stamp11127
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Which vent are you calling the front vent? The vents in the dash are the defrost, left driver, center and right passenger. Your temp readings indicate you have a air distribution problem. Try the different modes (defrost, floor, vent). If it doesn't change you may have a vacuum problem to the EATC. The default is the defrost when you have a vac leak.
Your temp readings - no way in hell you are getting those high temps at the accumulator. The ir gun is suspect. You can't get 37.8 from the front vent and have refrigerant at 109 degrees.
Read your body temp with it - should be 98.6
(Hold off on this right now, but here are the steps)
To Flush:
All the components need to be opened so the flush can be shot in one line and allowed to drain and evaporate from the other. We use a shop rag on the line that exits to avoid blowing that crap everywhere.
I would even go as far to install new o-rings since you are not supposed to reuse them. The only components that should be removed is the compressor, txv and front orifice tube.
Drain the oil from the compressor on the bench, add some, spin the compressor over to mix the good with the bad. Drain the mixture & repeat one more time.
Coat all o-rings with a little bit of PAG oil before installing.
Once you are ready to button it up add oil as follows:
Front evap - 1 oz
Rear evap - 1 oz
Condenser - 1 oz
Lines to the rear -1 oz
Accumulator - 1 oz (trash you current one)
Compressor - 4 oz (give it time to fill)
This will give you a total of 9 oz ( 2 oz short of factory spec)
If you haven't changed the fan clutch I'd change that also. It would be 20 years on the original. If it isn't shot now it will be soon.
Hose off the radiator and condenser once everything is back together.
To those that are following this thread remember this. Using sealer will mean flushing the system down the road.
Evacuation:
Since the system has been open to moisture, it will be loaded with it. The longer you can vacuum the better. You must achieve at least -29 for it to boil off the water vapor and be vented by the pump. I would go a total of 4 hrs in 30 minute intervals with time in between to let the pump cool off. If the gauge set shows it doesn't maintain vac in the pauses or it doesn't reach that deep vacuum, you have a leak. R134a is very sensitive to the presence of moisture.
Take your time, do it right and you only do it once!
Your temp readings - no way in hell you are getting those high temps at the accumulator. The ir gun is suspect. You can't get 37.8 from the front vent and have refrigerant at 109 degrees.
Read your body temp with it - should be 98.6
(Hold off on this right now, but here are the steps)
To Flush:
All the components need to be opened so the flush can be shot in one line and allowed to drain and evaporate from the other. We use a shop rag on the line that exits to avoid blowing that crap everywhere.
I would even go as far to install new o-rings since you are not supposed to reuse them. The only components that should be removed is the compressor, txv and front orifice tube.
Drain the oil from the compressor on the bench, add some, spin the compressor over to mix the good with the bad. Drain the mixture & repeat one more time.
Coat all o-rings with a little bit of PAG oil before installing.
Once you are ready to button it up add oil as follows:
Front evap - 1 oz
Rear evap - 1 oz
Condenser - 1 oz
Lines to the rear -1 oz
Accumulator - 1 oz (trash you current one)
Compressor - 4 oz (give it time to fill)
This will give you a total of 9 oz ( 2 oz short of factory spec)
If you haven't changed the fan clutch I'd change that also. It would be 20 years on the original. If it isn't shot now it will be soon.
Hose off the radiator and condenser once everything is back together.
To those that are following this thread remember this. Using sealer will mean flushing the system down the road.
Evacuation:
Since the system has been open to moisture, it will be loaded with it. The longer you can vacuum the better. You must achieve at least -29 for it to boil off the water vapor and be vented by the pump. I would go a total of 4 hrs in 30 minute intervals with time in between to let the pump cool off. If the gauge set shows it doesn't maintain vac in the pauses or it doesn't reach that deep vacuum, you have a leak. R134a is very sensitive to the presence of moisture.
Take your time, do it right and you only do it once!
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