03 5.4L (2 valve) head gasket replacement - Disassembly questions

[Eric M]

Yes, it was a blown head gasket. After mulling this over, I decided to buy two reconditioned heads from these guys: https://www.cylinder-heads.com/
$355/head
Complete and ready to install
5-year warranty
Surprisingly, it doesn't matter what condition your cores are in. No matter what, they will accept them and not charge you, according to the core return policy posted on their website.

 

[Hamfisted]

That shop gets sketchy reviews. It used to be called Odessa Cyl Heads. Did you check the Cylinder Head Exchange down there in CA ? If you do end up with those heads from Clearwater make sure to go over them closely and give them a valve leak check before you send your old heads back to them. Many complaints about their valve jobs and leaking valves afterward. Fingers crossed.





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[BlackCoffee]

I don't see many problems that a good cleaning and a little work wouldn't solve. I would work with what you have rather than some shop over the internet. Find a good shop and see if you can get somebody with a good reputation to rebuild them. There are no cam bearings. I would mic out the journals and cam to see if there is any wear. If still good, pitting on the mating surface to the block, dirty oil passages, and cam journal wear are usually the problem areas. As Hamfist suggested, lapping the valves yourself is fairly easy. Rockers arms don't usually go bad, and valve seals are simple.

 

[Eric M]

Thanks for the advice and Hamfisted and BlackCoffee. I ordered those heads online with hesitation, as Clearwater is a large operation which I know could mean quality control issues. So I ended up cancelling the order. I'm going to take the heads to a reputable machine shop in the next county over and pay them to recondition them. I have spent enough time on this project that I am happy to pay someone else to deal with the heads and address issues that I might not be able to see. They have done two Volvo heads for me with really good results. Not super cheap, however.

 

[BlackCoffee]

If they are good, you should be happy with getting them done correctly. No additional cost, and not to question their quality, make sure they pull the oil passage plugs at the end of the heads and flush out the oil passages. The PAX side head is at the end of oil path and is the one that gets plugged. It should be no cost since they are probably going to put the head in a tub of solvent. Sometimes, you need to run a wire in to break the gunk free.

 

[Eric M]

make sure they pull the oil passage plugs at the end of the heads and flush out the oil passages. The PAX side head is at the end of oil path and is the one that gets plugged. It should be no cost since they are probably going to put the head in a tub of solvent. Sometimes, you need to run a wire in to break the gunk free.

Excellent suggestion. I will call them, although I assume they will do this as they return the heads looking like new. Thanks.

 

[Eric M]

Hamfisted, just wondering if you bolted on the exhaust manifolds before dropping the heads in. Seems like the easiest way to go...from my vantage point of limited knowledge.​

 

[Hamfisted]

Yes. I used stainless manifold studs and nuts and a copper anti-seize on the threads, and torque them to spec.


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[kens2003FordExpy]

Yes . May take a little wiggling but it just pulls up and free.

The tranny tube you can remove the bolt ( 19mm ? ), and push the tube away from the head and have enough room.
You don't necessarily need to fully remove it. But the oil tube has to come out.





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@Eric M its a PIA for sure. You gotta have all the stuff out of the way to get it off. Yeah you can either have someone hold the heater hoses out of the way, or remove them. They are a weak point and will eventually leak and leave you somewhere, so consider replacing while you are at it. For the AC crap in the way, just loosen the accumulator (that small shiny metal device) from the firewall and it will give you enough play in the lines to make it happen. Also, remove the plastic inner fender skirt (bunch of 7mm bolts and a few pushpins) and unbolt the transmission dipstick tube. You cant pull the RH valve cover without unbolting the dipstick tube.

I did mine without removing or loosening my tyranny dipstick...but I did manage to break a bottom bolt installing the valve cover.. I need to find a diagram that shows the location of each bolt..

 

[Hamfisted]

I did mine without removing or loosening my tyranny dipstick...but I did manage to break a bottom bolt installing the valve cover.. I need to find a diagram that shows the location of each bolt..

Your valve cover is a great diagram for where each bolt goes...

Your Ford dealership still stocks the bolts. p/n XL3Z-6C519-CA = Hex Head Bolt / Grommet combo
W705644-S437 = Stud Bolt
2C2Z-6C518-AA = Sleeved Grommet











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