My 2014 Expedition has the power running boards stuck out and I want them functioning. The info center gives me the 3 options, <auto> <on> <off> but won't toggle through them when I press the reset like the manual says. Since they are stuck out, I can't get underneath the truck to look at the motors. Could the power cord be disconnected from the running board motor and that's why the computer does not recognize they are there?
Auto running boards
- Thread starter TRonk
- Start date
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maxxplatinum9137
Well-Known Member
Crawl under from the front or rear and find out. Or jack the front or rear of the truck up to make more room @TRonk
Jamo
Full Access Members
Lots of info and videos on previous threads on this. Have you tried a search? I have a '14 EL LTD with the same problem. Once spring hits, I plan on rehabbing them. I hope...
Can you hear the motors trying to run? If not they may be toast. There is a connector near the motor you can check. My guess though the motors and or hinges are shot. You need to lubricate the hinges often. You can buy replacement motors off eBay that have the front hinge attached. If you have a Long there is a bar that connects the rear hinge to the front hinge/motor. I found that you can do without the bar. just zip tie it out of the way. I have one rear hinge on the drivers side that is still a little notchy. I put, of all things, trampoline springs attached to the Frame and running board which gives it the necessary incentive to retract. But most importantly keep the hinges clean and lubricated.
Got underneath and they are not unplugged. Went to the probably more obvious fuse panel. The 40a fuse that should be there was gone...got o e and plugged it in. Now I have power to them and you can hear/feel the motor engage, but no movement. I'll try a degreaser next on the joints, it's too cold to power wash like they say.
2013Tuxedo
Active Member
@TRonk @Jamo
My driver side auto running board on my 2013 was trying to come back up and encountering some sort of resistance and would go back down so I went to a heated do-it-yourself car wash with some WD-40 in the "Big Blast" size and some Liquid Wrench Silicone Spray and hit the running boards in the down position with the soap spray and then full blast with the power washer for a few minutes, then a very liberal dose of WD-40 to get the water out of everywhere, and then an equally liberal application of silicone spray everywhere I thought might help motion, did the passenger side too of course. Used a rag to wipe the silicone off the foot treads and drove out, it was 19 degrees F that day, no problems with the driver's side and no freeze-ups on either, been 7 weeks now.
EDIT: I should add that the driver side would go up if my foot helped it along, so whatever it was wasn't serious, once you have the boards lubed you should try some manual persuasion after hitting the switch/opening & closing the doors.
My driver side auto running board on my 2013 was trying to come back up and encountering some sort of resistance and would go back down so I went to a heated do-it-yourself car wash with some WD-40 in the "Big Blast" size and some Liquid Wrench Silicone Spray and hit the running boards in the down position with the soap spray and then full blast with the power washer for a few minutes, then a very liberal dose of WD-40 to get the water out of everywhere, and then an equally liberal application of silicone spray everywhere I thought might help motion, did the passenger side too of course. Used a rag to wipe the silicone off the foot treads and drove out, it was 19 degrees F that day, no problems with the driver's side and no freeze-ups on either, been 7 weeks now.
EDIT: I should add that the driver side would go up if my foot helped it along, so whatever it was wasn't serious, once you have the boards lubed you should try some manual persuasion after hitting the switch/opening & closing the doors.
Pretty much what 2013Tuxedo said. Mine did the same thing....first one was replaced under warranty but as the dealership wanted close to $2000 to replace the second one, did a little checking including buying a new motor off of Amazon. Turned out thoroughly cleaning the hinges at the carwash then a couple of days of really soaking all the pivot points with penetrating oil (day one just soaking them) and assisting the lift day two got things working smoothly again. DON'T skimp on the penetrating oil - I went through two full cans of this stuff and half a can of penetrating silicone lubricant. You really need to have the oil running off of the hinges. Do this on concrete and have some sort of container to catch the run-off. Unless your motor is truly dead (no sound, no movement) or otherwise damaged, this works really well (mine was frozen up at 140,000 miles, a third of which were winter miles in CO using mag chloride on the roads). If it worked on that, pretty sure it'll take care of yours. Be patient.....
SteveMax15
Member
I have a couple items of note for all here.
1. WD-40 is a solvent, not a lubricant. Cleaning and lubricating the moving parts is the right solution but I would expect WD-40 to fail you after the first drive in the rain. I use "garage door lubricant" spray on my 2015. It runs into the cracks and crevices like WD-40 and should persist better. I would also consider other quality spray lubes.
2. You cannot change the step settings while in Drive. Engine on and car in park, then you should be able to force the step in and out in settings.
1. WD-40 is a solvent, not a lubricant. Cleaning and lubricating the moving parts is the right solution but I would expect WD-40 to fail you after the first drive in the rain. I use "garage door lubricant" spray on my 2015. It runs into the cracks and crevices like WD-40 and should persist better. I would also consider other quality spray lubes.
2. You cannot change the step settings while in Drive. Engine on and car in park, then you should be able to force the step in and out in settings.
