rosario1991
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I always keep few things in mind while going to buy something. It's quality, cost and reliability.
What to look for when buying a gen 1 expy
- Thread starter JUST4FUN
- Start date
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reece146
Full Access Members
I think the tried and true method of dealing with a sagging butt when towing is combination of weight distributing bars and/or aftermarket air bags in the rear coils.
whitelightning99
Full Access Members
I may have missed the comment about a Blank screen on the factory radio mine was blank but i fix it . Also not sure if it was mention bad fuel pump
seawalkersee
Member
Third brake light on mine cracked, Broken LCAs, Rear window struts, Pass side HG, Rust. I still have the intermittent odometer light (anyone have a link to fixing that?) and I'm sure a few other things. But for 200K and $800 bux, I couldn't go wrong. And I get better than 16 MPG in the summer.
SWS
SWS
Bedrck47
Full Access Members
There is a very good video on youtube about fixing the odometer light problem Pay attention to the part about removeing the light switch Don't force it
98eb5.4
Full Access Members
josephbourd
Member
Vertical crack running down right side of radiator . This can cause overheating leading to head gasket leak and eventually melted catalytic convetrers .
02Sexpedition
Well-Known Member
What is that tube on the axle supposed to go to? Did you ever find out? I just noticed mine dangling when I was changing my fuel pump. I found some weird little cap where I found it dangling and put the cap over the tube. I assumed it was some type of filler tube or something. I'm definitely confused about it.
Will Randolph
Member
All the bushings, ball joints, steering shaft, shocks, and sway bar links. Great off road vehicle, but feels like you’re floating on the highway and can easily over react, and with touchy Ford steering that is a combo I don’t like.
Nbland384
New Member
Make sure there isn't a cel or a rough idle.
Rob_V
Member
I didnt read all of the posts but i have two 1st gen expeditions 2000 EB 160K and 1997 XLT 170K. If fluids were maintained these 2 valve engines will run forever. . I am not trained mechanic but can turn a wrench and have access to youtube, tons of F150 and Exp videos from this generation. Here is my list of what i have done: The PVC connection on back of throttle body leaked, plastic intake changed for lean codes and coolant crossover leak. One front hub on 97 (salt side or passenger side) ball joints, sway links, radiator plastic tank cracked, brake lines rusted especially rear crossover, rear trailing arms rusted away, sloppy gear shift bushings, door lock actuators suck, coil packs when bad, (#7 sucks) spark plugs at 100k, DPFE sensor. If you have to bring to a mechanic i would say no, but these things so eay to fix.
i’m ready to sell mine I have 168,000 miles and replaced a whole bunch of stuff in the past year. I added it up I spent 2100 in the past year fixing it. i’m going to list it for 2500 and would be happy getting the 2100 back. If it doesn’t sell I’ll drive it for another 30,000 miles LOL
JamaicaJoe
Full Access Members
The rear passenger door actuators stop working because the 1/4 inch pop rivets get sheared off. An easy fix. Whatever you do, don't remove the actuators from the spring metal saddle (U clamp thingy). You will regret the effort required to put back. Carefully drill out the old rivets and replace with new ones.
If you replace COP s and or plugs, always replace the rubber boot and electrode spring. In fact, those two cheap parts alone will fix a misfire code. Don't expect to get more than 45K miles on the spark plugs. The 100K claim by Ford is silly.
Your steering shaft may wear out and kill you. In fact, any of the stock the rod ends may fail and kill you. Don't ignore steering problems.
Tie rod ends and ball joints "lifetime lubrication" is fictitious. Ford sent me urgent notices to inspect at 15K intervals. Make sure new ones have Zerk fittings and keep them greased.
The odometer failure is a simple solder job. Check YouTube.
Check your brakes for dragging calipers. The pistons are made of some benefits type plastic. Replace calipers and rubber hoses at 80K.
Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
If you replace COP s and or plugs, always replace the rubber boot and electrode spring. In fact, those two cheap parts alone will fix a misfire code. Don't expect to get more than 45K miles on the spark plugs. The 100K claim by Ford is silly.
Your steering shaft may wear out and kill you. In fact, any of the stock the rod ends may fail and kill you. Don't ignore steering problems.
Tie rod ends and ball joints "lifetime lubrication" is fictitious. Ford sent me urgent notices to inspect at 15K intervals. Make sure new ones have Zerk fittings and keep them greased.
The odometer failure is a simple solder job. Check YouTube.
Check your brakes for dragging calipers. The pistons are made of some benefits type plastic. Replace calipers and rubber hoses at 80K.
Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
mustpaike
Member
Having owned a 1997 5.4 EB 4x4 with the 3.73 for 7 years now, I would say the biggest issue in areas that get winter and salt is rust. Problem areas on mine have been
*bottom edges of doors, especially the driver's door which gets most use.
*door sills
*AC condenser
*EGR pipe
*all 4 control arms
*the nose (seriously, had some unrelated engine trouble and the mechanic found out that the nose of the truck had not been connected to the frame for some time).
*oil filter and the oil filter relocation kit (the tow package equipped models have the oil filter relocated to behind the front bumper on the driver's side)
Most of the other issues have already been covered by others. Such as:
*The air ride is worthless, but a cheap Monroe conversion kit to coil-overs has held up surprisingly well on mine.
*Parking brake gets stuck from disuse. Or starts to drag. The only outwardly sign you may have of the latter is slightly decreased gas mileage.
*rear hatch and lift glass struts get tired and saggy
*rear vent window motors get stuck
*exhaust tick from warped headers (I had mine replaced with shorty headers. Yes, was expensive, but the NPI motor needs that slight extra torque).
*if the previous owner has not been keeping maintenance records then I would also get a full fluid change for everything including axles and the transfer case, a set of new platinum spark plugs, a set of new COPs, and 4 new O2 sensors.
*dragging rear calipers
*shifter OD button breaking off.
*shifter linkage rod breaking in half
* a persistent EGR issue is usually a DPFE sensor issue
*oil pressure dial and the warning light do not show any issue until most of your oil is gone, which is too bad, because the timing chains are no longer lubricated when only half is gone (learned that the hard way), so do check the level on a regular basis.
*if your front axle takes it's sweet time to engage in slippery conditions, but your ABS is fine, check the rear WSS on the differential, it may be faulty.
There are also some off-road related issues, such as:
*CV shaft boots come loose or break easily on mine.
*should you ever get your master cylinder brake lines changed from copper to steel, make sure they put in a spiral of maybe 5-6 turns to soak up vibration. My brakes started leaking from the master cylinder fitting three times before they figured it out.
Mine got about 13.5mpg on regular factory-sized AT tires. This dropped to 11.8 on 33" mud tires. Recently I have been driving like an old person, so it has gone up to 12.5. The upside of 33" mud tires is that it requires no lift, makes the steering feel perfectly weighted and on pavement it goes as if on rails (my record is about 1.5 miles of staying within lane at 40mph without me touching the wheel at all).
*bottom edges of doors, especially the driver's door which gets most use.
*door sills
*AC condenser
*EGR pipe
*all 4 control arms
*the nose (seriously, had some unrelated engine trouble and the mechanic found out that the nose of the truck had not been connected to the frame for some time).
*oil filter and the oil filter relocation kit (the tow package equipped models have the oil filter relocated to behind the front bumper on the driver's side)
Most of the other issues have already been covered by others. Such as:
*The air ride is worthless, but a cheap Monroe conversion kit to coil-overs has held up surprisingly well on mine.
*Parking brake gets stuck from disuse. Or starts to drag. The only outwardly sign you may have of the latter is slightly decreased gas mileage.
*rear hatch and lift glass struts get tired and saggy
*rear vent window motors get stuck
*exhaust tick from warped headers (I had mine replaced with shorty headers. Yes, was expensive, but the NPI motor needs that slight extra torque).
*if the previous owner has not been keeping maintenance records then I would also get a full fluid change for everything including axles and the transfer case, a set of new platinum spark plugs, a set of new COPs, and 4 new O2 sensors.
*dragging rear calipers
*shifter OD button breaking off.
*shifter linkage rod breaking in half
* a persistent EGR issue is usually a DPFE sensor issue
*oil pressure dial and the warning light do not show any issue until most of your oil is gone, which is too bad, because the timing chains are no longer lubricated when only half is gone (learned that the hard way), so do check the level on a regular basis.
*if your front axle takes it's sweet time to engage in slippery conditions, but your ABS is fine, check the rear WSS on the differential, it may be faulty.
There are also some off-road related issues, such as:
*CV shaft boots come loose or break easily on mine.
*should you ever get your master cylinder brake lines changed from copper to steel, make sure they put in a spiral of maybe 5-6 turns to soak up vibration. My brakes started leaking from the master cylinder fitting three times before they figured it out.
Mine got about 13.5mpg on regular factory-sized AT tires. This dropped to 11.8 on 33" mud tires. Recently I have been driving like an old person, so it has gone up to 12.5. The upside of 33" mud tires is that it requires no lift, makes the steering feel perfectly weighted and on pavement it goes as if on rails (my record is about 1.5 miles of staying within lane at 40mph without me touching the wheel at all).
Bob Dobalena
Member
Several Things to watch out for:
1. limp mode.
2. chain slap the plastic guides are probably in the oil pan
3. Air bag system is prone to failure (expensive fix) Struts and Shocks take away from that ride.
4. TCM finding a useable one is a search for a needle in a haystack, the aftermarket ones are garbage.
1. limp mode.
2. chain slap the plastic guides are probably in the oil pan
3. Air bag system is prone to failure (expensive fix) Struts and Shocks take away from that ride.
4. TCM finding a useable one is a search for a needle in a haystack, the aftermarket ones are garbage.
Last edited:
JamaicaJoe
Full Access Members
I assume by "nose" you are talking about the bottom of the radiator support which holds not only the radiator, much of the fascia.
How did you fix this and what was cost for parts and labor?
mustpaike
Member
By nose, I meant the underside body panels forwards from the fire wall. Both the bottom of the radiator support, as well as the points that mount the body to the frame were gone (I had a really good view while the engine and trans were out).
In the end, the front fenders and the hood was reused, but everything else under that was replaced. The parts were €950 (including shipping) + an uncertain amount for cutting the old bits off and welding the new parts in place. I honestly cannot tell you the specific price of this part of the work, as it was all done in one big go and the total for this and engine replacement was €5000 parts and labor, (including the stated €950 mentioned above), not including a spare engine.
A `98 showed up on my auto trader search the other day. Dealer details said Check Engine light on & CEL... Dealer refused to pull the code so I could know what it was. It had rust in typical places, door bottoms, & fenders. It was marked down a bunch, but since I'm in Denver, and it's in Iowa, the lack of info made it a no sale for me.
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