5.4L Triton timing set, replace oil pump?

[07navi]

J EX 07 when it gets frustrating take a break and maybe try a different approach. That’s worked for me in the past to get over hurdles. Hang in there....at least you’re not a *****! Lol!

Ya, most guys that age wouldn't even tackle it.

 

[07navi]

I’m throwing in the towel for the day...yet again the common knowledge on the web is incorrect. The passenger side valve cover is MUCH easier to remove. Simply take out the battery box. I’ve fought with the drivers side for 2+ hours to no success so I’m calling it a day. Drivers side is much more difficult. I found this interesting since EVERYONE claims the opposite. Totally false. You can easily access every fasteners on the pass side through the wheel well, no such luck in drivers with steering shaft and extra ABS equipment.

Next truck is a Chevrolet Suburban, done with Fords anti-service bullsh*t.

Ouch, and then you will be cussing out GM.

 

[07navi]

Decided pulling the cams is the best approach. I’m glad I can do so, me never having been this far in didn’t know if pulling cams would create issues with followers dropping retainers but it apparently doesn’t. Thank the lord lol. It’s easy to do research outside but once the Ford Gods are staring you right in the face for the first time it’s definitely a different experience!!

Just remember thousands of Ford mechanics started out like this. I used to work on cars all night in the rain in my backyard and then the customers would ***** at me for not having it done yet...……..

 

[JExpedition07]

Drivers side opened up valve train looks great just like passenger side. Tomorrow pulling both cams and then can replace rocker arms and get new baseline on timing.

 

[07navi]

Drivers side opened up valve train looks great just like passenger side. Tomorrow pulling both cams and then can replace rocker arms and get new baseline on timing.

View attachment 35562

Maybe clean the VCT solenoids too. Now you can check all your rollers for wear.

 

[Boostedbus]

When I was a carpenter we cussed out the architects and when I was a mechanic it was the engineers and they go by what looks good on paper but few if any ever worked in the field.

Yeah I like when the architects have verify in field on their measurements. In other words “I think this is right and should work”......and if it doesn’t that means it’s on me to make it work and look right somehow.

 

[07navi]

Don't forget to push on the follower with your finger so you don't lose your valve stem keepers. Just a precaution since they won't come out unless the valve binds in the guide or gets hung up, (not going to happen anyway). We used to remove them by putting a socket over the valve retainer and hitting it with a hammer and the weight of the valve kept it from moving at the same speed as the retainer.

 

[JExpedition07]

New tensioners, arms, and guides are all in....should be able to maneuver chains and time it and then pull grenade pins on tensioners after its set up. Torque specs are 216 inch pounds for new Ford tensioners and 89 inch pounds for new Ford guides. I’d recommend pulling out the torque wrench when you are dealing with plastic with metal washers.

 

[JExpedition07]

Going to hold off pulling cams, sky is looking iffy right now it’s gonna rain shortly

 

[JExpedition07]

Got both cams out and all rockers before the rain hit. Not one bad rocker arm!!! The 3rd one back just had dust on it. All spin free and show no scars or wear. Cam caps all in good condition with no nail catching scratches. Goes to show you should get in there and fix it ASAP when the startup rattle shows itself like me. You’ll save yourself a lot of time without pulling the oil pan and save your engine from having metal floating around.

 

[07navi]

Got both cams out and all rockers before the rain hit. Not one bad rocker arm!!! The 3rd one back just had dust on it. All spin free and show no scars or wear. Cam caps all in good condition with no nail catching scratches. Goes to show you should get in there and fix it ASAP when the startup rattle shows itself like me. You’ll save yourself a lot of time without pulling the oil pan and save your engine from having metal floating around.

That's why everyone needs a real oil gauge (IDK if you have one). If both tensioners leak you probably won't have enough pressure but if one leaks enough to cause a 2-3 second startup rattle you can still drive it depending on what the gauge says.

 

[JExpedition07]

Does anyone know the timing procedure from scratch or have access to a Ford workshop manual? FordTechMakuloco’s video overlooks a lot. He does not tell you where to position cams and only goes over crank sprocket....not helpful for my situation. I’m not able to locate the procedure so I assume I may need to download the Ford workshop manual for this engine.

 

[JExpedition07]

That's why everyone needs a real oil gauge (IDK if you have one). If both tensioners leak you probably won't have enough pressure but if one leaks enough to cause a 2-3 second startup rattle you can still drive it depending on what the gauge says.

I don’t. No interest in installing an aftermarket gauge as it won’t look good. With a brand new oil pump and chain tensioners/guides I should be good on oil pressure....even the old pump seems it was doing it’s job well.

 

[07navi]

I don’t. No interest in installing an aftermarket gauge as it won’t look good. With a brand new oil pump and chain tensioners/guides I should be good on oil pressure....even the old pump seems it was doing it’s job well.

It's really nice to have one. Mine will be all black with just white letters and will go under the dash above my legs. Some people are putting them inside the console where the coin holder is, are you could just put one under the hood. I will be doing a write-up with pictures in a couple weeks. Total cost will be about $20. I don't believe all this stuff about the stock pump cover flexing and losing pressure (maybe 2 pounds at 5000 rpm.....lol) They will say anything to sell something and it's usually something you can't prove. China is good at making claims but making sure there is no name or number anywhere on the item.

 

[JExpedition07]

Found a useful thread on F-150 forum

“Remember that the crank doesn't care if you are on the compression or exhaust stroke... only the cam cares. So long as you align one dark link on each chain with the mark on the crank gear and the other dark link with the L or R (depending on the respective side of the engine) on the phaser, you will be in time. Note that on this engine, when you complete enough revolutions for the dark links to align with the crank gear mark again, they will not line up with the phasers. IIRC, it was some 38 revolutions of the engine before the dark links line back up with both the crank and the phasers at the same time. As long as you start with crank and phaser marks aligned with the dark links, you will be ok.”

 

[07navi]

Found a useful thread on F-150 forum

“Remember that the crank doesn't care if you are on the compression or exhaust stroke... only the cam cares. So long as you align one dark link on each chain with the mark on the crank gear and the other dark link with the L or R (depending on the respective side of the engine) on the phaser, you will be in time. Note that on this engine, when you complete enough revolutions for the dark links to align with the crank gear mark again, they will not line up with the phasers. IIRC, it was some 38 revolutions of the engine before the dark links line back up with both the crank and the phasers at the same time. As long as you start with crank and phaser marks aligned with the dark links, you will be ok.”

I read that before. It's really not that hard and just a matter of lining marks up plus you can always take the plugs out and crank it by hand before you start it to check for valves hitting...….we will have a drum roll for you.

 

[JExpedition07]

Here is how I got it done, your crank timing mark (little dot) is set at 6 o’clock and the single mark on the chains is put to that dot. The chain determines the cams position for you. Left hand side R is face up and right hand side L is face up and you put the two marks around the arrow. Very easy once you get to doing it.

 

[JExpedition07]

Ok so my engine will not time and I’m not sure why. My camphasers are messed up or something, my truck will be sending valves through the pistons following the factory procedure and Makulocos videos. At this point I’m wondering if I should purchase new cams or phasers....it won’t line up as the manual wants. Can anyone point out to me what is wrong or broken on my engine? It’s clearly totally off. Both single marked links at crank timing mark and then the double marks over their respective L and R (R on pass, L on driver)......yeah except that this will send a valve to kiss a piston. Great. Any help appreciated. Pics to follow.

 

[JExpedition07]

How it’s supposed to be (look at phasers).

 

[sjwelds]

Three tines up/ down look not the same as the drawing...not sure how that can be...