I went Switch-Pro. If you get it let us know how it works out.
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LOW profile rooftop rack
- Thread starter Dakota4ce
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I went Switch-Pro. If you get it let us know how it works out.
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Tys expedition
Well-Known Member
id love to see your switch pro install photos when you get it done. im also looking to go arb style rack. im planning to take my bars stock bars off and make some feet that match the factory holes. but haven't started down this rabbit hole yet. after my first trip in the expi i know i need a roof rack. i have an arb on my 4runner that I've really liked so i think ill go that route again. im thinking something along the touring line
I ordered one of these mounts to see if I can modify it to hold the controller. I am torn where to put it. I have also seen a mount for the Raptor that uses the sunglass holder, but I think the Expys are different than the F-150’s with the baby mirror.
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https://www.gobiracks.com/product/g-wagon-stealth-rack/
I'd be interested to see how this spaced out on top of an expy/nav. It's 88 x 54 so seems like decent dimensions to possibly fit. Would have to address the mounting feet.
I'd be interested to see how this spaced out on top of an expy/nav. It's 88 x 54 so seems like decent dimensions to possibly fit. Would have to address the mounting feet.
So I got a good start on my roof wiring project. I have had a few ask about the Switch-Pros. The original pre wired switch was the Spod. It uses relays and fuses but had everything was pre wired. Mainly for Jeeps. The SP has a small panel with 8 switches and one control wire. It is all solid state. No relays or fuses. You have 4-20 amp and 4-35 amp circuits. You can actually program the fuse settings, delay, on/off, momentary, dim,strobe, flash or even combine one button to turn everything on. It also has 2 trigger wires for high beams, revere signal or what ever you can dream off. It’s Bluetooth and you program and can control the lights from your phone. It runs about $550.00 at any distributor. So it is a good bang for your money. If I was to do it again I would try the Spod Bantam with the touch screen controller. It is now solid state as well but a lot more money. The box is huge compared to the SP. But it has a place to land all the ground cables and wires. The SP just had wires you splice into and ground to the frame.
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I bought the SDHQ F-150 Switch-Pros under hood mount to hold the control module. It was not a perfect fit. I had to put a small bend in the plate to catch the fender mounting location. The firewall is the same but the fender is different. No big deal. I just forced it in and got all the bolts started then sucked it down.
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I ran 2-4 wire 12AWG to the roof. I went across the engine compartment to the drivers side and fallowed the trailer brake wires to the back of the vehicle. One loom holds both the power cables. The other holds the control wire and A-pillar light wires.
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There is a gap between the tail light and bumper cover. I ran the wires up through the gap and behind the weather stripping. There wasn’t enough room for both wires to be ran together at the bottom of the opening. I separated them until I was past the trim piece mount and past the lift ram for the tailgate. I put a bend in the cables and sheath on them as they left the tailgate. There is a split in the rubber piece at the top. The tailgate opens and closes fine and this does not affect the main tailgate seal. I left plenty of slack so the cable moves with the tailgate.
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Years ago I invested in a complete Weather Pack Kit. It’s so nice and convenient to make your own plugs. I was going to make a couple of plugs so I can take the rack off with all the lights still wired. I couldn’t find a good ground or even a place it is easily accessible on the roof. I used 2 of the wires for ground straight from the battery and ended up putting a trailer wiring box on the roof. This may be temporary. Once I get all the lights how I want them on the roof I may still do a plug but the ground will still be an issue.
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