juan214
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Going to go crank it again see what happens. Started right up no issues, no smoke, battery charging 14.64 volts
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That was one of my questions on one of the earlier posts. They must be putting more than 12 volts or more amps to the starter (Rich would probably know better). Just like using two batteries in a series for more amps. When they test it must be jumping across the connections to make contact like an arc.But why did it crank Everytime at the parts store? Shouldn't it have done just the click? Told you it would end up simple/stupid. They always are. Have to remember this one.
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It was only taken out twice. glad I checked it before the second install. It wasn't a loose connection, it was tight I couldn't even remove the nut there must have not been enough contact I retightened and it made contact.What is really sad is the number of times the starter was removed and the connections were not checked.
Loose connections will usually smoke when large amounts of current are passed through them.
The process of removing the starter may have moved the connection enough to work when tested.
I wish, electrical parts and installed part are not returnable around here.Now you know why I said can you bring a starter home, and return it if it doesn't work. It only took 75 posts. I feel like I need a cigarette now, and I don't smoke!
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Its the ring terminal connection or the stud/nut not making contact. I cranked to get the split washer to bite in more.Since you state the brush lead that connects to the lower solenoid stud was tight, the problem may be in the wire, ring terminal connection or connection to the brushes/holder inside the starter.
"You ain't out of the woods yet Bubba"