part #6203-2RSHC3.
I just ordered 2 SKF bearings from here: Over 200 million bearings to search from
Pricey at $25 shipped, but I only wanted to change these out once.
#CG-425 is a Ford INTERNAL part number. The dimensions on the bearing are 40X17X12 mm. O.D=40 I.D=17 ----- Part #6203-2RSHC3.
I just ordered 2 SKF bearings from here: Over 200 million bearings to search from
Pricey at $25 shipped, but I only wanted to change these out once.
Yudaman
Full Access Members
I don't EVER recommend to my customers to press the bearings out and reinstall on Ford pulleys!!!!!!!!!!
They are stamped steel and when you press the bearing out and the new one in, the press fit is gone. That means during regular driving, the pulley can and may walk itself off the bearing.
I sell bearings as a major product line at work, and I replaced my pulleys brand new recently. As far as the replacement, I believe they are just 6203-2rs bearings. That is the most popular size in the entire world (just a little useless trivia for you). And you will get what you pay for! SKF is the best in the world. Period. If you bought some for less than $2 each, I would keep an eye on them.
Not bashing on your work, I just have to be able to sleep at night. If I didn't at least give you warning of the consequences I would prolly have nightmares.
They are stamped steel and when you press the bearing out and the new one in, the press fit is gone. That means during regular driving, the pulley can and may walk itself off the bearing.
I sell bearings as a major product line at work, and I replaced my pulleys brand new recently. As far as the replacement, I believe they are just 6203-2rs bearings. That is the most popular size in the entire world (just a little useless trivia for you). And you will get what you pay for! SKF is the best in the world. Period. If you bought some for less than $2 each, I would keep an eye on them.
Not bashing on your work, I just have to be able to sleep at night. If I didn't at least give you warning of the consequences I would prolly have nightmares.
QbanCgar
Full Access Members
Finished my headlight upgrades this weekend!
New black background Euro style clear headlights and crystal fogs. Much better lighting with MUCH better looks!
New look
Old factory look
Well worth the money so far!!!
SWEET look! i plan on upgrading my head & tail lights. where did you get get the clear fog lights from, & how much did they set you back?
That's great info/perspective from a guy that sells bearings everyday...but as I've already laid down the cash, I'm going to have to have to roll the dice. I wonder if it makes sense to either score/marr the outer bearing or the inside of the pulley, slightly crease/dimple the pulley ID on either side of the bearing, or use adhesive of some kind as a preventative measure. I know...
but this kind of backward thinking has got through life a lot if years.Just read this... I may try it: "When you go to replace the bearing, freeze the bearing (overnight) and throw the pulley in the oven(hour at 450*). Then press it in."
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Yudaman
Full Access Members
That's great info/perspective from a guy that sells bearings everyday...but as I've already laid down the cash, I'm going to have to have to roll the dice. I wonder if it makes sense to either score/marr the outer bearing or the inside of the pulley, slightly crease/dimple the pulley ID on either side of the bearing, or use adhesive of some kind as a preventative measure. I know...
I would recommend that you just leave them as is and just keep an eye on things.
As far as marring or scoring, that is always a very bad idea. Not only does it make the press wrong, but it also raises metal which can cause deformation of the outer ring of the bearing. Those deformations will in effect become "speedbumps" for the rolling elements (balls in the bearing). Those "speedbumps" will get smashed down by the rolling elements and create a "pothole". Like any pothole in a roadway, the more times a car's tire hits it, the bigger it gets. And then your bearing is junk.
About the best way to ensure proper press fit would be to use a retaining compound. Like a Loctite number 609.
Sorry for the lecture, but after 17 years at an industrial distribution company that used to be named "Bearings Inc." I have been through far too many hours of bearing training. LOL
Yudaman
Full Access Members
Yes and no...
Temperature differential installation is great! But, I would modify the directions a little.
A 6203 wont take very long in the freezer to get cold (and shrink). Overnight is fine if you have the time, but realistically it will only take maybe 15 minutes.
As far as the heating, with the stamped steel pulleys I feel that 450 is too hot! You are bordering on altering the temper of the steel. After all, you only need to get a couple of thousanth's clearance gain for the slip fit. 200-220 degrees is typically the magic number. Hot enough for expansion, yet not enough to alter the temper of the steel.
hooraah
Member
I see what you are saying could happen, but in reality I cannot see the press fit being altered significantly based on the amount of force it took to press those things in there. Besides, if the pressing was going to stress the base material past yield, it would in the thinner web section of the pulley going from the ID to the OD of the pulley, not the relatively thicker ID section. Again, I can picture a design where that may happen, I just don't see it happening in this case. I could be wrong though.
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